I am trying to restore this '91. For some reason the stock FPR is plugged into the wiring harness on the pass side above the trans. It looks like the pigtail on the car side wiring harness is about where the Boost Control Silenoid would be on a DSM. They had vac lines run from the intake and fuel rail all the way to the pass side. This thing some how dropped down and got chewed up by the tire/wheel. Can some one tell me what sensor this pigtail should go to and where the stock FPR goes on a VR4?
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Here is a pict....
transparentdsm
Well-known member
thats where it goes and where it belongs. its supposed to be attached to the MAF canister. unlike a dsm it isnt directly behind the manifold. just get the wiring tightened up and clean and you'll be all good.
Wizardawd
Well-known member
Quoting highpsi4:
I am trying to restore this '91. For some reason the stock FPR is plugged into the wiring harness on the pass side above the trans. It looks like the pigtail on the car side wiring harness is about where the Boost Control Silenoid would be on a DSM. They had vac lines run from the intake and fuel rail all the way to the pass side. This thing some how dropped down and got chewed up by the tire/wheel. Can some one tell me what sensor this pigtail should go to and where the stock FPR goes on a VR4?
BCS goes by the MAS canister, but he mentioned that it was the FPR and they had relocated it to where the BCS would normally go.
It's exactly in the same place as on a DSM. On a bracket right above the brake booster. 3 solenoids in a pack, EGR, Purge and FPR.
Wiz
I am trying to restore this '91. For some reason the stock FPR is plugged into the wiring harness on the pass side above the trans. It looks like the pigtail on the car side wiring harness is about where the Boost Control Silenoid would be on a DSM. They had vac lines run from the intake and fuel rail all the way to the pass side. This thing some how dropped down and got chewed up by the tire/wheel. Can some one tell me what sensor this pigtail should go to and where the stock FPR goes on a VR4?
BCS goes by the MAS canister, but he mentioned that it was the FPR and they had relocated it to where the BCS would normally go.
It's exactly in the same place as on a DSM. On a bracket right above the brake booster. 3 solenoids in a pack, EGR, Purge and FPR.
Wiz
Hey Aaron, how have you been?
Ok, so I am not all that crazy. Why is the FPR mounted on a bracket with a loom for the plug wires? Is that one of those JDM things where the coil pack in mounted on the fire wall?
Ok, so I am not all that crazy. Why is the FPR mounted on a bracket with a loom for the plug wires? Is that one of those JDM things where the coil pack in mounted on the fire wall?
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transparentdsm
Well-known member
Wiz im sorry, but your def wrong. it def is not like that in a vr4, they have the BCS and the FPR on the canister, one on each side of the canister. follow your MAF wiring harness from the maf plug back. there will be two sets of wires with the same end(the one pictured) on both of them. one that is really long wired and one that is short wired, the short wired one is the FPR and the long wired one is the BCS. if you do some searching on it you will find better and more detailed post on this. click to the bottom of this page, the first diagram is for a TEL the second on is for a GVR4 the FPR is on the canister.
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Ok. I am still looking into this transparent, but why does the bracket the FPR is attached to have a wire loom for spark plug wires?
transparentdsm
Well-known member
those are used to hold the 4 vacuum lines that come off the BCS and the FPRS and go back to the throttle body and FPR.
Wizardawd
Well-known member
Guess you're right, I never had that in either of mine. They were removed from both. I just looked at the running GVR4 and saw the missing bracket where they usually go on a 1g. Guess it really didn't make sense why it would be routed over there. My bad.
Good Andy....got another one eh? Whatever happened to the white one?
Wiz
Good Andy....got another one eh? Whatever happened to the white one?
Wiz
Very good. Thank you very much, not I can get it fixed up.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
not a problem glad i could help.
Wiz, i have been working on DSM for over a decade and on the VR-4's for about 4 years now, i have just been lucky enough to have seen a few and owned 1 completely bone stock VR-4 and a hand full of DSM's. A lot of years under these hoods.
Wiz, i have been working on DSM for over a decade and on the VR-4's for about 4 years now, i have just been lucky enough to have seen a few and owned 1 completely bone stock VR-4 and a hand full of DSM's. A lot of years under these hoods.
