Im going to pull out the clutch pedal assy so I can fix it. If I push it all the way to the floor it wont come back all the way to the top so I have to grab it and pull it up by hand. I have read that I need to welding the assy but I want to make sure I do this right. I read that you need to pre load the pedal assy befor you weld it. Im not sure what that means. If you have done this repair or know alot about it please help me out. I do have replacement parts for the assy. I have the pedal, arm, and bushings to be replaced. If you know of any vids that might help I would love to see them.
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clutch pedal welding?
- Thread starterTOM
- Start date
boostedinaz
Well-known member
Welding it will keep the problem from reoccuring. Just getting a new one (if available) will simply delay the same issue.
I do know that people had issues with the stock plasitc bushing melting when they would weld the assembly. I know Shep sells brass bushing that are better and don't melt.
I do know that people had issues with the stock plasitc bushing melting when they would weld the assembly. I know Shep sells brass bushing that are better and don't melt.
MuffinMan7580
Well-known member
Quoting Nabeel:
From what I read before. Mostly advised to not weld & change it. But Are you sure about your issue. It seems you have leak or need to bleed your clutch line. Or may be bad clutch master/slave cylinder .
+1. From what I understand, if the pedal assembly wears out, you will still have a little bit of feel, just a lot of slow/dead play no matter how much you adjust it.
From what I read before. Mostly advised to not weld & change it. But Are you sure about your issue. It seems you have leak or need to bleed your clutch line. Or may be bad clutch master/slave cylinder .
+1. From what I understand, if the pedal assembly wears out, you will still have a little bit of feel, just a lot of slow/dead play no matter how much you adjust it.
GSX_TC
Well-known member
I recently had this problem and let me just say the easiest way to fix it is to order the parts from the dealer and relace the pedal and the little flange it goes to. About 50 bucks for both together. Thatll keep it working for another 20 years
KiNgMaRtY
Well-known member
OR you can get it rebuilt by Shepard with the brass bushing or order the bushing and do it yourself. From what I've read, welding is not a always a cure.
well I got it out and all looks good??? it dont ack the same out of the car?? seams to work just fine? can anyone show me what bushing go where? like a blown up pic of how it all gos together so I know what bushing go where. in the car if i push the clutch in it wont come all the way back up I have to pull it the rest of the way by hand. but out of the car it dont do that??
Brunoboy
Well-known member
I have to pull mine as well, how long did it take you? And is there a how to somewhere?
well I fix it! It did not take to long to get it out, You do have to take the clutch slave cyl and the break master cyl off the fire wall and unbolt the brackets holding the clutch line and break lines so you can move them out of the way without taking the lines off and having to bleed them, I was able to get it all out in about a half hour. It works great now!!
KiNgMaRtY
Well-known member
Wow, only 30min??
I also need to do mine eventually but everyone always says its such a PITA. Maybe its easier to do on the VR4 and on dsms.
I also need to do mine eventually but everyone always says its such a PITA. Maybe its easier to do on the VR4 and on dsms.
it looks harder then it is. just takes the right tools. not much there just a 12mm socket a few extensions. make sure to turn it counterclock wise a 1/4 turn and then pull it out, your speedo cable will get in the way a little. and remember the clutch pedal is spring loaded and it will get your finger if your not careful.
