ade
Well-known member
are these things that can be turned off through a chip flash, separate module delete or do i have to leave leave it be?
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ac, cruize, abs delete cel's?
- Thread starterade
- Start date
are these things that can be turned off through a chip flash, separate module delete or do i have to leave leave it be?
Not sure about cruise, but ABS or A/C delete should not cause a check engine light. ABS light, yes. You remove the system power fuses for that.
no problems w/ cruise either. Delete all the things!
No chip flashes, it's all mechanical. You'll need a non cruise throttle, an AC spacer, non ABS lines off a 1G and a brake prop valve from a GSX or a 1G can suffice. All the details you need are on the board.
No chip flashes, it's all mechanical. You'll need a non cruise throttle, an AC spacer, non ABS lines off a 1G and a brake prop valve from a GSX or a 1G can suffice. All the details you need are on the board.
ade
Well-known member
What is an ac spacer? & thanks for the replies.
donkeylips
Well-known member
The bracket for your left front halfshaft carrier bearing sits on the A/C compressor bracket on your engine block. When you remove this bracket you use the spacer. MB297732
And unplugging the large connector and removing the control unit for your ABS will turn the ABS light off.
And unplugging the large connector and removing the control unit for your ABS will turn the ABS light off.
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DR1665
Well-known member
AC
Will not cause CEL. Weight reduction is minimal, refrigerant should be evacuated responsibly (not vented to atmosphere), complete removal requires removal of dashboard to get evaporator out, which then requires replacement with *something* if you wish to preserve heater function as it leaves a giant hole in the side of the HVAC system. As was also mentioned, you will need to buy or fabricate the spacer going between the engine block and halfshaft mount. This will also make your car less attractive to a future buyer who isn't looking for a beat-ass, 4-door DSM.
The performance gains associated with AC delete - engine load, weight reductions - are minimal at best. You get 90% of the benefits from simply removing the belt. Unless you're stripping the shell and caging this thing because race car (because you race it more than three or four times a year), you really shouldn't bother.
ABS
Will not cause CEL, but has its own warning light. I want to say the ECU's only involvement in the ABS system is regulating its power supply. ABS light is likely triggered by a separate control box, but I can't say for sure. It's not a question of simply turning it off. You have to either remove or isolate the ABS unit behind the LF headlight.
A couple ways to do this: Take a sawzall to the hard brake lines under your hood. The idea here is to have a T-fitting on each of the lines coming off the master cylinder which then connect to the front and rear brake lines, respectively. Keep in mind, this is ghetto as f***, but it works. Daily drove 195/2000 for about a year like this without a problem - even raced on it out in the desert.
For the record, I've since cut those lines and thrown them away, pending the RIGHT way to do it, which is to source the non-ABS lines and proportioning valve from another vehicle. When the car goes back together, I will either use these bits or swap in a different master cylinder altogether and re-plumb the entire thing from scratch. Good brakes are more important than power.
CRUISE
Will not cause CEL. Disabling cruise is as easy as pulling the little rubber nipple out of your clutch pedal. It's about an inch above the footpad and engages a switch. Without that little rubber deal, CC will not work. (You can also fix your CC by taping or gluing a coin over the hole that plug filled.) Again, this is a mod which will make your car less valuable to anyone looking to buy something more than a "4-door DSM." You will still have the CC controls on your steering column, but they will do nothing. Which is lame if it's not a true race car.
Proper deletion involves yanking out the CC bits over on the passenger side of the firewall under the hood and running a new, non-cruise throttle cable from the pedal to the throttle body.
YMMV
I can understand the ABS delete, as it's an early system subject to failure and an unnecessary complication of the brake system, but the other two are just "mods" I laugh at when I see them lauded as performance modifications. If you're going to keep this car forever and race the ever-loving sh*t out of it, then by all means - go right ahead - but don't expect to one day be able to sell it for more than about $1000 after you've parted it out in your driveway.
Simply put, your car is worth more with AC and CC than without - even if neither actually works. It is easier to fix these systems than to re-install them.
Good luck either way.
