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4 bolt install/ 4ws removal.. Its not that messy..

So Im not quite finished yet, I took my time and cleaned up the whole underside of the car tonight.. used damn near 3/4 bottle of simple green on the undercarriage, the rear subframe, suspension, wheel wells and just about everything else. Im going to respray the subframe, as well as the 4bolt and the undercarriage black.

Its weird everyone and their mom said that this was the messiest job they've done.. I have to disagree. I started with the high pressure fittings at both ends and put a 'oil' pan under each side. Used a 14 and 17mm open end wrench w/ some pb blaster and the nuts broke right loose. I bent the lines down towards the pan and let drain. I then took a die grinder to the low pressure lines but only went halfway through (because fluid in the lines, thousands of rpms and lots of heat dont mix). Then I bent the lines above the pan and let everything drain in. Took all the 12mm bolts out that hold the lines in place going down the entire car, etc etc.. If you do it right, its a clean job.

I dropped the entire subframe because I was told it was, And it turns out by the looks of it, is alot easier. Only 4 major bolts to drop it, and just involves removing the calipers, lower strut bolts, parking brake lines, ABS electrical ish and some other minor things. Then the whole thing drops by a jack holding up the rear diff.

Factory 3 bolt axle cups are a bitch to get off at first! You have to tap em in the right spot with a hammer, then wiggle them out by hand.

Im getting the fittings for the front rack welded first thing in the morning, then putting the rear end back up, then its all done!

Here are a few pics..

4bolt01.jpg

4bolt02.jpg

4bolt03.jpg

4bolt04.jpg

4bolt05.jpg


I'll post pics tomorrow after its all cleaned up and Im done with the whole thing.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
quote:Originally posted by Mitsuturbo:
why delete it? For me, it was easier to delete the 4WS than to keep it when swapping to a four bolt, which would have reqired swapping the innards of my 4bolt into the pumpkin of my 3bolt, etc. At first I wanted to keep it and thought that I would regret removing it, but while doing the removal on my car I realized that I liked having all that sh*t gone from the underneath of my car. It really makes the undercarriage a lot simpler.
 

4ws removal cleaned up SO much sh*t from under there..

Im all done and sprayed everything.. take a look at how shitty it looks prior to the paint..
4bolt06.jpg

4bolt07.jpg


Sprayed the wheel wells as well as the suspension *bling*
wink.gif

4bolt08.jpg


Subframe painted w/ whiteline rear camber kit installed..
4bolt09.jpg


4bolt diff/cups/axles installed and ready to put back..
4bolt10.jpg


Sprayed everything underneath.. looks better than brown eh?
4bolt11.jpg


Suspension cleaned up, struts sprayed, and everything else
grin.gif

4bolt12.jpg

4bolt13.jpg

4bolt14.jpg
 

I was thinking about doing a 4bolt install/4ws elimination how-to with dropping the entire subframe included..

Here are some pics of the high pressure lines I got welded for the front rack..

caps01.jpg

caps02.jpg

caps03.jpg
 

Please tell me what tool you used to get hte lines out of the front rack with it still on the car.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
quote:Originally posted by Pivvay:
Please tell me what tool you used to get hte lines out of the front rack with it still on the car. I used a wrench, Chris
tongue.gif
.

I used an open end 14mm for the one on the left side and after cutting the tube coming out of the one on the right I used a 14mm socket over the cut tube.
 

quote:Originally posted by turbowop:
quote:Originally posted by Pivvay:
Please tell me what tool you used to get hte lines out of the front rack with it still on the car. I used a wrench, Chris
tongue.gif
.

I used an open end 14mm for the one on the left side and after cutting the tube coming out of the one on the right I used a 14mm socket over the cut tube.
Did you remove anything else in the way? If not I must just be an idiot.
frown.gif
I couldn't think of a way to get a damn wrench on them at all without removing more stuff. Of course it was 30 degrees out but still...
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Well, that small brace that is held on by five bolts along with the other crossmember that runs under the tranny were already off the car since I had the tranny pulled at the same time.
 

worthy.gif
non-4ws king

weigh everything that you removed and let us know how much.....or at least approx.
 

Chris I just took the crossmember out that runs along the xfer case. Thats the only thing I removed (even kept my downpipe in). I just cut the lines close to the fittings and used a deep 14mm socket to go over the lines, the fittings broke right loose.
wink.gif
 

quote:Originally posted by data_vr4:
worthy.gif
non-4ws king

weigh everything that you removed and let us know how much.....or at least approx.
Expect weight loss to be minimal and partially offset by the heavier 4 bolt rear.

Mark
 

weight loss is significant if you pull the rack and everything. I still haven't remembered to weigh it but my car is down 150 from last year and that's a big part of what I removed.
 

I'd bet that the rack and pump weigh less than 10lbs total. I'll weigh them tomorrow and tell you.

If someone can come up with 4 bolt rear diff and axle weights, I'll weigh one of my 3 bolts too.

Mark
 

The 4bolt diff w/ axles is alot heavier than the 3bolt diff w/ axles, just from lifting I can tell.
 

I would love accurate weights. I have been weighing everything myself but this stuff got left at the inlaws and I never remember to weigh it now. All I know is 150 lbs came from somewhere.

I think you can make a sub 3k GVR4 that doesn't look like a tin can if you want to. Mine is sub 3k now without me.
 
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