Preventative maintenance tips, about to DD 1501

[LIV4PSI]

I decided to part ways with my STi and I am going to start daily driving the galant. I bought it from my best friend, and he got off to a pretty good start on making it a solid, reliable car. I am getting ready to take it all apart again and finish what he started. I need to fix some oil leaks, put in a new clutch disc, and I am also doing a 5lug/4bolt swap. I am also working on replacing all the bushings.

I have already aquired quite a few nice parts, and bought a parts car so I have a short shopping list left. I wanted to see if I am missing anything. I don't plan on having the engine out again for a long time. I have a truck I can drive that I use for towing, so some down time in the future is fine. It just can't turn into JSB status.

Parts I have
-SPEC disc (friend install new SPEC pp and a OEM tob)
-resurfaced A.C.T. flywheel
-Avid mounts
-Cometic gasket kit
-Fluidampr pulley (car has cheap alum one now)
-Brass shifter cable bushings
-5 lug hubs
-rotors
-full DSM rear subframe with LSD 4 bolt

Shopping list
-Rear subframe and mustache bushings
-1g full bushing kit (so I can do rear arms now)
-brake pads and fluids

My friend has suggested OEM Mitsu front and rear main seal kits, and also a new OEM oil pump case (have 2 used spares) It seems unneccessary to me, so I'm looking for opinions. Also, anything that should be done while rear subframe is out? Thanks in advance

 

[mitsuturbo]

Well, the most important thing i can think of is the timing belt. A BS elimination would be a really good idea. From what i understand, alternators last a LOT longer if they're moved to the back of the engine, but if you have A/C, that's not an option. Make sure the P/S pump isn't leaking a drop, the Tcase doesn't leak, the radiator is good, and the hoses are all fairly new; especially the ones that feed the turbo and oil cooler. If it still has a 1g exhaust manifold, you'll probably want to replace that ASAP as well. I've seen a few that aren't cracked yet, but it's rare, and probably just a matter of time before yours would. The pancake oil cooler can be a major failure point, so make sure the stud that goes thru that thing is good and tight (but not too tight) and won't back out on you.

 

[Dark_Horse]

As for the stock oil cooler. Apply some blue threadlock and tighten the stud/bolt to 30 ft/lbs (IIRC). That will stop it from backing off and dumping oil everywhere.

I'd also suggest replacing the alternator with a Saturn alternator. Requires a bit of grinding on the alt its self, but the voltage will be much more solid once the stock Mitsu one is gone.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Thanks for all the suggestions, it sounds like we're already on the right track. It already has a Gates timing belt on it, along with new tensioners and water pump. The BSE was also done by my friend before I bought it. The manifold is a ported 2g one, and we sandblasted it before we ported it to make sure there was no cracks.

OFH bolt already backed out previously and has been addressed too. We were less than 5 miles from our campsite for the 2011 DSM/EVO shootout. My friend Mark was a ninja shutting it down, so no harm was done. It was still scary.

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Well, the most important thing i can think of is the timing belt. A BS elimination would be a really good idea. From what i understand, alternators last a LOT longer if they're moved to the back of the engine, but if you have A/C, that's not an option. Make sure the P/S pump isn't leaking a drop, the Tcase doesn't leak, the radiator is good, and the hoses are all fairly new; especially the ones that feed the turbo and oil cooler. If it still has a 1g exhaust manifold, you'll probably want to replace that ASAP as well. I've seen a few that aren't cracked yet, but it's rare, and probably just a matter of time before yours would. The pancake oil cooler can be a major failure point, so make sure the stud that goes thru that thing is good and tight (but not too tight) and won't back out on you.




^^^ spot on! ^^^


Inspect all the brake hoses, especially the rears at the fittings for deterioration/issues.


Be sure the fuel system is up to snuff, and change the fuel filter.


Make sure the radiator, a/c and intercooler cores are free and clear of debris.


Check your spare tire for condition and inflation.

Make sure you gots a jack and the tools needed to change out your spare.


As far as the oil leaks go, let your conscience be your guide. Be sure to check for grooving of the seal surfaces on the crank, cams, and oil pump gear.

