**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/30/11 01:40 PM
1517's thread ***More pics added 12/31***

Well, the engine in the car is getting bad enough that it is having a real hard time starting. I've pulled down my other engine, and have mixed feelings with what I've found. The pistons were supposed to be Evo 8 pistons, and they are just stock 1G pistons. The plus side is that the engine is in incredibly good shape. The cross hatch on the cylinders is like brand new. I'll locate an Elantra 1.8 head and rebuild that to gain a bit of CR and reassemble it with some ARP head studs and a MLS gasket. Shouldn't be too much longer and she be running good again.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
02/01/11 02:57 PM
Re: 1517 update

Need my mls gasket.... lmk

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/20/11 02:38 AM
Re: 1517 update

The old engine came out of the car today. Goes down as one of the smoothest engine pulls I've ever performed. There's a few things I'd like some suggestions on.

First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?

Second, I want to restore working PS to my car. The 4WS is gone. I've been told the GVR4 rack has a tighter ratio than a T/E/L rack. Is this true? I need to decide if I'm going to have mine rebuilt or turn it in as a core for a 1G rack.

I have an RRE "no-name" flywheel now, but I'm considering a fidanza. Its kinda out of my budget, so do you think it would be worth it?


mitsuturbo
(Banthony )
03/20/11 04:22 AM
Re: 1517 update

Regarding a six puck solid hub... that's what i've been running for YEARS. There are a couple things that wear with these that may not wear as badly with a sprung hub. One thing is the input sleeve on the Tcase. The splines take a beating. Another thing that has happened to me after running one hard for about a year, is the splines in the hub actually stripped out. I've seen this happen to others as well. I've also seen a lot of used solid hub discs that have a lot of slop in the splines, and it's only a matter of time before they strip out. Fortunately, the input shaft in the trans is very strong, and i've seen no wear there that would be a concern.

It sure is better than tossing springs, and i can't seem to get a sprung hub to last an entire year, so i have always felt that the solid hub is the way to go, but as with anything, they do have their own issues.


DynastyLCD
(Dissapointing Member)
03/20/11 09:49 AM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

The old engine came out of the car today. Goes down as one of the smoothest engine pulls I've ever performed. There's a few things I'd like some suggestions on.

First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?






my 1g put down close to 400 awhp on a 6 puck unsprung/2100/light flywheel. it held up to about 8 thousand miles of 25-30 psi through a 3052 on the daily basis for DD duty. i pulled it out to put my twin disc in, and it looks fine. never slipped once.


Struc
(Not all filled in)
03/20/11 01:58 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?





How much HP are you going to be putting down? I've got a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch in both of my cars, and have been extremely pleased. The one in my Spyder has lasted nearly 100k miles now. Pedal force is as light as stock, but still has great grip. It's not for drag racing a 350hp car, but if you're keeping it near stock, up to 300hp, it will serve you very well.

Quote:


Second, I want to restore working PS to my car. The 4WS is gone. I've been told the GVR4 rack has a tighter ratio than a T/E/L rack. Is this true? I need to decide if I'm going to have mine rebuilt or turn it in as a core for a 1G rack.




The turning ratio is the same from everything I have read. Just watch out to NOT get an Automatic T/E/L rack, as they do not have as tight of a ratio as the manual cars. Given the price for a rebuilt rack (check Ebay too), it's a no-brainer.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/21/11 01:06 AM
Re: 1517 update

Thanks for the info guys.

As for the centerforce, I plan on making at least 300 hp, hopefully more, to the ground, and with plenty of abuse. I don't think it'll hold up. But I hear people talking about Clutchnet and southbend, and apparently some XTD (ebay) clutch that works. I just don't know what buy.

As for the rest of the car, I cut out the remnants of the 4WS lines today and yanked the ABS motor and lines. I also removed the transverse crossmember up near the radiator and knocked the bushings out of it so some energy suspension ones can go in. I started unbolting all of the stuff mounted to the firewall and strut towers so I can clean and paint the engine compartment.

Another question came up though. I pulled the non-ABS lines and proportioning valve from a junkyard car too long ago to remember the arrangement of the lines between the M/C and the valve. Mine got slightly distorted so holding up doesn't help either. My question is whether it matters (if you are standing in front of the car) if the front port on the MC goes to the left or right side of the valve, and the same for the rear port on the MC. I really don't want my brakes to not work.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/21/11 01:22 AM
Re: 1517 update

Another question about the racks. If I go with a 1G rack, is it a good idea to get the rack to subframe bushings from a 1G too? I know that the extra lines associated with the 4WS racks are supported on one side with the rack bushing. I'm afraid that the voids created from the rack lines not being there will cause the GVR4 rack bushing to allow a 1G rack some "wiggle" room under the stresses caused from cornering, therefore causing inconsistencies in handling.

Struc
(Not all filled in)
03/21/11 11:37 AM
Re: 1517 update

There is still a crossover tube that runs from one side of the rack to the other on the T/E/L rack. I doubt the one open hole would make much difference. OTOH, they don't cost too much, so it's not a horrible idea to 'refresh' them.

