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Any ideas? Rear wheel bearing.

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
DSC02490.jpg


Slide hammer - nothing.
Socket and deadblow from backside - nothing.
Sawzall - nothing. Can't get started, too hard.
Dremel/cut-off wheel - would work, but can't get it in there.

I really don't want to take off the trailing arm what with the eccentric bolts and everything.
I hate you guys that live in California.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
I think I'm going to start attempting the trailing arm removal. I do have a spare, but...oh boy.
 

LILEVO

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
195
Location
Wisconsin
Damn that sucks. That bearing has always came out with the hub stub for me. Did you pound out the smaller bearing already? Use a mapp torch to heat that thing up good and pound it out from the inside /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Otherwise a brand new sawzall blade has always got me through bearings.
 

SouthCaliVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
Holy rusted metal Batman!!!! I'd be looking to replace that. along with anything else under there that looks like that. You need to stop spending money on anything other than rust repair or soon your car will be scrap.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
That's why I own 3 Galants. This is the winter beater. But it's just a little bit too beat.

DSC02492.jpg

DSC02495.jpg


The inner bearing is out in the pic from my first post. What you may be seeing in there is the ABS ring.
Getting the inner race out was supposed to allow me to cut the outer race with the dremel. So far I've only managed to get a couple of pie-shaped wedges out. It's rust-welded in there good. Not sure if I'll ever get it.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Looks like 108/1000 will be JSB for another week.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
My air hammer chisels are too soft. They're getting all chewed up. What it's leaving behind kind of looks like solder.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Well I'm a quitter. I just bought a complete rear subframe/suspension from a guy with a 1g that hit a deer. It's almost rust-free and already 5-lug with good bearings.
 

Thirsty

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2007
Messages
53
Location
Brisbane, Qld, Australia
Gee, I feel for you poor blokes with the salt on the roads. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
I was complaining my subframe was dirty but it is mint compared to those pics. Come live in Australia...LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
Ross
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
100_1226.jpg


No wonder my 4WS didn't work! I'm shocked!
This picture actually makes the old rear subframe look good though.
100_1224.jpg


After POR15 and liberal use of anti-seize. Decided to use the lower mileage 3-bolt rear diff from a '91 Talon.
100_1240.jpg


Back on the streets in no time:
100_1254.jpg
 
Last edited:

IncorpoRatedX

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2003
Messages
5,593
Location
Arizona
holy crap...

on a side note, have you posted pics of the blue car yet??
 

I'm cleaning mine up too! Im just wire wheeling off the surface rust and hitting it with rustoleum though
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Quoting Alpha Male:
holy crap...

on a side note, have you posted pics of the blue car yet??



Not yet! The car is covered up in indoor storage about 3 hours away. The car was really dirty in the couple of crappy pictures I have. I'm thinking about selling it to get a straighter, and equally rust-free Galant.
You can see why I really value rust-free cars...
 
Last edited:
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