The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Parts needed to fix rusty metal brake line?

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
My rear line is rusty, and it finally started leaking. I was curious if anyone knew off hand what fittings and size line I needed to use? I have never did something like this before.

Also, I feel like I should just replace the entire line, without using fittings to tap into the existing line. Does it really matter? Its a car I plan on keeping forever
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
How much work are you looking to go through? If you remove the subframes you can replace the complete line with a new oem if still available. That's your best shot. I'd delete your abs while your at it though. For a temp fix you can "patch" the line with a new section of line commercially bought and use a flare tool to install couplers. Not recommended if your not sure how to do, since brakes are a safety issue. Most shops can do this for around $150-200 pending on the condition of the line further up.
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
ABS is long gone. So I have to remove the rear subframe to do the rear driver side line? My roommate is a mechanic and he is basically doing it with my help. I was just trying to get a better idea, and assemble a shopping list for him.
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Not to sure about the rear frame, but I know the front one will need to be lowered a bit to gain access if your installing a full replacement line. If you call your local mistu dealer they should be able to look up the parts and possibly give you a print out of the routing.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
you can replace the bad section with a new line and compression fittings, i don't rem what size the lines were and to my recollection you don't have to drop the rear sub frame, but i did cut my lines out so i could be wrong. best way to find out is ta get under her.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
You need standard 3/16" line (original is probably metric, but equivalent) with 10 x 1.0 inverted flare metric fittings. I try never to use compression fittings (but I am an engineer), but would rather cut, put on a new fitting and double-flare the end. Then you use a joint to connect the old line to the new one. You size the length of the new line to what you need to replace.

I think you can probably snake the new line up over the crossmember.
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Thank you Iceman. So besides not using compression fittings, you don't see any reason why I should replace the complete line? Most of it is fine, it just rusted by the rear wheel arch

I've been underneath the car. I don't see how either subframe would be a problem. I definitely don't understand how the front subframe would need lowered.
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
As an ASE certified tech I would never use compression fittings in a brake line repair. Double flare only. There is too much risk involved with the braking system. I your line is good further up then just find a good spot where there is no rust a couple inches above the rusted part and cut there. If your buddy doesn't have the double flare tool, then you can rent one from most auto parts stores. You can also buy the line and fittings there as well. Once you get started on it, you'll see that it really isn't a hard job, just make sure your flares are centered and you don't over tighten them and you'll be good as new. If your planning on driving around with salt on the road I recommend putting some paint on the fittings as these will rust over time quicker than the stock line. Not supposed to, but I've seen it.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
No real good reason to replace the complete line, unless you are real scared of flaring lines. Usually you cannot get line long enough unless you buy a coil which you have to flare and add fittings to anyway.

Sometimes you can get bit this way if another part is rusty and you miss it. It will usually fail next when higher pressure is reintroduced to the lines.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
When you are done spray the area with this >> click
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
So I just bought 3 feet on 3/18 with flare fittings already on both ends. I bought a 10x1 connecter, and another flare fitting for the end of the stock metal line. Do I do good? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Sounds about right other than needing the flare tool (perhaps your friend has already).

you shouldn't need a bender as most of the lines can be bent by hand these days.
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Yeah, we have a flare tool and a bender both
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
My Bad, i should have never suggested it, i would neva use them on my car, i replaced every brake line on mine instead. i use compression fittings for a quick fix at work till i get the big job done. i've never personally used it on an automobile but on oil, water & even natural gas lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
No worries. I still appreciate the advice and help.

Honestly, I have given up on my VR4 for awhile. It's junk and I miss my Subaru, so that's where my focus is
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top