PreskitVR4
(Member +)
03/21/11 10:47 PM
Re: 1517 update

+1 on centerforce. Built motor, 20g, AEM, two-step, aggressively driven. The one and only time I will ever drag race, I was pulling down 1.6 60 foot times with a 5500 rpm launch. I will never run anything else!

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/23/11 10:55 PM
Re: 1517 update

After talking with Jack and Kevin at Jack's Transmission's, I've decided to simply get a solid hub 6-puck and run my existing 2600 PP. I'm going this weekend to drop my trans off so he can fix it. I'm going to take my flywheel and PP to him also, because he has a guy that he uses for flywheel resurfacing that has built a jig to mount a flywheel/disc/pressure plate combo to and essentially test the release point of the pressure plate. This allows him to "fine tune" the cut on the flywheel to ensure the disc isn't dragging at higher rpm's, while still allowing for optimal clamping force while the foot is off of the pedal.

I've also figured out the arrangement of the lines between the brake M/C and the proportioning valve for the ABS delete. The front port of the M/C goes to the passenger side port of the valve and the rear port goes to the driver side.

I've talked with my cylinder head guy and he says my head should be done by the end of this week so I'm getting excited. I still have to source a new P/S rack and get some subframe bushings installed, get my DP drilled and welded with the bung for the wideband, and a few other things, but its coming together.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/24/11 09:29 PM
Re: 1517 update

Cylinder head guy said the head is ready. YES!!!!

I have a another question. This is going to be a matter of opinion. Who, given the opportunity, would take the time to cut the old, brittle, faded wire loom off of the harness and replace it? I've got atleast fifty feet each of various sizes (in black, not red or blue or some crap) and a big part of me wants to do it, but another part of me says "what a PITA, is it really worth it?" So is it really worth it? I have to partially dig into the harness anyway, some connectors are broken or missing, and I'm swapping in the "quick release" injector clips.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/27/11 12:54 AM
Re: 1517 update

Picked up my cylinder head, rod and main bearings, and ARP head studs late Friday afternoon. I then took the ~short~ drive from my house to Colorado Springs (70 miles) to drop my transmission off at Jack's. If any of you have been following them, then you'll know they switched locations and their new building is pretty sick. Talk about walking into Mitsubishi Heaven. But I digress...

I spent most of the day scrubbing parts and my engine compartment, after which I immediately proceeded to empty 5 cans of Gloss Black spray paint to freshen up said items. Gotta love the look of fresh paint. I'll be picking black boogers for a while, but "new" parts are awesome.

I also put the new subframe bushings in.

Tomorrow's plans include making a junkyard run to look for a decent 1G rack, and a DSM P/S reservoir cap, because it doesn't appear that the GVR4 cap fits a DSM reservoir. There will probably be a trip to Greeley also, not sure yet, but I'm planning on it.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
03/27/11 10:38 PM
Re: 1517 update

Check, check,check it out, making headway. ... if you are round these parts I'm not out til at least 5

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/27/11 11:24 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

Cylinder head guy said the head is ready. YES!!!!

I have a another question. This is going to be a matter of opinion. Who, given the opportunity, would take the time to cut the old, brittle, faded wire loom off of the harness and replace it? I've got atleast fifty feet each of various sizes (in black, not red or blue or some crap) and a big part of me wants to do it, but another part of me says "what a PITA, is it really worth it?" So is it really worth it? I have to partially dig into the harness anyway, some connectors are broken or missing, and I'm swapping in the "quick release" injector clips.



I haven't done it yet but I have to say yes go for the wiring harness rewire. Hell, if you have the engine out of the car its easy to get in there.

Only part that is a pain is if you still have the dash in.

DR1665 passed along a good idea to me, hope he doesn't mind if I pass it along, get a large flat piece of wood, like 1/8 of an inch thick by like 4 ft by 4 ft and drill some screws into it to the shape of how the harness snakes and then just mimic that with new wiring. Of course label all the clips and then label each wire end and then clip and transfer them one by one. Who knows, it may not be as bad as you think and much like anything with these old cars you will probably be glad you did it after you are done because honestly, that wiring bit is probably the most tedious part of rebuilding one of these cars.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/28/11 01:57 AM
Re: 1517 update

^^^^^, I was just talking about removing all the old loom, the black plastic "wrap" over the actual wiring. I'm not going to rewire the whole car. I have a whole spare harness, if need be, I'll just swap it in. But that is a great idea...

I had some good luck at the junkyard today too. Picked up a rack for 40 bucks, another hyundai V/C with bolts, a couple DSM p/s caps, and some stuff for my S-10. Then I sold some old parts on craigslist, which effectively made everything I got today free. I finished the day +$11.

Sorry Diego, you never hit me up, so I thought you didn't need my help anymore. I can head up there next weekend though, just let me know.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
03/28/11 07:59 PM
Re: 1517 update

All good I need to get my pay still from the dealership, waiting on these people to be financed is a headache.... only thing that sucks about a dealership is working 100% commission....

