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Tuning ?

Yao

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2001
Messages
810
Location
Denver, CO
Okay, now I have been very actively tunning with my DS-map this last couple of weeks. At first I work on my Air/fuel ratio to around 10.5 to 7k on third, then cold idle/enrichments ect.... now I am on the timing. I have timing the way I like it everywhere, except the TOP end of the spectrum. My 18g starts to spool around 3200rpm and full boost hits at around 3800rpm and when I had the timing at 17 degrees advanced all the way to 7k, it would pull like a freight train, but with knock of 43 counts!! so I've been cutting back the timing gradually and now I am at the end of the rope. My timing at top of 4th gear from 4000rpm to 7k is ZERO!! that is right even with that timing I get knock of 13 at top of 4th at 6k. As it sits now, I am at -2 from 4500rpm up!!?? how can this be correct? I am at 5800ft/sea level running pump gas of 92 octane with 24ish psi. I know stock timing is aggressive but from 17 degrees to zero?? and still knocks... by the way, when I boosted today at 2nd gear for the first time with -2 degree timing, I get a SLOW car!! no knock, but slow, didn't have the pull like it was, but if I made the 2nd gear pull hard with advanced timing, my 4th gear would knock like crazy on top!!! what am I doing wrong?
 
Last edited:

4thStroke

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,864
Location
Vancouver, WA
Replace the knock sensor. 43 counts is what the ECU defaults to when the knock sensor is unplugged, so something sounds funny about the ridiculous amount of knock.
 

Boost4U

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
133
Location
Hampton, VA
If you're replacing it anyways, go with a 2g knock sensor they work better. you will probably see a nasty black goo running down the block when you go to replace it.
 

SleepinGVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
2,483
Location
Danville, Pennsylvania
Do NOT run a 2nd gen knock sensor! In order to run a second gen knock sensor you need AEM EMS or other other type of engine management software.

Taken from Tooners, "The 2G knock sensor is a simple 0-5v sensor that reads noise. The noise is filtered via software and I think, but am not sure, part of the ECU circuitry. It is translated into knock event counts and is accumulated to a sum. the 1G sensor has a filter in itself, and delivers it's signal to the knock board, and the knock board supplies the ECU with a yes or no each cycle. If it gives a yes the knock count incriments, if it's a no, it decrements according to the decrement rate in the code."

Use a 1st gen knock sensor.
 
Last edited:

Boost4U

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
133
Location
Hampton, VA
I stand corrected. Can't for the life of me think why I assumed he was running link. I know it wasn't stated in the post. Good call sir.
 

MuffinMan7580

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
142
Location
Fort Bragg, NC
If you're still running 10.5:1 A/F, then try leaning it out to 11.0:1. You can cause knock with the car being too rich.
 

thecman02

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
917
Location
Kalamazoo,MI
Another thing to watch out for is any loose motor mounts or things that are rattling in the engine bay.
 

Yao

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2001
Messages
810
Location
Denver, CO
thanks for all the suggestions. I'll put in a new knock sensor first, will pick one up tomorrow and then I'll lean out the 10.5 to 11 and see what happens.
 
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