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dime store anti lag device

I mentioned this a while back, and decided to try it.. all i have to say is DAYUM!! It f***ing kicks major ass! When i first installed it, i turned up my DSBC-r to max and tried it... just to see what happens... 30psi sitting still is scary, even if it was only for a SPLIT SECOND before i let off!
 

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So what is it exactly? I missed your first post.

Paul

Like i said.. it's dime store.. ghetto, if you will. It's simply a button (mom. switch) that grounds the timing terminal and interrupts the logger cable, putting the car at 5*btdc. I have to release it just BEFORE dropping the clutch, but being able to make 22+ psi standing still is pretty damned cool! I don't really "need" it, having only a little evo III 16g turbo, but at least i know when i upgrade to a bigger turbo... i'll be able to spool that bitch! For now it's kind of a ricer mod, since i find it fun to blow fire and fuel out my tail pipe at asshole riceboys that talk sh*t on the "main drag" here... either way.. well worth the *1 hour/10ft of wire/G-GSsport steering button* it took for me to engineer and install the whole shebang.
 

the switch that seems to work best comes from cars with auto transmissions.. the PWR/ECO switch.. just take out the part that retains it in the down position, and wire it right.. it will interrupt the logger and ground the timing.. so you don't just go into idle set mode
 

Another benefit. You should destroy that 16G pretty quickly which will accelerate that turbo upgrade!
 

i dont use it much...

wire colors? eh.. hmm.. i could give you a schematic, i suppose.. it's pretty simple. i'll try and draw something up next week on my days off from work.

i also found harness plugs for the DLC port which can be commonly found at junkyards.. i'm thinking of building logger cables that are "plug and pray" already set up for anti-lag devices.. considering i can make logger cables from scratch now for about $well, i don't want to really say how insanely cheap (yes they work!)
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
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Location
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Picture, instructions etc. Please.

I'm thinking that this could be hooked up to a switch on the clutch. Kind of makes be think of my line lock idea on the clutch cable. You could hit the antilag button to activate then press the clutch, then line lock on the clutch, release the clutch, watch the christmas tree, release the line lock and watch the axles, tranny and rearend explode. Cool I want one
 

I thought about this six or seven years ago. The only problem I immediately saw with the clutch was that the clutch switch is a cut out, which meant that you couldn't use the switch directly to ground the timing connector wire. A relay would have to be used ( I know it's easy but I was too lazy ).

The drawback is it doesn't hold a specific rev (obviously) so to make any noticable boost you have to mash the gas and release the switch at the right time, or bounce it off the rev limiter.
 

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I thought about this six or seven years ago. The only problem I immediately saw with the clutch was that the clutch switch is a cut out, which meant that you couldn't use the switch directly to ground the timing connector wire. A relay would have to be used


Then use the cruise switch, it works the opposite way.
 

Actually i found that releasing the button at the same time as the clutch often causes me to bog a bit and run WAY rich for a sec.. slowing me down. It needs to be released JUST before the clutch is.

Like i said.. on my days off i'll put some time into a diagram and stuff. I'm off Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
 

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Then use the cruise switch, it works the opposite way.



That's not a bad idea - nice and inconspicuous. I would think the cruise would have to be removed for this (or you'd get 5* when trying to set your speed). Maybe I'm not thinking straight.

At any rate, the cure is www.dsmchips.com /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

I'm assuming that you GVR4 guys have the same clutch switches as I do in my '92 Talon. I used the lower clutch switch(factory used it for nuetral start/safe start) to wire the ground to my MSD staging rev limiter. I was hooking this up and was pissed off because this switch was naturally closed(cutout) and my local Radio Shack wasn't open at 3 a.m., so I started piddling around with it. I ended up taking the switch apart and reasembling it backwards as a naturally open switch. Not at all difficult to do! First unscrew it from the back of the pedal assebly, take a screwdriver or pointy fingers to it and disconnect the plastic cap from the metal base, slowly take it apart. Now you will see 4 pieces(1. ball 2. spring 3. pushbutton 4. lever). Take this out move the lever part to the other side of the terminal on the bottom of the metal case, put it back together and test it. I can't remember if I bent the lever just a little bit to make it work good or not(I don't remember doing it but it seems as if one may have to..) If you have a hard time picturing this trust me it makes a lot of sense when you take it apart and look at it. I typed all this from memory, but I did this very succesfully on a whim on night and about 40 minutes(solid 25 of it from screwing/unscrewing the damn switch), so it should be easy for anyone else to accomplish. I typed this all from memory, so I may have made a small mistake or two, but once you dive in you should understand what I intended.
 

The post before this one shows (quite possibly) a great way to rewire a switch to work the opposite way, but this would NOT work well for what i did with my car. You need to INTERRUPT the logger circuit.. this is VERY easy to do with an eco/power switch for auto transmissions. They fit nicely into a change slot near the mirror switch as well.

Like i said before.. i found that it needs to be released just before the clutch is released in order to keep things running properly. This switch/button.. interrupts the logger circuit while depressed.. and grounds the timing terminal at the same time as interrupting the logger circuit. When released, the logger circuit is reconnected/reactivated and the timing circuit is no longer grounded. You are quite literally shifting the ground for the logger to the timing terminal when pressing the button and reverting back to normal when released.

Either later today or tomorrow i will have some sort of diagram up, showing this in detail.. i may have pics up as well, of the current setup i have wired in.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Sounds interesting, waiting on diarams. Could using the bottom clutch switch work since it would be releasing right before the clutch engages? Or does it have to be sooner than that? Just a thought.

-Josh
 

Maybe.. i'm not sure.
I have to get some sleep though.. hopefully i will be up early enough to draw something up and take some pics.

I get home around 5am... it's nearly 7 now. I better get to bed before the sun starts comin' up!
 

Sorry, it was more of a response to what vertigo said above about the clutch switch being a cut out type switch, and not having the motivation to use it in conjunction with a relay to get it to work. Well that and I haven't had the opportunity to tell anybody about my cool little recycled switch yet.

You're talking like a dpst type switch/button then if I'm understanding you correctly? let's say you don't have a your logger hooked up to worry about the grounding issue there, does anybody have ideas that would involve a more automatic way than to make sure you let off before you let off the clutch? I imagine that after you reconnect the logger ground you would have to reach over and press the GO button(after letting off of the clutch at 30psi:s ), or can you log with it not grounded and just not be recieving data then the stream will start again?

Cory
 

I'll be working on the schematic as soon as i get outta the shower.. it'll be up soon!
 

Quote:
I'll be working on the schematic as soon as i get outta the shower.. it'll be up soon!



I'm willing to wait until you get some clothes on. I don't need the mental image.
 
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