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FS: 1992 Galant VR-4 166/1000

mixx2001

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
5
Location
Greensboro, NC
So the time has finally come. The fiance says I have to make some room, so I'm listing 166 (205k on body, maybe 90ish on JDM sawp). Of course, I get to retain my balls (according to my logic) by dictating the terms of the sale. Bottom line, I don't want to sell the car. But if someone shows up, looking for a quick smooth transaction, with $2000 in their hands, and a flatbed, I'm not going to get in the way. I'm not negotiating, I'm not going to troubleshoot, I'm just going to sign over the title at the bank down the street, and watch my baby disappear into the sunset.

Lets start with the bad. I think there may be a boost leak somewhere. I never got around to Leak Testing it, but whenever you get into the boost, it falls all over itself, like it's running too fat or something. I just don't have the time right now to mess with it. It rolls rough as hell. The EVO Wheels are in desperate need of balancing, and the tires are flat spotted in multiple spots. The wheel bearings are definitely in need of replacement. I bought a 5 Lug Swap from a board member and the Knuckles, while solid, were pretty rusty, and the lower Ball Joints are definitely shot. I still have the old 4 Lug setup in the trunk. If I were keeping the car, I would get new Struts, Shocks, Bearings and Tires, then Balance and Align the sh*t out of the car. Prolly roll like a truck full of gold dicks after that. The Coolant Temp Sensor MAY be cross-threaded in the T-Stat Housing. I cant tell if I have the wrong sensor with the wrong thread pitch, or if its cross-threaded, but either way it leaks pretty bad (another vote for the flatbed). It can start, with a fresh battery (not included), but there again, I would not recommend driving this anywhere, in its current state.

I put in a freshly rebuilt trans from Jack's back in 2010 (along with the Green GVR4 I used to have, did two at once). I was just try to finish the job as quick as possible, and afterwards I can't get into 5th, and getting into Reverse requires some crafty manuvering. I'm sure I just over looked something during the install, cause Jack's work is usually on point, but I just don't have the time to figure out what exactly is causing this to happen. I have less than 20 miles on that trans, because since the 5 Lug conversion I did the same week as the trans, I haven't felt comfortable driving the car anywhere but up and down my street to diagnose a couple things.

There maybe be some other gremlins I'm overlooking, but the point is the car will move under it's own power. That's about as specific as I feel comfortable getting with the cars mechanical condition. This isn't a DD, its a project.

The good is (aside from the Jack's Tranny) is the EVO Wheels, 4 Bolt LSD, AWS Delete, APEXi SAFC-II, Blitz DSBC (not hooked up, using a DIY Granger Manual cause I could never figure that Blitz out, but it's there), HKS Turbo Timer, a new genuine Mitsu EVO3 16G Turbo that was installed about 1000 miles before the car needed the trans, and a used Custom 3in Stainless Exhaust with a genuine APEXi N1 Muffler.

None of the suspension that was listed on my Members Showcase is still on the car, it was all swapped to the Green one I sold, and it REALLY needs some new Struts. The Knuckle mounting points are almost rusted through, which is another reason I recommend a flatbed.

Like I said at the beginning, I'd rather not sell the car, and restore her back to her former glory, but if you have $2000 to relieve me of my pipe dream, I'll cooperate. I flatbeded this this thing, completely lifeless, from Atlanta to Greensboro site unseen for $5000 back in 2002, so you don't have to be that optimistic, but it does require some vision.

Just remember, I have very little time, so if you can't make a decision based on what's written here, then this isn't the car for you. If it does sell, I hope maybe one day to Gas Monkey another one of these bad motherfuckers, and rejoin this community.

Photos: click
 
Last edited:

NateCrisman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Interested. Im fine with the "it's a project" - can you post some more photos of the typical rot areas.....

open the rear doors...photo of the area where the ground effects and the rear "dogleg" come together. (rocker rot usually "starts" under the ground effect at the back by the dog leg)
open front door.....photo of "behind the front fender" through the door jam. (typically the fenders rot out behind the plastic moldings and you can see from the jam if it's clean or rotty)

any underside photos showing subframe condition.

Im up for a winter car to fix up and drive/fix/tune while my 1G DSM hibernates.
 

mixx2001

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
5
Location
Greensboro, NC
Sorry, for the late reply. I thought I put my email address in the thread. Yeah, I can post pictures of those areas. I should have time tomorrow. I work at a BMW Dealer in Chapel Hill, NC but live in High, NC, so I'm super limited on time. As long as the wife doesn't have anything she's gonna spring on me last minute, I should be able to get some good shots tomorrow.

Can you guys see the pictures in the link ok?? First time I shared a Google Photos link on a forum, as opposed to hosting them somewhere.
 

Snook1345

Active member
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
42
Location
Baltimore, md
yeah the pictures are alright,

Nate if you happen to scoop this thing I will meet u somewhere on 95 and grab a dash from you if you have one at the shop lol or we can just take the dash out of this one and have lunch
 
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