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/31/11 08:56 PM
Re: 1517 update

This whole working 5 days a week thing sucks. I'd be driving her by now if only I was able to dedicate all of my time...

But I talked to Jack's, the transmission needed a bunch of parts, kinda surprised about that. They are awesome though, giving me a great deal to get it back to tip-top shape. I should have it back by the middle of next week, which also surprised me, I expected a bit longer.

Nobody else wants to throw their two cents in on my wiring loom question? I will probably end up doing it, because now is the best time to get it done, plus I'll be able to tuck away some unused connectors and such.

I will be pulling my old subframe/rack/control arms this weekend, painting the rest of my parts, and then I'll start reassembly. I am aiming for mid-May to see her move under her own power again.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
04/03/11 03:46 PM
Re: 1517 update

Spent a long time on the car yesterday. Its been said before, and it'll get said again, but anti-seize is a good thing. On the passenger side of the car, the control arm to subframe mounting bolt was seized solid in the hole. I managed to save the control arm, but the subframe is scrap metal now. I had to cut the mounting ear off so I could cut through the bolt. Then I had to press the bushing out of the control arm. Its a good thing to have spare parts. I felt a million times better about all of it knowing full well that I had another subframe and another set of control arms. Now I have to order another set of control arm bushings, but no big deal.

It turns out that loom I have isn't as big as I thought, so the larger diameter sections of wiring haven't been touched, but I have re-covered the smaller bundles. I have reattached the harness to the engine bay, put back all of the brake parts, installed my other subframe, with the poly bushings, and hung up a couple random brackets.

I sent my torque wrench out to get recalibrated, and it isn't done yet(its amazing how 10 days turns into 3+ weeks), so I'm waiting on assembling the engine.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
04/15/11 02:05 PM
Re: 1517 update

Still waiting on my torque wrench...

I'm ordering a bunch of goodies tonight. Control arm and sway bar bushings, tial MVS wastegate w/ appropriate o2 housing, braided stainless oil drain tube, oil cooler kit, aeromotive AFPR w/ install kit, and an upgraded fuel supply line. Oooooooooooh I'm so excited...

I took last weekend off from wrenching, as my normal weekly routine of laundry/house cleaning/relaxation had been ignored for too long. I plan on breaking out the soldering iron and the heat shrink this weekend though, and wiring in my guages, safc, new injector clips, MAFT, and the lights for my jdm fenders.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
04/28/11 10:15 PM
Re: 1517 update

I've been slacking.

But there has been some progress. The control arms, 1G rack, swaybar, and P/S lines are back in the car. I installed all new bushings and ball joints on the arms and new bushings and end links on the swaybar. My tie rods were swapped from the GVR4 rack to the 1G rack because they aren't very old, and in fantastic shape still. I can't believe how much of a PITA the swaybar bushings were. I had to gain the assistance of a buddy with some giant channel lock pliers to squeeze those bastards against the subframe just to get the bolts started. But I've been anti-siezing stuff this time around, just in case I have to take it apart again. Still bummed that I had to cut up a perfectly good subframe.

I have my torque wrench back finally, so I've put the crank back in and put the head on. I loosely hung my new FP exh mani and FP green on as well and it looks so good. I'm supposed to get my O2 housing and Tial MV-S WG by monday which very well might lead to me crying tears of joy followed by hyperventilating and passing out. I still get retarded excited about cool parts.

I found out that one of my fender lights was burnt out, so I went down to the Radioshack and snagged some 5mm white LED bulbs and a couple of resisters and made LED JDM fender lights. I decided while I was at it that I'd drill out the green plastic inside the light housings and I painted the LED with amber model paint to make the lights as legal as possible. Being a CDL holding driver has definitely made me try to avoid unnecessary encounters with the "5-O".

My neighbor has donated a ZEX dry kit to the cause, which I initially said "thanks, but no thanks" to. I proceeded to explain to him that my new turbo is fully capable of exploring the horsepower limits of my engine on its own, and nitrous would simply accelerate the certain demise of said engine. He countered by saying "well, we'll build an intercooler sprayer out of it then". To which I said "F-Yeah!". So I have that to mount up also.

I'm looking at somewhere in the ballpark of $900-1200 of parts and services (alignment, tuning, etc.) remaining to get her back on the ground and self propelled again. I guestimate that I'm in the realm of $20k-$25k invested since day one on this car, which is almost 6 years ago now. Everyone keeps telling me that I could've bought a brand new car for that price, and I tell them that they're boring. They tell me that I'm crazy. I say they're probably right.


AnotherNewb
(flutterdumper)
04/28/11 11:28 PM
Re: 1517 update

With you zex nos kit, why not set it up the way drifters do, an rpm activated window switch with a pressure cut off switch. That way your juice is only on until your turbo is spooled up. Say buh bye turbo lag.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
04/29/11 01:11 PM
Re: 1517 update

That thought did cross my mind. But since I'm already over budget and nitrous was never in the plans to begin with, I'm going to stick with the IC sprayer. I do suppose that it could be a option in the future though.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
04/29/11 09:11 PM
Re: 1517 update

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha! My parts came today! I AM SO HAPPY!!!!