... I have to admit I don;t really see any purpose to changing out the front case unless you're having issues with low oil pressure or something along those lines. I've taken a bunch of these motors past 250K on the original oil pump

... if ain;t broke, don't fix it ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


MitsuTurbo's advice on the coolant hoses and pancake cooler is as good as it gets.

Getting the cooling system up to snuff will pay great dividends on a daily driver

 

[alansupra94]

I would definitely recommend making/getting some sort of heat shield for the alternator. It will help it live much longer.

 

[LIV4PSI]

I never realized the alternator had such problems being where it is. Is the best way to relocate it by buying a kit from Jay's Racing?

 

[alansupra94]

Yes but I mean with a proper heat shield, it should be fine. I ended up bending some random shield I had lying around and it works fine.

 

[LIV4PSI]

I might make a shield temporarily. Honestly, I think the price of the relocation kit is justified by how much cleaner the bay looks. Sounds stupid, I know.

 

[mitsuturbo]

If you no longer have A/C, do it. The hardest part is figuring out how you want to run the wires once it's moved, and that's not all that difficult.

 

[alansupra94]

Yeah changing the wires isn't tough at all. I just plan on putting the A/C back in so /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[LIV4PSI]

AC is already long gone. I haven't had AC in anything besides my tow truck in almost a decade. Ohio isn't too hot (usually), I only miss it in the staging lanes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

You guys have me convinced. I will be relocating my alternator and grabbing a used Saturn one next time I'm out at the junkyards. Might as well wire up the right connector if I'm messing with it anyways. If I get lucky selling some parts, I might grab a new one.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Make sure you get the STEEL relocation kit. The aluminum one has a well documented history of breakage.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Thanks for the tip on the steel bracket, I would have definitely bought the aluminum one. Before this thread, I had no idea that these cars like to eat alternators so often. Unfortunately 1501 needs lots of love, so a heat shield is going to have to work for now. I just placed an order with JNZ and I'm officially broke. Since I've made this thread I ordered

-Rear subframe and mustache bushings from Boostx
-Energy Suspension 1G Master bushing kit
-Symborski shift kit
-OEM shift lever bushings and trans bracket bushing
-Clutch pedal rebuild kit with brass bushing

I hope all these parts with my afore mentioned list is enough to make the car feel solid again, instead of like a cheap, wore out $2 hooker. I'm ready to finish all this boring stuff so I can turn the boost up where it belongs.

 

A heat shield for the alternator or exhaust wrap all the hot parts in that area, manifold o2 housing, dp.

And an absolute must no matter what is you need to get some longer bolts for that fluidampr pulley. Some people have had some issues using the oem bolts because they are not long enough, they come loose and then you are screwed.

click

 

[LIV4PSI]

Thanks for the tips on bolts. My JNZ order won't ship out until next week, they said I could call back and add on to it.

 

[LIV4PSI]

I finally got my DSM rear subframe tore down. I already bought the ES bushing, and the Boostx bushings. I decided I might as well add new sway links and wheel bearings while it is all apart. Will I have any problems with Rock Auto parts, or do I need to order OEM Mitsu stuff. Obviously the Rock Auto parts are close to half the price.

Also, I only bought the bolts that were in the link. Do I need the larger, more expensive one as well?

 

[JNR]

Re: Rock Auto...while they do offer good stuff (like moog), they also offer chinese stuff that I wouldn't risk on my car, so see if you can find out the mfr/COO, etc. Regardless of 'brand', they do have good prices, so that's not *always* an indication, but you do have to be really careful these days with aftermarket parts...Also, that is not to say oem is always best though either and is often far overpriced. Sort of a judgement call part to part.

 

[LIV4PSI]

The sway bar links are Raybestos, so I am under the impression they are fine and made by a quality manufacturer.

The wheel bearings are Timken for the outer, and SKF for the inner. I haven't heard of either of those, but my mechanic friend said Timken has been around forever making bearings.

 

[mitsuturbo]

In my opinion, SKF is about as good as it gets. Timken is fine as well. Those are both very well known brands, and i'm sure they conform to all standards, at the very least.