Hi Boys, Girls, or What ever you define your gender as.
This is going to be a post to introduce my self with some questions mixed in there.
My title is Newbie, but I like to think Im a little bit more experienced then the regular noob
I am currently restoring a JDM 89 GVR4. When I say restoring, literally rebuilding the car from the ground up. I decided to do this after following all the general maintenance recommendations on the VR4 Forums - As everyone should when buying an older car - But I have an itch for speed..
So far I have the Engine out, Front & Rear subframes out, The underbody completely stripped and I am just prepping for sand blasting to remove what ever little specs of rust there are on the seams. I am starting to think about ripping out the interior on this GVR4 because if I am going to go this balls too the wall then maybe I should just double check that no rust has made its way in there.. I don't believe it has , and theirs no sign it has but Its better to be safe, then sorry, Right !?
I have been around the block with rust on multiple other cars in my teenage years. I restored the body and frame rails on a 1976 Lincoln Continental Mark 3, I repaired and re-skinned a 1990s FoxBody Mustang roof.
(A pillars that were clearly way to gone but I think my teacher was letting me get some practice when thinking about it in hindsight).
These were my mechanics teacher's personal cars but he trusted me quite a bit, and for what I believe were good reasons. I showed a lot of initiative in the mechanics class and welding class, trying to learn everything possible & ultimately in the books every night about mechanics, auto-body and welding.
By the time grade 12 rolled around the guy gave me quite a bit of responsibility in the class, but ultimately free will to do whatever I want after spending a period each day helping him and other newer students.
I Bought my first car and it was A R32 Nissan Skyline R32 Type M, Bought a Second one after almost dying from the Hi-Cas System & Now here I am with the JDM GVR4. As you can tell I have a thing for Japanese Cars
You can see the car and what it looked like in its full glory when the owner imported it to Alberta, Canada :
Sadly I didn't get alot of the cool things that the car was being sold with the car back then. All I have now is the turbo timer and Apexi Exhaust, I may have the EVO Brakes but it doesn't seem like it.. Ill have to do some research..
It was pretty cool finding for the for sale ad on my car way back from 2009, about the time when I was a wee little gaffer and not even thinking about what I wanted to do with my life. ( I am 21 Years Old Now )
Anyways, I have rebuilt the Galant's 6-bolt 4G63T and am starting on the reinforcing of the chassis, Front and Rear Subframes.
Here's what I have done so far.
All new OEM parts for the valve train and timing assembly.
ARP Head Bolts
4G63T Cometic Gasket Kit
Basically I refreshed the motor that was at 93,XXX Km and everything seemed fine besides being 30 years old.
After running that for 500-1000 Kilometers I decided that I wanted to invest into the chassis and making it fast and something I could enjoy and be proud of when I go on spirited drives.
I am shooting for a reliable 500HP , I have the stage 3 transmission on its way, and will be looking at upgrading the transfer-case & transmission with Billet Bracing and a stage 3 Transfer case
Thing's I need/think I have to do :
(please chime in if you have any recommendations or see any problems with my plans too reach this HP goal !)
Stage 3 transmission
Stage 3 Transfer Case
Billet reinforcing for Transmission and Transfercase
New Drive Shafts..? ( Ill probably need something customs..Right? LOL)
Reinforce Sub Frames
All new poly bushings
Reinforce / Fabricate Stiffer Chassis Frame rails
Fender Reinforcement Brace
Stich Weld Chassis and All seams
Seam Sealant on all Seams
CV Axle upgrades? ( I haven't done much research on what the CV's breaking point is at )
Diff Upgrade? ( Would I need to be look at getting after market 1.5/ 2 way cusco diff?
Delete 4WS ( Make a lock out bar and call it good, or is there a better route on doing this?)
After market Power Steering Reservoir? ( Or should I just block off the 4WS Lines from stock?)
Fuel System Upgrades ( What injectors, fuel pump & Fuel rail is recommended for the goal?)
Custom Solid Brake Lines
Big Brakes ( I wanna keep the 16inch rim but I am doubting that any brake upgrade could accommodate that..)