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/02/11 02:43 AM
Re: 1517 update

The wrenches were a-turnin' this weekend! I really wish I had a computer to throw some pics up with. I feel like I this thread would be much, much better if I had pics to help tell the story, but anyhow...

I mounted up my MAPerformance O2 housing and Tial MV-S wastegate and it looks like it'll all fit just fine with a fullsize radiator. Hats off to MAperformance as well, because this O2 housing is a B.E.A.Utiful piece. Craftsmanship appears to be second to none. Because this WG has provisions for water cooling, I spent a bit of time fabricating some cooling lines for it as well. I'm really happy with how the feed line turned out, but the return line still has some hurdles to overcome. I'm not quite sure yet where I'm going to plumb it back into the system. Logic says that I should just direct it to the original port on the water pipe that acted as the return for the factory "sandwich" style oil cooler, and I imagine that's where I'll end up putting it, but another part of me wants to tap directly into the water pump. I suppose I like to make shit hard sometimes...

I mounted up the new AFPR, and for simplicity I mounted it off of an existing unused bolt hole in the firewall. This, however, means that it is mounted a little lower than what would be ideal for viewing of the pressure gauge. I decided to plug the gauge port on the AFPR, and drilled and tapped my fuel rail to mount the gauge onto it instead. I think I prefer the looks of the AFPR without the gauge anyway, because the gauge made the regulator look huge to me.

Aside from actually mounting the bottle, I have the I/C sprayer completely mocked up and hidden as well as is reasonably possible. I lines are all tucked underneath other components and the solenoid is going to be mounted behind the coolant reservoir. I prefer some things go unnoticed to people who don't have a clue, and this is certainly one of those things.

My new oil cooler was kind of a beech to find a good home for, as the size and shape is considerably different from my old one. I did manage to make it fit inside the void left from the ABS motor delete though, down inside the bumper. I fab'd up a couple of brackets and hung it in there.


AnotherNewb
(flutterdumper)
05/02/11 01:32 PM
Re: 1517 update

Sounds awesome. If you wanted to you could email or text me your pics and I would gladly post them up for you.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/02/11 11:47 PM
Re: 1517 update

AnotherNewb, your offer is greatly appreciated. But I figured I should throw up something better than cell phone pics. So I ran over to a friends house and borrowed his computer.

Ok folks, here's some pics.



This photo shows my AFPR mounted, the DSM clutch reservoir, Non-ABS proportioning valve, non-cruise throttle cable.



This image shows the general state of disassembly of the car.



An "aerial" view of the engine. You can see the fuel gauge mounted on the fuel rail, FP exh mani, Hyundai V/C.



This shows the FP Green, O2 housing and Tial MV-S wastegate, the WG water feed line that I fab'd.


Another view of the wastegate with the water line.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/03/11 12:00 AM
Re: 1517 update

And some more.


There's the NOS solenoid for the I/C sprayer, taken during the mock up stage.



Here is a pic of the nitrous rail we (my neighbor and I) made for the I/C sprayer.



This shows the new oil cooler mounted up. The brackets aren't finished yet.



I just like this pic. There's nothing like staring into the snout of a big turbo.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 02:17 AM
Re: 1517 update

There's a few new things to update.

First of all, I'm an idiot. I went to bolt up the OFH, tightened the wrong bolt first, and cracked the damn thing.

And I forgot to set the block on the bench after putting the crank back in, which means that I forgot to put the rear main seal and retaining plate on, and now I have enough stuff hanging off of the engine that setting it on the bench by hand isn't really an option now. I guess I'll try to weasel it in there, otherwise I'm going to have to hook up the hoist and attach it with the engine in the air.

Also, I snapped the heads off of three turbo bolts. I've never had that happen before, let alone three times in a row. I've picked up some freshies from the dealer so hopefully they'll work.


OMFGeofffff
(All I want is a dodgy)
05/04/11 03:15 AM
Re: 1517 update

I see something wrong with all your pictures. Where's all the dirt and oil? Too clean haha.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
05/04/11 04:27 PM
Re: 1517 update

turning out good Justin. Keep it up brosif.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 06:25 PM
Re: 1517 update

Oh there was plenty of it Jeff, trust me. And thanks Diego

PreskitVR4
(Member +)
05/04/11 08:26 PM
Re: 1517 update

I have that same Hyundai V/C, my CAS had some clearance issues. have you heard of this prob? a friend of mine offered to put ot in his end mill and shave a bit for me, was wondering first if anyone else had the same issue.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 08:54 PM
Re: 1517 update

Not yet, but I haven't tried bolting the CAS up yet. Are you running the proper bolts for that V/C? The only thing I can think is that you don't have the correct shouldered bolts and the valve cover isn't locating itself on the head correctly because of it.

PreskitVR4
(Member +)
05/04/11 08:58 PM
Re: 1517 update

i do have the correct bolts, i was lucky enough to pull it myself @ the junkyard.... paid 15 bucks

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 09:07 PM
Re: 1517 update

Here is a current mod list for my car.