Wizardawd
Well-known member
DSMs since 96, GVRs just this last year. The minor differences get me. Especially without reference.
Wiz
Wiz
transparentdsm
Well-known member
wow since 96, i was 11. ha. i wish you lived closer i'd love to hang out and pick your brain...
turbowop
Well-known member
People still use the FPR solenoid?
transparentdsm
Well-known member
i had mine in my all stock one.. no reason to remove it.
turbowop
Well-known member
Even in 503, I yoinked it out when I removed all the emissions crap. No reason to leave it, IMO. Especially if the wiring is hosed and requires repair. I would just toss it.
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transparentdsm
Well-known member
your right, there is no real need for it, just as there is no real need for the boost control solenoid. for example in my vr4 now i have almost no vacuum lines and i love it, but if he is going to bring the car back to 100% stock then that is something different and maybe he is trying to do that. he had questions and i was just trying to give him the right answers.
Wizardawd
Well-known member
Same, my fpr is hooked directly to the intake port. The solenoid was mostly just for fuel enrichment purposes both for cold weather and higher altitudes.
Wiz
Wiz
transparentdsm
Well-known member
now that i did not know, Wiz thank you for the little lesson.. i always wondered what they were there for, just never really cared..
toybreaker
iconoclast
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I *believe* the fpr solenoid is actually used to ease hot re-starts and enhance hot re-start driveability.
In areas that use winter/summer blend fuels, there can be problems during the changeover time as the boffins mess with the reed vapor pressure of the fuel.
Matching rvp to the prevailing weather conditions is one of the things that makes a fuel more suited for extreme cold (or hot) operations.
Low outside temperatures means a high rvp fuel just won't want to atomize well on a cold start in a -20* morning. It wants to stay in droplet form and it won't atomise for sh*t.
Back when the world ran on carburetors, this was a big deal.
When they blend a fuel for winter use, they lower the rvp (and fiddle with a few other factors) to make it so it evaporates/atomises easily at low temperatures.
Using a winter blend fuel in hotter temps means it will boil off/percolate in the injectors/rail, leading to all kinds of hiccups on a restart as the vapors don't meter like liquid fuel.
Opening the the fpr solenoid on a hot restart will reference the fpr to ambient barometric pressure, (instead of manifold vaccuum) which will raise the fuel pressure.
This helps smooth out hot restarts, especially during the spring blend changeover and at high altitudes/high ambient temperatures.
Many folks do eliminate the fpr solenoid/attendent vaccuum lines for a cleaner engine bay.
If you live in gentler climes/lower altitudes, you might not even notice any effects from eliminating the fpr solenoid/system
Howsomever every now and then you'll see a thread from one of those folks that lives in area like colorado that has wild temp swings between summer and winter saying "why does my car run like sh*t after I let it sit for ten minutes at the store?"
... ymmv ...
In areas that use winter/summer blend fuels, there can be problems during the changeover time as the boffins mess with the reed vapor pressure of the fuel.
Matching rvp to the prevailing weather conditions is one of the things that makes a fuel more suited for extreme cold (or hot) operations.
Low outside temperatures means a high rvp fuel just won't want to atomize well on a cold start in a -20* morning. It wants to stay in droplet form and it won't atomise for sh*t.
Back when the world ran on carburetors, this was a big deal.
When they blend a fuel for winter use, they lower the rvp (and fiddle with a few other factors) to make it so it evaporates/atomises easily at low temperatures.
Using a winter blend fuel in hotter temps means it will boil off/percolate in the injectors/rail, leading to all kinds of hiccups on a restart as the vapors don't meter like liquid fuel.
Opening the the fpr solenoid on a hot restart will reference the fpr to ambient barometric pressure, (instead of manifold vaccuum) which will raise the fuel pressure.
This helps smooth out hot restarts, especially during the spring blend changeover and at high altitudes/high ambient temperatures.
Many folks do eliminate the fpr solenoid/attendent vaccuum lines for a cleaner engine bay.
If you live in gentler climes/lower altitudes, you might not even notice any effects from eliminating the fpr solenoid/system
Howsomever every now and then you'll see a thread from one of those folks that lives in area like colorado that has wild temp swings between summer and winter saying "why does my car run like sh*t after I let it sit for ten minutes at the store?"
... ymmv ...
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