Will not cause CEL. Weight reduction is minimal, refrigerant should be evacuated responsibly (not vented to atmosphere), complete removal requires removal of dashboard to get evaporator out, which then requires replacement with *something* if you wish to preserve heater function as it leaves a giant hole in the side of the HVAC system. As was also mentioned, you will need to buy or fabricate the spacer going between the engine block and halfshaft mount. This will also make your car less attractive to a future buyer who isn't looking for a beat-ass, 4-door DSM.
The performance gains associated with AC delete - engine load, weight reductions - are minimal at best. You get 90% of the benefits from simply removing the belt. Unless you're stripping the shell and caging this thing because race car (because you race it more than three or four times a year), you really shouldn't bother.
ABS
Will not cause CEL, but has its own warning light. I want to say the ECU's only involvement in the ABS system is regulating its power supply. ABS light is likely triggered by a separate control box, but I can't say for sure. It's not a question of simply turning it off. You have to either remove or isolate the ABS unit behind the LF headlight.
A couple ways to do this: Take a sawzall to the hard brake lines under your hood. The idea here is to have a T-fitting on each of the lines coming off the master cylinder which then connect to the front and rear brake lines, respectively. Keep in mind, this is ghetto as f***, but it works. Daily drove 195/2000 for about a year like this without a problem - even raced on it out in the desert.
For the record, I've since cut those lines and thrown them away, pending the RIGHT way to do it, which is to source the non-ABS lines and proportioning valve from another vehicle. When the car goes back together, I will either use these bits or swap in a different master cylinder altogether and re-plumb the entire thing from scratch. Good brakes are more important than power.
CRUISE
Will not cause CEL. Disabling cruise is as easy as pulling the little rubber nipple out of your clutch pedal. It's about an inch above the footpad and engages a switch. Without that little rubber deal, CC will not work. (You can also fix your CC by taping or gluing a coin over the hole that plug filled.) Again, this is a mod which will make your car less valuable to anyone looking to buy something more than a "4-door DSM." You will still have the CC controls on your steering column, but they will do nothing. Which is lame if it's not a true race car.
Proper deletion involves yanking out the CC bits over on the passenger side of the firewall under the hood and running a new, non-cruise throttle cable from the pedal to the throttle body.
YMMV
I can understand the ABS delete, as it's an early system subject to failure and an unnecessary complication of the brake system, but the other two are just "mods" I laugh at when I see them lauded as performance modifications. If you're going to keep this car forever and race the ever-loving sh*t out of it, then by all means - go right ahead - but don't expect to one day be able to sell it for more than about $1000 after you've parted it out in your driveway.
Simply put, your car is worth more with AC and CC than without - even if neither actually works. It is easier to fix these systems than to re-install them.
Good luck either way.
SouthCaliVR4
Well-known member
I agree with the DR. on all but one point. the cruise control. After several upgrades & a nice increase in power I found the cruise would either peg me to the seat or put me to the windshield. It's calibration just couldn't keep up with the aditional power output & in my own opinion cruise control is pretty good for keeping you at speed till you impact a bridge abutment should you fall asleep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif Besides it allways seems to want to give gas when I would be letting up & lets up as I would apply. think twisty mountain pass or the like.
As for the a/c, I'm never giving that up!!! It's over a hundred here today!
As for the a/c, I'm never giving that up!!! It's over a hundred here today!
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turbowop
Well-known member
^^^This.
The cruise control on these cars is horrible if you make decent power and need to use it on long steep grades, and is the reason I yanked it out of 1051. Also, the non-cruise throttle cable has a more connected feel to it than the cruise-cable with all its pullies and associated linkages. That said, I left it in 503 since it's a lower power car and works well on long trips.
AC in both my cars works awesome. I've proven that you can run a huge FMIC and a decent sized turbo, all while keeping AC.
The cruise control on these cars is horrible if you make decent power and need to use it on long steep grades, and is the reason I yanked it out of 1051. Also, the non-cruise throttle cable has a more connected feel to it than the cruise-cable with all its pullies and associated linkages. That said, I left it in 503 since it's a lower power car and works well on long trips.
AC in both my cars works awesome. I've proven that you can run a huge FMIC and a decent sized turbo, all while keeping AC.
ade
Well-known member
thanks for the help
If any1 wants some paypal for a solid gvr4 ac condenser, LMK.
i bought the car without an ac belt there wasn't any gas in the system and the condenser was falling apart. i junked the condenser, pulled the lines & compressor to shelf duty where they will sit till i have part for fix.