Engine:

.5mm oversized stock pistons
Stock reconditioned rods
Stock STD/STD crankshaft
ACL race bearings
BSE w/ OEM parts
MHI gasket set
MHI MLS head gasket
Stock rebuilt cylinder head
ARP head studs
Hyundai "smooth" valve cover
Stock intake manifold
NA throttle body
FP race exhaust manifold
FP Green turbocharger


Exhaust:

MAPerformance O2 housing
TiAL MV-S wastegate
2.5" downpipe
3" cat or test pipe
3" cat back
3" Magnaflow dual tip muffler


Intake and Intercooler:

K+N air filter
3" intake pipe
2.5" hotside piping
24"x12"x3" core, 3" in and out
3" cold side piping
3" GM MAF
Turbo XS Type H-RFL bov
Intercooler nitrous sprayer


Electronics and fuel:

GM MAFT
SAFC2
Keydiver ECU w/ chip
HKS turbo timer
AEM Tru Boost
Glowshift oil pressure gauge
Glowshift WBO2
Glowshift EGT
FIC 750cc injectors
Fuelab remote AFPR
Walbro 255 lph pump, rewired
Modified stock fuel rail
Liquid filled fuel pressure gauge

Cooling:

Stock radiator
OEM thermostat
Aftermarket 12" "pusher" fan
Aftermarket 10" "pusher" fan
6"x11"x1" oil cooler
-8 AN oil cooler lines
1990 DSM oil filter housing


Transmission:

Jack's build
DSM gearset
1st and 2nd double synchro
4-spider diff


Remaining drivetrain:

Prothane engine/trans mounts
Competition Clutch Stage 5 PP
4 puck unsprung disc
RRE "no name" flywheel
3/4" bore slave
Braided clutch flex hose
OEM rebuilt master
DSM reservoir
4-bolt rear diff
1G rear subframe
5-lug conversion
Filled carrier bearings
Torque Solution carrier bushings


Steering:

4WS delete
DSM front steering rack
DSM reservoir


Brakes/wheels:

Stock rotors
Stock calipers
ABS delete
Stainless braided flex lines
4G Eclipse 17x7.5 five spoke
225/50R17 Bridgestone Potenza

Suspension:

Stock springs
Monroe struts
Stock swaybars
Poly front subframe bushings
Poly front control arm bushings
Poly front swaybar bushings
Poly rear endlink bushings


Exterior:

93 headlights
DIY amber corners
JDM fenders
Notorious bumper mod


Misc.:

Trunk mounted Optima battery
Lots of additional ground straps
Grant steering wheel
Cruise control delete
Emissions delete (minus cat)
A/C delete


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 09:08 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting PreskitVR4:

i do have the correct bolts, i was lucky enough to pull it myself @ the junkyard.... paid 15 bucks




Damn, that's a steal. They charged me 30 for mine.


PreskitVR4
(Member +)
05/04/11 09:11 PM
Re: 1517 update

there are 3 or 4 more still around.....

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/04/11 09:13 PM
Re: 1517 update

I figure 2 is enough, a couple weeks later I picked up another

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/06/11 12:40 AM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting PreskitVR4:

I have that same Hyundai V/C, my CAS had some clearance issues. have you heard of this prob? a friend of mine offered to put ot in his end mill and shave a bit for me, was wondering first if anyone else had the same issue.




Well PreskitVR4, I looked at both of my Hyundai valve covers and I see what you are refering to now. It appears the the area surrounding the bolt closest to the crankcase vent tube is protruding out towards the CAS mounting area. I will probably just kiss my valve cover with a sanding disc and an angle grinder to alleviate the issue. Good catch though, I'm not sure I would have noticed it otherwise.


PreskitVR4
(Member +)
05/06/11 09:57 AM
Re: 1517 update

trust me, you would have noticed when it came time to install the CAS

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/09/11 02:31 AM
Re: 1517 update

The timing belt and water pump are now on the motor, as well as the throttle body. I've finalized the water lines for the wastegate, and welded up the unused ports on the water pipe. Right now my biggest hurdle is money. The nickel and dime stage is here in all its fury. Clamps, hoses, fluids, nuts and bolts, filters, belts, miscellaneous gaskets, etc, all add up fast. But once next weekend rolls around the motor and trans should *hopefully* be in the car again. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/15/11 12:43 AM
Re: 1517 update

Damn it got cold in the Denver area today. I had to call off the late night wrench session I had planned. I did work on it until about 7 though, and I will definitely have the engine in the car tomorrow. I have the compressor housing out with a friend. He is modifying the outlet to better serve my piping needs, and it should be back by in my hands around noon tomorrow. Once its back, the exhaust manifold/turbo assembly will be bolted on for the last time, and then the motor is coming of of the engine stand.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
05/15/11 03:17 PM
Re: 1517 update

Lookin good man

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/16/11 12:52 AM
Re: 1517 update

Hey thanks GSX_TC. This is the first time in the nearly 6 years that I've owned this car that I've been able to take my time and make sure things are exactly how I want them. I'm glad that the few of y'all who have commented are leaving positive remarks.

