Burnt out Radiator Fan Motor...help!

[JSchleim18]

Little background. Fan has been running fine since I've had the car running a month ago. Took it on a few 30 minute runs without a hiccup.

Well I figured today was going to be an easy day. Hook up ECMLink, install new ISC, set it and be happy. Well I waited for the car to get up to temp and when it did, the fan didn't kick on. So I shut the car off but kept it in "ignition on". Took out the relay in the fuse box and when I went to put it back in, it clicks. Fine it works. So I grabbed the radiator fan wiring and the fan kicked on. Hmm...loose wiring. So I just placed the wiring in a position where the fan would stay on (not like on at all times, but in function with the fan switch). I wasn't overly concerned about that. Something I'll fix after.

So now I get the car up to temp...fan running. As I'm getting the ISC dialed in, I can smell something funny. Could not figure out where the hell it was coming from! As I'm looking over a few things, I notice some light sparking coming from between the radiator and the radiator support where the hood latch is connected to. They're touching. I move the radiator a little forward so it doesn't touch anymore and then I notice the smell is heavier and some white smoke pouring from the radiator fan motor. FML. shut the car off.

Inspect the damage. The relay is very hot. 30 AMP fuse under fuse box for radiator fan's clear cover is a little bubbly. Pull it out and open the cover. The connection looks to have expanded but didn't pop.

Wires directly connected by the base of the radiator fan motor are a little melted. Also, the pigtail connection (positive side) is melted. Was there maybe a short or too much current?

Please Help!!!

 

[Terry Posten]

I think I have a good GVR4 puller motor and a set of Galant LS fans.

Give me some detailed pics and maybe I can send you a spare.

 

[JSchleim18]

Hmmm...I would like to keep my current setup (Perma-Cool 19008 fan and 19209 motor). The motor is about $130. I'll keep the offer in mind though.

I don't know if this caused a short, but I have the fan connected directly to my aluminum shroud which is connected to my aluminum AFCO radiator. I *want* to say that the radiator fan motor was shorting itself when the radiator was hitting the radiator support and causing the sparks. However, I don't know if there was already a short in the wiring and this just added to the problem /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[spooling92vr4]

Did u wire the fan using the stock wiring or did you run it off of a relay? And solder everything no crimp connectors

 

[JSchleim18]

I ran it off the stock wiring using the stock relay for the when temperature switch engages. This setup was working fine for over a month. The reason I used butt connectors was because the wires wouldn't solder for sh*t. This time around I'll try my best to get them to solder.

 

[JSchleim18]

The spec on the fan is:

AMP Draw: 7.5
Fuse Size: 30 AMP

 

[JSchleim18]

So I'm just going to toss this out there. Tell me if this will fix the problem.

Just re-do the wiring, solder the connections. Get a new motor. Add rubber between the fan and the shroud so it won't short if the radiator touches the support. Replace the fuse obviously.

 

[Boost4U]

In your second picture it looks almost like your wires may be melted together at the fan motor where they are twisted together. I had that happen on my o2 sensor wiring. untwist the wires and see what it looks like. that's a real quick way to burn up your harness I ended up having to replace that whole section of my harness. it sucked.

 

[JSchleim18]

I went outside and looked more closely and I think you are right. I think that may have been the source of my problem. Called Perma-Cool and they won't even discount me. But I mean I bought the fan 2 years ago and it had a one year warranty. Just sucks. I've only had it installed and running for over a month. They wanted $250 for a new motor! But have none in stock. So I have to settle for a used one for $100.

Fkkkkkkin Ayyy!

 

[JSchleim18]

Here are better pictures of that wiring:

 

[Hertz]

Looks like the hot lead grounded out to the body of the motor.

 

[AllanL]

is the motor the sealed type?
or does it have slots you can pry?

 

[Boost4U]

yup, that sucks. not sure what causes it but glad you found it.

 

[JSchleim18]

Quoting Hertz:
Looks like the hot lead grounded out to the body of the motor.



And this is why I was probably sparking when where the radiator was touching the radiator support. The fan is connected to the aluminum shroud which is connected to the radiator...all acting like part of the circuit. Damn.

Quoting AllanL:
is the motor the sealed type?
or does it have slots you can pry?



I'll have to double check on that but since it was an electrical problem with the motor and not the bearings or anything, I'm thinking of sending it somewhere where they can fix it. Anyone have any ideas? I figure it should cost less than the price of a new motor from Perma-Cool and would be good to have as a spare.

 

[Boost4U]

It looks to me like you can take that cover off and there solder in some new wires. Give it a try, it's worth you time to have a go at it. shouldn't be that hard.

 

[jepherz]

The problem must be within the motor since the wires coming directly out of it are fried. I guarantee its cheaper to buy new. Just make sure you replace all of the factory wiring that is supect too or you will just keep burning up.

Since you saw arching I'm guessing the windings of the motor got shorted out to the case of the motor.

 

[jepherz]

Oh, and your question about "too much current", there really is no such thing. Current is just a byproduct of voltage (12v in this case) and resistance (the resistance of the motor or in this case the short to ground).