Do i need a different brake master cyl to pull off an abs to non abs swap?
i pulled the abs unit and old rusty lines, picked up a non abs prop, a masculine amount of brake hard & ss lines + appropriate fittings, found and unplugged the abs control unit. Sunday is make brakes work day.
cruise, i took off for a sprucing. got my hands on a used non CC cable and /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
If any1 wants some paypal for a solid gvr4 ac condenser, LMK.
i bought the car without an ac belt there wasn't any gas in the system and the condenser was falling apart. i junked the condenser, pulled the lines & compressor to shelf duty where they will sit till i have part for fix.
Do i need a different brake master cyl to pull off an abs to non abs swap?
i pulled the abs unit and old rusty lines, picked up a non abs prop, a masculine amount of brake hard & ss lines + appropriate fittings, found and unplugged the abs control unit. Sunday is make brakes work day.
cruise, i took off for a sprucing. got my hands on a used non CC cable and /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
ghostinthevr4
Well-known member
Quoting SouthCaliVR4:
I agree with the DR. on all but one point. the cruise control. After several upgrades & a nice increase in power I found the cruise would either peg me to the seat or put me to the windshield. It's calibration just couldn't keep up with the aditional power output & in my own opinion cruise control is pretty good for keeping you at speed till you impact a bridge abutment should you fall asleep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif Besides it allways seems to want to give gas when I would be letting up & lets up as I would apply. think twisty mountain pass or the like.
As for the a/c, I'm never giving that up!!! It's over a hundred here today!
Have you tried cleaning and lubing the cables? My cruise control use to be jerky and laggy, once I sprayed WD-40 on the inside of the cables and then lube them with white lithium grease I smoked my clutch. It was stock and it was time to upgrade anyways. I use my cruise control all the time it works great, it's pretty smooth even up hills.
I have an increase in power too I'm running the FP3065, maybe small turbos give you that inconsistent feeling or the cleaning of the cables.
I agree with the DR. on all but one point. the cruise control. After several upgrades & a nice increase in power I found the cruise would either peg me to the seat or put me to the windshield. It's calibration just couldn't keep up with the aditional power output & in my own opinion cruise control is pretty good for keeping you at speed till you impact a bridge abutment should you fall asleep. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif Besides it allways seems to want to give gas when I would be letting up & lets up as I would apply. think twisty mountain pass or the like.
As for the a/c, I'm never giving that up!!! It's over a hundred here today!
Have you tried cleaning and lubing the cables? My cruise control use to be jerky and laggy, once I sprayed WD-40 on the inside of the cables and then lube them with white lithium grease I smoked my clutch. It was stock and it was time to upgrade anyways. I use my cruise control all the time it works great, it's pretty smooth even up hills.
I have an increase in power too I'm running the FP3065, maybe small turbos give you that inconsistent feeling or the cleaning of the cables.
donkeylips
Well-known member
The three biggest reasons for me to eliminate the A/C are to 1. Relocate the alternator, 2. Increase airflow and 3. have more space to work under the hood.
When you remove the evaporator, you don't have to remove the dash. It seems that you do on a 1g though. The housing comes apart and you can take out the evaporator itself. You're then left with a duct to put back under the dash. You just have to plug one hole. I covered it with electrical tape and it worked great. Then I got the OEM rubber plug for the firewall so that the car appears to have come from the factory without A/C. You can even get a blank button for the dash.
Removing the A/C and cruise are totally reversible. Just throw everything in a box if you want to install it later. Especially if your A/C system needs to be recharged or your compressor fails anyway. I would never want to re-install the ABS for a bunch of reasons though.
When you remove the evaporator, you don't have to remove the dash. It seems that you do on a 1g though. The housing comes apart and you can take out the evaporator itself. You're then left with a duct to put back under the dash. You just have to plug one hole. I covered it with electrical tape and it worked great. Then I got the OEM rubber plug for the firewall so that the car appears to have come from the factory without A/C. You can even get a blank button for the dash.
Removing the A/C and cruise are totally reversible. Just throw everything in a box if you want to install it later. Especially if your A/C system needs to be recharged or your compressor fails anyway. I would never want to re-install the ABS for a bunch of reasons though.