As it were, today wasn't nearly as productive as it could have been, but life happens. I did, however, accomplish my goal of having the engine/trans back in the car, and I'm really happy with how my compressor housing fits with the modifications that were made. It isn't the most ideal of sitituations when overall flow is being considered, but the Galant engine compartment isn't the most ideal of situations when it comes to space. I have some phone pics that can go up if someone is willing (AnotherNewb?).

It does feel great having made it this far, and now the goal is to turn the key next weekend. With all of the little stuff that still needs done, it'll be several weeks until I can call this round of mods complete, but I should be able to take her around the block sooner than later.

This list is off of the top of my head, but here is what is remaining to do BESIDES the engine install.

Attach brackets for rear bushing on front control arms.

Bleed brake system

Install custom made pod for gauges, and install the gauges.

Wire in SAFC2.

Re-do battery tray in trunk. -DONE

Move fans from old radiator to new one.

Make the oil cooler lines. -DONE

Make the fuel feed and return lines. -DONE

Make a new, less gawdy air box for I/C.

Fab up new filter to turbo inlet pipe.

Wire fender lights and reinstall fenders.

Install bottle for I/C sprayer

Install new "coupler" in t-case

Finish brackets for oil cooler. -DONE

Take to dyno for tuning.

And probably more that I can't think of right now.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
05/16/11 07:39 PM
Re: 1517 update

Dam your really making progress man

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/19/11 12:22 PM
Re: 1517 update



I knew this whole thing was going way to smooth. I started tinkering with some stuff last night and realized that one of my shift cables was broken. So I'm looking at one more thing left to get done. I don't even care about the money anymore, because at this point another couple hundred bucks is such a small fraction of what I've already invested, buying new cables feels about like buying lunch. I'm just going to do it, cause I'm hungry, and if I don't do it, I won't get to eat. I need to eat, my friend's 436 awhp 2G, and my neighbor's 582 fwhp Honda Civic, and Evo's and STi's will be the appetizer.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
05/19/11 08:16 PM
Re: 1517 update

Haha you have a big appetite hey man there people on here always selling shifter cables for real cheap rather then paying over a hundred bucks

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/19/11 08:44 PM
Re: 1517 update

I thought about used. I actually have a set. But used when these cars are this old doesn't seem appealing. I don't want to do this again in six months, let alone hurt my transmission again because I cheaped out.

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
05/19/11 09:28 PM
Re: 1517 update

Six months? I've had mine in my cars for years and years with no problems. But it's your money

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/20/11 09:47 AM
Re: 1517 update

It is because I know how I drive. I am the kind of guy that will grenade parts just to beat some idiot that caught me sleeping at the line with his Ford Escort ZX2. I was showing off for a friend the first time I snapped an axle. I've put brand new clutches in just to go out and launch the shit out of the car. I'm just saying that if I put used cables in, chances are they are going to have over a 100k on them already, and I'll kill them pretty quick. If I put new ones in, I should definitely get years of worry free service out of them.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/22/11 10:50 PM
Re: 1517 update

I spent all of saturday working on my POS s-10, it has to squeak through emissions again. But today, I made some headway on the car. I made all of the stainless lines (fuel and oil cooler), remounted the battery in a better tray in the trunk, ran a ground from the engine all the way back to the battery, installed several more ground straps throughout the engine compartment, punched two holes in the trunk for the nitrous and the ground, tied up the ground and the nitrous line under the car, mounted the nitrous solenoid (finally), installed the Torque Solution driveshaft carrier bearing support bushings, plugged in some more of the factory harness, and hooked up the speedo cable and other little things.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
05/23/11 03:31 AM
Re: 1517 update



**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
05/24/11 01:44 AM
Re: 1517 update

Took the day off of work with plans on taking my pickup to emissions and then working on the car some more. Well after 3 trips to the E-test station and spending all day tweaking on the truck to get it to pass, I hardly felt like wrenching on the car too. I did get my shift cables ordered though.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/02/11 01:42 AM
Re: 1517 update

Updates Justin...

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/04/11 02:38 PM
Re: 1517 update

Sorry have broken my old phone and it has taken me this long to get a new one. I will definetely be posting more later, as there is much to tell.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/05/11 04:26 AM
Re: 1517 update

Well the last two weeks have been sort of like the "glory" weeks if you will. I'm getting to see the final product of all of my hard work coming together. The piping is built, all of my hoses are in, I've rebuilt the airbox for the intercooler, installed my new shifter cables, bled the brake and clutch systems, installed the transfer case and axles, put all of the front subframe/suspension bracketry back in, rewired the section of harness that runs to the t-stat, and a bunch of little detail crap. I still need to get my BOV flange welded on, wire in a few things, fill all of the fluids, install my downpipe, and put all of the body parts back on, but that's about it really. I'm going to once over the whole car to make sure I didn't forget something, and then turn the key.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/06/11 09:46 PM
Re: 1517 update

Well, I just started it about 30 minutes ago. After the fuel pump built pressure, it lit right away, but wouldn't idle. I expected this, because the throttle body is from a junkyard car, so I'm sure I'll need to go through the TPS adjustment and BISS adjustment procedures, plus the timing is way off as well. The bummer comes from realizing that I cracked the brand new oil cooler when I tightened one of the fittings into it. So I get to buy another one. Otherwise I'm pretty happy.

