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Battery Relocation to Trunk

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
I'm having some trouble with my battery relocation. Specifically, I can't get the damn wire from the engine bay into the passenger compartment. I'm trying to snake it through the hole under the fuse box (big rubber grommet) along side the shock tower and supposedly it comes out somewhere near the ECU.

So far I've managed to send it up into the A-pillar, and curled it up near the door hinges, but not out under the dash.

Anybody got some hints?

Thanks in advance.
 

I had the same problem when I did mine... I just ducked taped the wire to a stick (anything that is strong can be used) and I pushed the wire through with that....
smile.gif
It worked good for me, adn Im sure it will work for you... Good luck!!!

EDIT>>>> I actually used the old tie town bar from the battery...
smile.gif



Jason
 

Or if you own a uni-bit, drill a hole in the firewall just a tad bit larger than the power wire you plan to use.
 

Barnes

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Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
I actually routed my buddies power wire throught the shift cable grommet on his 93 talon. I pulled the shift cables out, and cut a hole in the big grommet where the cables go through. It was hard, but it seemed to work good.

Also, if you don't mind cutting a hole in your firewall, you could run a Bulkhead fitting. Other buddy did that on his talon.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Ryan, jack up the car, pull off the passenger front tire and pull the fender liner that goes along the top of the inside of the wheelwell. There is a *huge* grommet you can poke the wire through. It comes out just above the ecu. From there just run it through the interior of the car.
 

I ran the cable from the original, through the wire wall via the main harness grommet. It's a bit tight there and you want to be extremely careful pulling the wire through. There is also the A/C grommet, which is hard to reach from the inside of the car. Then there is the shifter cable grommet, which is more tricky because there is a metal bracket which retains that grommet. I would worry that any modification there may cause slop in the cables.

You could just break out whole saw.

Once through the fire wall, the routing is fairly easy. If you pull your carpet up on the drivers side, you will notice many nylon brackets which route wires to the rear of the car for brakes, ABS, fuel pump, ect. What's neat about this is that if you pull up the carpet on the passenger side you find many of the same nylon brackets. But on the passenger side, there aren't any wires running through them! It's the perfect route to the back and under the rear seat to the trunk. Pop the rear seat out and look under the carpet along the frame rails. You will see what I am talking about.

Hope this helps.
 

ken inn

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Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
7,529
Location
krum texas
quote: Ryan, jack up the car, pull off the passenger front tire and pull the fender liner that goes along the top of the inside of the wheelwell. There is a *huge* grommet you can poke the wire through. It comes out just above the ecu. From there just run it through the interior of the car. yup. that is the place. i am STILL running stuff thru there. i think you can stick your ARM thru the hole. it is perfect.
 

how are you guys tapping to the main harness up front> are you tapping to ground in the trunk? also are you just removing the pos. battery terminal end and srewing in the new harness.anyone have close up pics of there handy work in the engine compartment? thanks
 

Hertz

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Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
I ran my fuel pump rewire through that general area (fender liner) but I couldn't locate that giant grommet. It must be too big! I ended up drilling through down by the passenger footwell towards the fender.

Well, I'll give it another look today. I can't really run it any other way because I've got just enough of this 0-gauge wire.

OH yeah, the connector (thin copper) on the main broke off... it had a crack 1/2 way across the bend.
frown.gif


Thanks all!
 

blacksheep

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May 1, 2002
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15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
Hertz-dawg: Since I got mad luv for ya, I went out and started doing this. Here is what you do in pics...

1) Take off wheel...



2) Take off fender liner. Three bolts broke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" src="images/graemlins/mad.gif" /> Will use self tappers in the same area to hold it on, I guess..



3) Pass wire thru this hole first from engine bay side




4) This is the big ass grommet hole. Ummm...yeah, thats pretty cool. You could miss this..if you were Ray Charles or Steve Wonder, foo!



Before anyone asks why it looks all wet and shiny, I washed it after I took that liner off, I am allergic to dust and dirt. Yes, like turbowop! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif" title="" src="graemlins/applause.gif" />
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ran my batt cable through on the passenger side. I removed the washer bottle and drilled a hole through the firewall. It comes out behind the glove box.
Mike R.
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
You both rule.
grin.gif


Should I still try and ground the batt on the frame if I'm keeping my spare?
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Ryan, I have mine grounded to the shock tower. It works fine so long as you sand down the paint to bare metal to get good conductivity(sp?).

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Like turbowop I grounded mine to a shock tower bolt and have had no problems since. I was originally planning on going down to the frame, but the shock tower has worked perfect so I saw no reason to change it.

As you've probably heard, DO NOT ground on a bumper bolt. It seems like a great place, but does not work at all.

BTW: Nice set up turbowop.
applause.gif
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
Okay, I got the wire threaded through into the car, and I follow that nice little passthough in the forward seat rail -- now, how do I get around the seatbelt (auto) behind the passenger seat? I want to go over it (easy) but it looks like it could interfere with the belt. Anyone go under it?

Also, anyone (Mark?) have suggestions as to a good place to get terminals for 0 gauge?

Thanks for all your help guys. This board has been much more helpful since it changed servers.
wink.gif
 

blacksheep

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Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
5) Drop glovebox down by removing passengers side tab on it. Bust out the coathanger and poke a hole thru the grommet pictured above and feed coathanger thru all the way on the inside of the car behind glovebox. Then attach wire to coathanger using duct tape (red green is da man) and go back around to the fender well and start pulling...





6) peeka-boo! I See you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif" title="" src="graemlins/applause.gif" />

 
Last edited by a moderator:
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