Fuel Pump not getting power.

So today i Drove 1893 for the first time.

I bought it with a blown motor, it had been sitting for 2+ years. I swapped in a 93 7 bolt from a known good running talon. The swap went smoothly until time to start.

It just cranked,Can hear a click when trying to start form the ecu area. Ecu came out of the same car the motor came from, known to be working good, also.

Got spark, no fuel though. Tried supplying a 12volt to the fire wall fuel pump test terminal and got nothing. Ok the fuel pump is bad, was going to replace it anyways, The install of the 255lph was a PITA! just to find still no fuel. After banging out heads against the wall checking everything we could find. we hotwired the fuel pump with a switch, THE CAR STARTED!

Great thats all I wanted, figured id call it a day. I pulled the key out and the car keeps running, with full power except headlights. The car turns off when I shut off the fuel pump, then all the rest of the power shuts off with it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

also while its on, the temperature gauge does not work, boost gauge does not work, and teh gas tank is on full.

 

[Brunoboy]

this has happened to my before, it turned out to be a Bad ECU, I spliced power to the fuel pump wire from the ecu harness and used a switch to power the fuel pump like a kill switch. Only problem was If I forgot to turn off the fuel pump switch, it would stay on while the car was off.
-shane

 

[transparentdsm]

try a fuel pump rewire kit. 12 bucks. it will solve all your problems. it sounds like your not getting enough current through the wires. if you want to keep it stock, you may want to go through and check the current going through all the wires because it could be a rotted wire from sitting for 2 years or even a blown out fuze. disconnect the fuel pump connecting wires turn the ignition over and check the terminal to see if its getting power at the pump. if so then its your sending unit. if no power then you have to get a wiring diagram and start where you are and fish all the way back till you find the source of your problem. i have done this with one of my dsm's before and it was a hassle, but i loved the car so much at the time that i did it anyway. 2 days of hunting. just be patient and take your time. mine ended up being a rotted out wire from a fuze blowing out and melting some of the plastic on the fuel pump wire, exposing it.

 

[mikus]

Could be a few things, FP wiring or ECU seem like possibilities.

Read up on the MPI relay, what it does and how to test it. That's what's clicking and that sends power to both the ECU and fuel pump. 15 minutes testing/understanding what it does will help you understand & troubleshoot your problem

Take the opportunity to do the fuel pump rewire, done right you'll never have to touch the fuel pump wiring again. This means good 10 gauge wire, a good brand properly-rated relay and an anti-kickback diode either in the relay or inline. Those can all be had cheap enough, but not in a $12 kit. Whatever you do get rid of that switch setup - it's not safe or permanent.

 

[transparentdsm]

this is what you need

Automotive Relay 30/40 amp 12 VDC
10 Gauge, Stranded OFC Copper High Quality, Power Wire (Red) - under hood 10 foot/in trunk 2 foot
10 Gauge, Stranded OFC Copper High Quality, Power Wire (Black) - 1 foot
14 GA, OFC High Quality Copper Relay Ground Wire - 1 foot
10 GA Automotive Inline Fuse Holder
25 amp Blade-Type Automotive Fuse
All Solderless Crimp Connectors that are Required
10 Zip-Tie Wire Straps

and aside from the zip ties, fuse and the solderless crimp connectors i had to get everything else.
i got the wires and fuse holder for like 10 dollars and then i went to a junk yard and got the automotive relay 30/40 amp 12 VDC out of a car that had an after market alarm system. it cost me 2 dollars to go in the junk yard. its really a simple thing to make your self and depending on where your battery is( in the trunk?) you need like no wire at all. then got to vfaq.com and read the how to on where it all goes. here is the link click hope that was helpful.

 

fuel pump re wire did the trick. Picked up my first multi meter today. The harness on the sender was bad. So I decided to do my own re wire.
1893 is officially up and running!

 

[gramkrakr89]

good to hear /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif- electrical gremlins be damned!