The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Driveshaft Questions

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I'm looking at having a custom shaft made for my Galant. I found a couple threads on tuners, but nothing here except for the DSS aluminum shaft. A few people have combined the rear two shafts instead of the front two like DSS. I need to rebuild my shaft soon anyways and I have a good driveshaft company near me. I'm looking for advise on material, diameter and wall thickness.

Looks like (from other posts) it should be around 53" long, and probably 3" diameter. I would like to get rid of one carrier bearing, and the lobro. I will be doing poly rear subframe bushings and engine mounts (at least front/rear) at the same time.

Just really looking for opinions and insight for right now. If it doesn't seem worthwhile, then I'll probably just rebuild the stock shafts and fill the carriers with urethane.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I have to find out about sizes and prices. But a standard 2.5" steel (I supply the ends) should start around $100-120. I'll update with more info as I get it.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
hey let me know what this driveshaft idea cost you because i may want 2. one for my laser and one for my galant... i hate the lobro joint and would love to remove it.... also i live not to far so i could come down there for it...
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I've been chatting to DSS and they believe they can do a CF shaft for my VR4 in 3 1/4" (one piece).

I'm honestly only looking at getting the alloy 650hp shaft.

Anybody have one lying around that they want to sell?
Best of all, anybody willing to bring it to Australia?
 

Gizmovr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
366
Location
andover,NJ
The link below makes for a good read on the DSS driveshaft.
click

I did buy Corys driveshaft when he parted his car. I made the decision to upgrade because Cory was local- price was right and my stock driveshaft broke all 3 u-joints at the starting line last year when the car had an fp3065 turbo and twin disk ptt clutch. If you need any more information on the DSS driveshaft please feel free to PM.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I'm waiting for word back to make sure he has the right yokes to mount the GVR4/Talon shaft into his balancer. I wouldn't mind the DSS shaft, but I would have to find it used in my current financial status. LOL.

I would also like to know some opinions on making the rear two shafts one, instead of the front two like DSS does.
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
When the time comes I'm going to have PST make me a 1 piece carbon fiber driveshaft. I've installed a lot of those on 3000GT's and had them on the Stealth and race car. They are very nice. One of my favorite mods. Its like driving a completely different car. There are not cheap though but I'm in this for the long haul.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
^ does it cut down on vibration at all ? i mean it shouldn't vibrate at all as long as you take care of your car properly, but with a bit of power going to the wheels it changes things a bit.
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
They eliminate all of the clunking, banging, and thumping. Granted the GVR4 is not as bad as the 3S VR4 in stock form.

Some people have experienced vibration issues after installing the CF driveshaft. I believe these issues are related to other problems that were previously hidden.

I don't remember the weight savings, but I can easily hold the entire CF driveshaft with two fingers. I think it saves about 30lbs in the 3S. Probably less on the GVR4.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
Quoting matt92vr4:
When the time comes I'm going to have PST make me a 1 piece carbon fiber driveshaft. I've installed a lot of those on 3000GT's and had them on the Stealth and race car. They are very nice. One of my favorite mods. Its like driving a completely different car. There are not cheap though but I'm in this for the long haul.



Yeah, I would love a carbon 1 piece. But after buying a house, I don't have the spending limit like I did when I started building the car. LOL
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
^ haha im literally in the same position. just bought house and cant afford to finish my to project cars now so im super budgeting...
 

broxma

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
There is a shop here in San Antonio that will take the yoke(s) from your current shaft, build a new single piece to length, and spin balance it, for less than 200.00. Now, it may sound like you are getting what you pay for, which in this case, is the same driveshaft used on some of the 7 and 8 second turbo Mustangs and Nova's around the area.

I'll be running one on my new 'Not a GVR4/DSM/Mitsu' project.

/brox
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
^ That's pretty much what I'm doing. But they told me recommended length with a 3" shaft is ~48". I read somewhere, the rear two combined are ~53". He said that should work no problem, but I could step up to 3.25" or go chromoly.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
To run a 1pc driveshaft on the Galant/DSM you need to change the angle of the rear pinion flange. Otherwise, a 2pc driveshaft is the best you'll get with the stock rear sub frame and diff.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
The few guys I've seen run 1pc driveshafts were using custom built tube rear subframes and 3KGT diffs. The diff doesn't really matter, but its position in the rear subframe absolutely does. The custom built subframe allows to compensate for the mismatch in driveline angles built into the stock components.

Boostin runs a 1pc driveshaft on their drag car. I know of one other guy who did, but ended up going back to a 2pc CF unit.

Personally, I'd recommend people stick with a freshly rebuilt stock 3pc unit if they have the option. The stock DS will get the job done for 99.99% of the builds out there. If I had to do it again, I wouldn't have swapped to a DSS unit, especially after finding a boot kit for the lobro joint.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top