Am I required to upgrade the Master Brake Cylinder?
Stainless Braided Lines everywhere possible
Link G4+ Galant ECU
Extend Wiring harness for wire tuck / clean engine bay
Bottom End Rebuild? Do I need to stroke the engine for this goal ?
Big Turbo - I was planning on a 16G but I believe there max hp is 300-350, Any Recommendations ?
Intake Manifold? I would like to keep the cyclone intake but would it even be efficient at this power goal?
Clutch Master & Slave Upgrade ( Evo 3 slave and master would be good? )
Act clutch.. Not sure what one yet..
Rear 4 Bolt Swap
I am 95% Sure that I am missing/overlooked quite a few things that would be required for this goal.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have always been into the JDM Nissan vehicles but making a leap over to the Mitsubishi and DSM so my apologizes on my lack of knowledge in some areas.
As I get deeper into this build I will have some parts to sell but will be waiting to reach a different rank so I will be allowed to post into the selling section so keep any eye out for that
CV Axle upgrades? = Look to DriveShaftShop for rear CV axles, even high hp guys aren't breaking the fronts much, but even so, stock rears (if 4 bolt diff and axles) are plenty fine for 500hp.
Diff Upgrade? = Just get a 4 bolt diff and axles out of 91-94 Eclipse/Talon/Laser AWD. Your's is most likely a 3 bolt diff.
Delete 4WS ( Make a lock out bar and call it good, or is there a better route on doing this?) = Simplest way is just plugging lines or ports on the rack. There are a few writeups in the how to section or technical section. The Factory 4WS only moved the toe in 1.5 degrees either direction. If you want to get rid of any play off those toe bushings, then search "dsm active toe eliminator" to get what you need. Most of us don't have 4WS in our cars, it only activate above 30mph to begin with anyway. 90-94 AWD DSMs had essentially "Passive" 4WS, they just called it "Active Toe", but that is essentially what it was, since their rear subframes are pretty much identical minus the mounting points for the rear rack.
After market Power Steering Reservoir? ( Or should I just block off the 4WS Lines from stock?) Just get one from a DSM or another 6g fwd galant.
Talk to Joshua Jones at JNZ, they do have a ABS delete kit however it is meant for LHD vehicles, but you could talk to him about making one for a RHD car.
Alright, you need to just chillax a bit, going a bit overboard on some of the other stuff you wonder about upgrading lol. Stock Clutch and Slave MCs are fine as is, as well as there isn't much to delete on the stock engine harness as everything is actually used. You may find yourself removing only a couple plugs, but that's really it. If you have 16s on the car, they aren't stock (stock is 15x6 +44) and being that it is a 89 you probably have single piston calipers. That's easy enough to upgrade to USDM GVR4/93-94 DSM two piston calipers otherwise looking at something like TCE for a wilwood kit will bump you up to 17s. These engines are known for making upwards of 500hp on stock internals, however if it's tired a rebuild with aftermarket internals. However it's not like a Nissan where you might need to stroke to make a mere 500hp.
Most whp made on a 16g, was 436whp on E85 with a Evo 3 16g, however ever since the Earthquake/Tsunami over Japan...their prices skyrocketed due to not enough supply for the demand at the time. Most folks have moved onto Holsets, Garrett GT30+ and PTE turbos for making bigger hp. As for the Cyclone intake? If it still works its great low end torque acceleration, but honestly not really worth to keep it imo in today's world. Replacement parts don't exist and the gasket for the that two part manifold haven't been available for over 10yrs.
If you do your research you will be fine, there is a lot of good tech on here and dsmtuners as well and will serve you well. If you have to ask for GVR4 specific aftermarket parts like a FMIC and piping kit? You are on your own, there is nothing available stateside anymore, specifically for the VR4. But Read, read, read until your eyes bleed, then read some more, before you do something.
Where is this stage 3 transmission coming from? As with 500hp and any heavy abuse, you enter into drivetrain breakage territory.
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