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Identifying brake rotors and brake systems

Previous owner may have updated the rotors. He mentioned that the fronts are Brembo blanks but isn't sure what the backs are.

Would the rotors have some marking on them if they are Brembos or perhaps some other brand of rotor?

Does anything about the braking setup look not stock besides the stainless steel brake lines? Just want to be sure before I start ordering up rotors (or having them turned) and pads?

Thanks

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citymunky

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Sep 22, 2010
Messages
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Location
Chesapeake, VA
Brakes look stock. The rotors are thick so that is a good sign. It might have Brembo stamped on the side/lip where the vent holes are.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
My brembo blanks (no drilling/slotting) had brembo written right where he mentioned.
Get em cut, but if there are seriously warped much (ie. they look like they have two sides, one half cuts and one half doesn't on the first pass), junk and buy new or you'll be back in short order to do this anyways. I'm not a fan of cutting other than for corrosion and slight re-truing. I we all had the choice, we'd straight up replace obviously.
 
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I'll try to take a wire brush to the area that you guys mentioned (the lip I think) due to all of the surface rust in that area.

Interesting you mention getting them cut. I usually sand my rotors down with 120 grit (on lesser vehicles). Then I read that most of the evo guys don't bother cutting or replacing them.

I figure that I will just sand them down and put new pads on.

Thoughts?
 
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FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
3M brown pad on a die grinder. Saved my rotors many years running now. I buff the whole rotor of any corrosion, just about every spring. It doesn't take off any real metal which could lead to surface thickness variation, but gets rid of rust quite well. Also the 3M green discs work, but save them for thick rust,as, they can take off metal and leave very deep scratches. Even if you cannot detect a warp, no rotor is 100% true after curing and being heat cycled many times. This is all just food for thought, as it is always what the OP is most comfortable doing.
 
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