The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Lifting the head off.

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
Original HG engine and the head needs to come off. She seems really stuck on. Any tips on a safe way to remove it?
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
If youve got all the bolt out and brackets disconnected as you should, it'll come off. Pull like a MAN! Hehe...

-Jake
 

460GVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
87
Location
tacoma, wa
use handle of large screw driver or engine hoist handle and put it through cam gears and/or with thermostat housing use water passageway. Do NOT hit with any device dead blow or anything. There are dowels that prevent and side to side. Watched a buddy blow out a chunk of his head with a dead blow. He said they were "aluminum safe" ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

SouthCaliVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
I don't recommend using the cam gears. there are four spots two on the front & two on the back specifically for popping the head loose. smallish flats opposing one another. you can pry pretty hard on those spots to walk it loose if you need to.

too dark now but I will snap a pic tomorrow if you'd like.

+one on having all the intake & turbo support brackets off first.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on so I can use them as handles....

Don't pry on the gears, just keep wiggling it back and forth, remember there are 10 head bolts. Also if your intake is still attached there is a bracket on the back that needs to be removed, it supports the intake from below. I've forgotten about that before.
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
Quoting Defiant:
Did you remove the bracket/brace under the intake manifold?






No I didn't. Not sure how too either. They really didn't build these cars to work on.

Still have the AC lines and they are in the way. Bout pulled my shoulder out of its socket...
 

Defiant

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
162
Location
Houston, TX
Well, there is your problem!

Put the front of the car up on jack stands, and you should be able to reach it from underneath.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
In the pic the lower part is the single hole, you will either need to sneak up and take the two top bolts out of the plenum, or take the single lower bolt out. I'd opt to try for the intake side bolt, IIRC the lower bolt is tough to get to. I haven't had this piece on for years....
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
I got head off. Thanks

Now, I hope its warped, cause the gasket wasn't blown out or anything.
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
No I haven't, but I cranked the engine over and found coolant and oil in cyl 1. The others were fine.
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Quoting gvr4ever:
They really didn't build these cars to work on.




no offense O.P... but /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 
Last edited:

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
If you end up needing any valve work done let me know. I have all the equipment that I rarely use and would be willing to help out. We are not that far from each other!
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting DynastyLCD:
Quoting gvr4ever:
They really didn't build these cars to work on.




no offense O.P... but /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif



Agreed. These things are cake to work on, IMO.
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
Quoting DynastyLCD:
Quoting gvr4ever:
They really didn't build these cars to work on.




no offense O.P... but /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif



Well, I'm glad you can get a laugh that I struggled with it. I'm not sure why you even bothered posting about it. This is the tech section of the forum, not anything goes.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
Saying that they didn't build these cars to work on isn't exactly a technical fact either. It's just your opinion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Sorry if you had trouble, but I think he was just razzing you. Honestly, if you think these cars are hard to work on, you must not have much experience working on other cars that are much more difficult.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top