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Clutch Packages

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
This thread is meant to be a "what's in the box" sort of deal. You buy a new clutch. you snap some pics of it as you unbox it. You post those pics here along with what you paid and what the manufacturer had to say about intended use, clamping load, etc. I'll start.

Action Clutch 1ks $385.00 shipped
2300lb Pressure Plate (approximate value according to builder)
Segmented Kevlar Sprung Disk
OE Mitsu TOB
Alignment Tool

Supposed to be good for launching 375 ft/lb brake. I had a long conversation with the shop owner. We talked about tradeoffs from changing the pivot location for easier pedal effort and I came away feeling like he really knew his business and was genuinely invested in making a performance clutch with good release and long life. I'm still in the break-in period so I can't comment on ultimate holding capacity but the drivability of this kevlar unit is outstanding.






 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Good topic for a thread!

... let's try and keep this one on track and follow the guidelines in the original post.

Like to see some feedback on the various set-ups after they've been in service for a bit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
That looks like as bulletproof a sprung-hub disc i've ever seen. Nice large rivets holding it together, and the springs look to be very well contained.

I might consider running another sprung hub, after seeing this one.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
i just bought a clutch... i haven't gotten it yet just bought it yesterday off ebay.

F1 Racing STAGE 2 clutch kit - $110 shipped to my door....

This complete clutch kit includes:
F1 Racing Heavy-Duty Pressure Plate
F1 Racing Carbon Kevlar Disc (225mm, 20 spline)
Release Bearing
Alignment Tool

Horsepower Rating: 307 HP / Torque Capacity: 275 ft/lbs

here is a picture off ebay...



this is the second clutch i have bought from this ebay store and it held up great. once i get the clutch in the mail i will take pictures as i open the box..

reason i bought it... for $110 i can't complain. they hold up and its not like im racing the car. its going to be in a DD making around 300 hp. i also do all the work myself so im not paying someone to put it in for me..
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
Let us know how that F1 clutch holds up.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
i bought one of these like 2 years ago, was awesome. drove 6000 miles on it then sold the car... when i sold the car the clutch was still brand new feeling. so im hoping for the same experience again.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quoting mitsuturbo:
That looks like as bulletproof a sprung-hub disc i've ever seen. Nice large rivets holding it together, and the springs look to be very well contained.

I might consider running another sprung hub, after seeing this one.



Actually the F1 clutch looks to have the springs similarly well enclosed.
 

SleepinGVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
2,483
Location
Danville, Pennsylvania
Just purchased this the other day from TMZ Performance.

South Bend TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Dual Friction Clutch Disk. $515 shipped.
Came with the pressure plate, disk, TOB, and alignment tool.








 

thedsmguy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
1,785
Location
Vancouver Washington
The last F1 that was put in a friends car broke within 500 miles, He's not easy on his cars but I'm pretty sure it makes well less then 300 whp. I'd never put another one in even if it was free.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
really??? how hard was he on it within the first 500 miles... thats the breakin period. really shouldn't be hamming gears right off the bat like that. secondly im not a racecar driver and this isn't a racecar, this is my cruise and enjoy car, (i have a hammer on it car and its my laser that has a 700$ clutch set up and a 2,000$ transmission to handle being beat on, not to mention the motor and rest of the car that is built) so if he was hard on it right off the bat then yeah the clutch is gonna get ruined. im not trying to launch my car or anything. i just wanted a nice soft clutch that was cheap and will last with normal driving. i think i found my good compromise. plus if it is sh*t i will keep it in for 3 or 4 months then save and buy a better one and switch it out, but i don't see myself needing to do that. thank you for your experience thedsmguy and i hope i dont have the same misfortune as your friend. i will keep everyone up to date once i get the clutch in the mail and use one of these for the second time. fingers crossed...
 

thedsmguy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
1,785
Location
Vancouver Washington
He is a super broke kinda guy. And I agree he should have broke it in more then 100 miles But it was the springs failing on it that really was frustrating there was no issue with slippage etc.
"thedsmguy" or not, I cannot control how other people use there cars.

Sorry to have come off as rude. It was pretty late when I posted that ;-)
 

Jesus_Negros

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
2,344
Location
USA
Is this thread just for 4g63/64 motors.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Quoting thedsmguy:
He is a super broke kinda guy. And I agree he should have broke it in more then 100 miles But it was the springs failing on it that really was frustrating there was no issue with slippage etc.
"thedsmguy" or not, I cannot control how other people use there cars.

Sorry to have come off as rude. It was pretty late when I posted that ;-)



you didn't come off rude, you made a true statement about a product that were discussing. your right we can not control how people drive there cars, but we can see how they drive them and compare that to how others drive and what they do for a break in. IMO a 100 mile break in will warrant you to break a spring. i mean thats the point of the break-in, to loosen up those springs and keep them from failing.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
Just purchased this the other day from TMZ Performance.

South Bend TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Dual Friction Clutch Disk. $515 shipped.
Came with the pressure plate, disk, TOB, and alignment tool.












Please do an update on this clutch when it is fitted. This is another clutch that was recommended to me for a spirited daily driver. I have also read that that disk with the CFDF pressure plate works well.
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
My friend swears by the 3+. If it's a DD I would stay away from ceramic pucks. I'm selling the one I drove for a while. It's not impossible but it does take the joy out of driving a bit.
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
I know I don't have a vr4 any more but this is good info for people looking for a clutch. I just replaced my stock clutch in the evo. I did not want a ACT 2600 as thats what my friend has in his evo and has lock out problems. So I looked at the new comp clutches for the evo. English racing likes the stage 2 for street evos. I was going to go with that one but they do not hold up to launches that well. So I ended up going with the stage 3.5 that has a segmented ceramic disc. I have to say of all the single disc clutches I have used over the years this one is ranked #2. #1 being a old style act PP with a centerforce disc. The new comp grabs nice and strong but you can still slip it and no high RPM lock out.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Clutch "break in" is a myth, IMO. I'm a firm believer that a clutch is "broken in" as soon as the pressure plate has been properly bolted down, unless the friction disc has some kevlar surface on it. Those tend to drag a bit until they've been used a while. Sintered iron, copper cerametallic, and even "organic" discs don't seem to behave any differently without a break in period, from my experience.

Usually a friction disc failure is from zero or improper machining of the flywheel (or a used pressure plate). Regardless, it comes down to a non matching friction surface. The springs getting tossed is usually from being driven like a redheaded stepchild. I've seriously beaten the f*** out of some clutches. None have failed from "improper break-in". It's always been abuse, or something not being right when i put it together. Always. I quit running sprung hubs because i kept tossing springs on the shitty ones. In fact, one disc actually had the center part hammer on the rivets so hard, the entire thing came apart. ALL the springs fell out when i removed the pressure plate. No amount of "break in" would have prevented that. I was launching a heavy car often with a shitty clutch disc and a grabby pressure plate.

I've thrown a clutch into a car, and driven it to the track and raced. Then had the clutch last about as long as i'd think one should expect it to, given what was thrown at it. The 30 minute drive (with traffic) to the drag strip was the "break in" period.
 
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