GSNT
(Deer Slayer)
06/06/11 10:01 PM
Re: 1517 update

I wouldn't mount a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. The vibration of the engine at best will make it stop working. I have seen them eventually leak and cause a car or two to burn to the ground.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/06/11 10:18 PM
Re: 1517 update

Well now you speak up! LOL. What about a sender for an electronic gauge?

GSNT
(Deer Slayer)
06/06/11 10:47 PM
Re: 1517 update

The vibration will eventually kill it too. I would drill and tap the banjo bolt at the top of the fuel filter, or they make a special banjo bolt with a NPT take off already in it.

GSNT
(Deer Slayer)
06/06/11 10:49 PM
Re: 1517 update

Hell man your AFPR has an 1/8th inch npt to put a sending unit.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/13/11 01:18 AM
Re: 1517 update

Well she runs and drives! I drove it around the block a couple of times and took it to the gas station to fill it full of fresh premium. I've got a small vacuum leak to find near the fuel rail/ plenum area but otherwise she is leak free. For as far apart as I took this car I'm thrilled that everything worked out like it has. I spent most of the weekend cleaning and rearranging my garage because I got a new toolbox and since the car was able to move I was finally able to get everything out of the way to put the new toolbox in place. The toolbox fell in my lap because the cornwell dealer that lives across the street from me had to repossess it from another client, which means i got a screaming deal on it and i couldn't resist the urge to buy it. So i really didn't get very far on the car this weekend.

dewman
(searches...with eyes closed )
06/13/11 01:54 AM
Re: 1517 update

Glad you finally got her going,man. Nothing better than seeing all your work come back to life:) Which tool box did ya get? I know Cornwall is up there close to Snap-on pricewise for their boxes.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/13/11 02:25 AM
Re: 1517 update

This thing is a giant. 84" long, 30" deep, chest high, with either 25 or 28 drawers, i cant remember. I'll have to count them in the morning. The original list price on it was $9,699.00 + tax. The box is only one year old, and in fantastic shape, and it only cost me $3,400.00 + tax. The dealer showed me his actual cost on the box and it is nearly double what i paid. And he said that the box is still valued at $8,200-8,600.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/13/11 02:27 AM
Re: 1517 update

Now i just need to sell my old one.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/20/11 09:46 PM
Re: 1517 update

Couple things to update I figured out that my fans are not coming on whenever the engine gets warm, which has me a little bit perplexed. If i ground the sensor wire for the "emergency" sensor on the back of the t-stat housing, the fans turn on immediately. Which tells me that the fans, relay, and power/ground wiring are all functioning normally. And the fan switch that is in the radiator came directly out of the old radiator (old setup), and the fans functioned properly before i took the car apart. My thinking is that if i jumper the connector to that switch the fans should come on right? Also, my vacuum leak is an injector seal at the manifold. I was going to swap fuel rails anyway, don't want to burn the car down if that gauge starts leaking, so thats no big deal. I've been taking a breather from the wrenching, i just needed to relax a bit, so thats really all i've got for now.

Edit: Duh, the injectors don't sit in the manifold. So i meant the head.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/20/11 11:56 PM
Re: 1517 update

I fixed the fan issue. Seems i had been running off of the switch on the t-stat housing all along. With this new engine i put in a DSM N/A t-stat housing. I left the "triple pressure switch(that's what the Chilton's manual calls it)" out when i swapped sensors because i planned on mounting a dash switch for manual fan activation. When i swapped to these fans a couple years ago, i removed the ballast box with the old fans and never reconnected the wires. But the fans worked, because that triple pressure switch was the one activating them. Now, the wires that did go to the ballast are connected to eachother, and the system is running off of the radiator mounted fan switch again.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/21/11 08:03 PM
Re: 1517 update

Right on Justin!!

How does she feel.... superior differences I assume. Drop by when your free and let me drool for a bit.

Edit:
Oh and in for some pictures my friend.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/22/11 12:50 AM
Re: 1517 update

I really dont know how she runs yet. I haven't got the vacuum leak fixed yet, and there hasn't been time to get the alignment done or time to get on the dyno either. The car is still minus a hood, a fender, both headlights, a front bumper, and a grille, not to mention that the interior is in pieces still because console had to be removed to put the damn shift cables in. Plus I'm moving all of my gauges and my turbo timer to a new custom built gauge pod. There is still much to do until its ready for more pictures and until the car is ready for some abuse. But tell me Diego, did you get the pic that i texted you? I can say that power steering is nice to have back though.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/22/11 01:58 AM
Re: 1517 update

I don't recall the text... maybe just send them to my email. [email protected]


Diego.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/22/11 04:12 PM
Re: 1517 update

Uploading pictures for Justin.... just to give the gazers some drool material....




Old motor setup...


Top Side of new motor....


Side view of motor... with an angled twist...


