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Having a Psuedo-Dogbox Built for #108/2k

EMX5636

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Jun 28, 2008
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Bucks County, PA
I just wanted to put up a thread about my upcoming/current trans build for my Galant. I'm sure some of you have heard of Liberty Gear Performance. I decided to bite the bullet and see how their dog-ring modifications and metal enhancements work in a street/track driven GVR4. Price is currently around $750 to modify 1st through 4th gears + whatever Cryo/shotpeening, etc you want on top.

I have a set of gears out currently with them. I have a new 3rd gear on the way, as their magnaflux showed a surface crack on one tooth. They are out of a 90 trans, which from what I have gathered, have a slightly stronger intermediate shaft 3/4 gears and center diff tooth profile. I'm expecting the gears back in about 2 weeks, so I will take some pictures up for those interested.

Then I will be ordering whatever I need to rebuild my Exedy Twin, before getting the trans in the car, for the initial thoughts/opinions on street-ability. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Justin
 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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761
Location
Harwinton, CT
sounds like its gonna be an awesome driveline setup!

with the performance of the dog cut gears, and the twin disc, shifting at 9k shouldn't be any sort of an issue. once you get used to the engagement/disengagement, you'll be alright. or you'll be like me, and you cant drive anything else properly after getting used to a twin disc!

i use a PTT, rebuilt mine over the winter. got both discs, the floater plate, and i was able to kiss the flywheel and the top portion of the pressure plate with a cookie wheel. engages just fine, no slippage or anything.

i suggest biting the bullet, and buying the floater, as it's most succeptable to warpage.

with a stock trans, and the PTT twin disc, my car goes right into gear at 8k like nothing. i could only imagine with something like the Liberty gearset... gonna be nasty.
 

EMX5636

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Bucks County, PA
I've had the Exedy since my car was built for about 3 years now. I love it! Engagement like a 2100/street disc, but holds 500+wtq. I will probably never go back to a big single disk. I will have about $500-550 into both disks, the floater and PP. I will have the flywheel skimmed if need be, so it will essentially be brand new again. I can't wait, as I've always had some high RPM shifting issues into 2nd cause the car spins really bad. Plus with the aluminum rods, it winds up really quick. All excuses for a driver mod I guess, LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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Harwinton, CT
wow, that's a bit much for a rebuild. how much does your pressure plate cost? i think that's the only thing i didn't replace in mine. it only cost me about $230 to do both disc's and the floater.

i think that's by far the best way to describe it - like a 2100 that holds over 500 tq!
 

EMX5636

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I think the retail prices on the disks are around $210 each, the floater plate was $130 and the PP was $120. I get them for a bit cheaper though.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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11,892
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Clarksville TN
Sweet.. I drove a guys Liberty pro shifted mustang years ago. Tremec was taken apart and gear done just like yours. Tremecs have a steel ball and socket shifter no rubber bushing crap like ours. You had to drive the car on the street and be exact and and commited when you shifted. But damn when you get use to it will be nasty. No lift shifts.


If I were you start at the cables and make everything solid. Bearings in the shift cables. Weld the two piece cable mount on the trans solid. Solid bushings or weld on washers to the shifter base and then build a halo around the shifter with adjustable bolts so the shifts aren't over extended. New bushings in the shifter etc.


Here's what I'm talking about
click me

Let us know how it works.
 

EMX5636

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Bucks County, PA
Well, since I used to work at JNZ as their tech, I already have a 1-off shifter assembly similar to the off-the-shelf short shifter. I am intrigued however by shortening the top and raising the entire assembly. Hadn't thought of that. I also have their delrin shifter cable bushings (the roller bearings are a PITA to remove from the arms after a little while). I will be spinning up some aluminum bushings for the shifter base at work, and I already removed all the rubber in the cable mounts on the trans.

I'm even going one step further for short shifting. I'm using a 1990 DSM select arm assembly, so the throws will be shorter already, but I do have to build adjustable stops for it to work correctly, so thanks for the pictures of yours! That looks easier/cleaner than I expected it would.
 

EMX5636

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Jun 28, 2008
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Bucks County, PA
Well a little update. My shafts are shot-peened and had the surface treatment done. The gears should be done as well. I'm waiting for an email back to verify. Hopefully within the next 5-10 days I'll have a box on my doorstep. Then to assemble, with the billet forks and 4-spider. I hope to make a couple good passes before the track closes this year.
 

EMX5636

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Bucks County, PA
Nope. There was a mix up with my 1-2 hub because I'm running an early 89-90 gearset (supposed to be a slightly stronger 3-4 tooth design) but it's a different bearing size and spline count. Downfall to this gearset, is you can't run the double cone second syncro with it (but I don't need syncro's and I have a few spares from trans upgrades for people). I'm hoping to get the revised one next week. Then assembly time.

Unfortunately I'll have to pull my trans apart to pull the billet aluminum BM / Turbotrix shift forks, and I already have an early 89-90 center diff machined for a 4-spider. But it should only be a day or two to swap everything and rebuild my Exedy twin.
 

EMX5636

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I wish. I have another email in with them now. The 4-6 weeks has now been a bit over 3 months (minus the 2 week mix-up that I sort of can take blame for). I haven't forgotten about this thread, and I will update when I hear/receive them.

Sorry guys.
 

Street Surgeon

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Mar 3, 2004
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941
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Omaha, Nebraska
There were some other folks on a forum I frequent and they've had a similar issue, it appears things take FOOOOOOOOOOOOOOREVER to get back from them and you have to ride them the whole time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

EMX5636

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Jun 28, 2008
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Bucks County, PA
Yeah, I was sort of expecting it unfortunately. Which is why I sent out a spare trans so the car wasn't down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

donniekak

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Jan 1, 2009
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surprise az
Quoting EMX5636:
Nope. There was a mix up with my 1-2 hub because I'm running an early 89-90 gearset (supposed to be a slightly stronger 3-4 tooth design) but it's a different bearing size and spline count. Downfall to this gearset, is you can't run the double cone second syncro with it (but I don't need syncro's and I have a few spares from trans upgrades for people). I'm hoping to get the revised one next week. Then assembly time.

Unfortunately I'll have to pull my trans apart to pull the billet aluminum BM / Turbotrix shift forks, and I already have an early 89-90 center diff machined for a 4-spider. But it should only be a day or two to swap everything and rebuild my Exedy twin.


I've got a 90 gearset in my car now with a double synchro 2nd.You can't just drop in the later 2nd gear, and double syncho, it can be machined for it though. It would be nice to have the shifting of dog teeth, but I'd be scared to death my investment would explode everytime I did a 3rd, or 4th gear pull.


IMG_20111226_104516.jpg
 

EMX5636

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Jun 28, 2008
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Bucks County, PA
That actually looks like the late 90 gearset. See how narrow the flat end of the gear is? Check out this link . See how the early 90 has a broader/flatter end profile?

Actually though, you could be correct, it's tough to tell without the 3rd gear intact. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

EMX5636

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Jun 28, 2008
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Location
Bucks County, PA
I know the 89 production gearset I'm using has a smaller bearing and different spline count for the 2nd gear and 1/2 hub and slider. Might be able to be custom machined, but never heard of anyone doing it. Just swap to the 90.5 up stuff.
 
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