Filter side of motor...


Turbo anyone.....


Another view....


Can someone say HUGE tool box....


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/22/11 07:19 PM
Re: 1517 update

Ya know, I'm pretty jealous of this set up... When you get the bugs fixed or if your making a drop over this way with time to spare... Drop in and shoot the shit with me and help me with a damn water pump maintenancing..... and maybe some words on why I have a 1/8" gap by my ds headlight from a new fender install....

Diego


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/25/11 04:13 AM
Re: 1517 update

I will get at you as soon as possible Diego. I'm running on fumes lately, what with work , the toolbox changeover, working on the car, and other responsibilities of normal life. I think i need a vacation. I left the key in the run position since i fixed the fan issue, so the battery is super dead. I'm trying to bring it back to life, but i'm not sure it will come around. My battery charger has rejected it twice as a bad battery, so i may be looking at getting another Optima.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/25/11 10:14 PM
Re: 1517 update

same type of thing killed my Red Top..... I love the batteries but sheesh could they get any more expensive... Im glad the price has come down some since I bought mine right when they came out years back for VERY shiny pennies.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
06/28/11 12:57 AM
Re: 1517 update

Oh my. This car is stupid fast compared to what it was before. I spent nearly all weekend doing the tedious stuff (putting the interior back together, putting body parts back on, etc.) all in an effort to get the car out sunday night so i could attend one of the "unauthorized" car shows here in the Denver area. On the way down there i embarassed a Camaro that had a 2006 LS6 Corvette engine swapped in, which was fun, and my friend's fully built B16 Civic (which runs 17 lbs.) couldn't keep up with me, which is nice. I ran into George Billings at the show also, it's nice when you can finally put a face to the name. I feel like a huge weight has been lifted, knowing that it has finally gone out and ran and it seemed to love every minute of it.

Some other good things to mention: my Optima lived , the WOT air/fuel ratio registers 11.0:1, and i have yet to get a check engine light.

Some points of concern: the transmission makes a speed dependant clunk clunk clunk while moving in reverse only, but it is perfectly fine while moving forward and while shifting between gears. And i need to figure out why my boost controller isn't working. I had it turned off, which should cause it to allow the wastegate spring to be the only device controlling boost. The wastegate spring is supposed to be .7 bar (10.15 psi), but the car pulls all the way to 25 lbs. no problem.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
06/28/11 08:43 PM
Re: 1517 update

Congrats.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/03/11 11:03 AM
Re: 1517 update

I drove the car down to Colorado Springs so Jack could have a listen at my reverse noise in the transmission. He is confident that there is something wrong with the reverse idler gear. I have to say that he is a class act. He offered to keep the car, r+r the trans, fix the trans, and give it back all at no cost. I declined, however, as I would feel bad making him pull it when he never installed the trans in the first place. So he offered to build me an identical unit and I will do an exchange here in a couple weeks.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/16/11 08:48 PM
Re: 1517 update

Catastrophic failure. Well maybe not catastrophic, but failure none-theless. Will update when more information comes available.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
07/17/11 04:04 PM
Re: 1517 update

Glad you got it home last night. Once you figure it out give me a call to let me know what you found. It is the same thing I have a problem with.

dlesser
(Junior Member)
07/17/11 04:39 PM
Re: 1517 update

Uhh ohh sounds like something bad happend. Any update?

Edit: Need to look at post times sorry


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/19/11 12:03 AM
Re: 1517 update

So I drove the 65 miles or so to go help out Diego in Greeley. The car drove real nice the whole way up there, never even made me think something would be wrong. I chit-chatted Diego for a few minutes and then we went to get into my car so I could show off a bit and we could get food also. The car didn't want to go into gear, so we took his roommate's RX-7 instead. After coming back and working on his car, the time came for me to try and get this thing home. I started it in gear, and the clutch was dragging enough that the car backed itself out even though my foot was buried to the floor on the clutch. I shoved it out of gear and the car died. I re-started it, and tried to put it in first. It went right in, then into second, third, fourth, fifth and reverse with absolutely no grind or "block out", and it wasnt making any noise. I tried driving away, made it about 400 feet, and then I heard the worst sound I think I've ever heard from any of my Mitsubishi's. It was like 6000 school teachers dragging their fingernails across a chalkboard all at once. So I called for rescue in the form of a Powerstroke and a trailer.

After disassembly, here's what I found.















On a positive, I snapped a couple of pics of my custom gauge pod for your veiwing pleasure. The bottom panel is still in the works, the guy that built it just ran out of the glue he uses for attaching the vinyl the the MDF board.







Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
07/19/11 05:23 AM
Re: 1517 update



Terry Posten
(Old Balls)
07/19/11 09:29 AM
Re: 1517 update

Is that an ACT PP?

dlesser
(Junior Member)
07/19/11 09:43 AM
Re: 1517 update

That sucks. Anything strange when you were taking it apart? Like lose bolts?

GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
07/19/11 10:00 AM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting Terry Posten:

Is that an ACT PP?




Yep it is.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
07/19/11 02:50 PM
Re: 1517 update

act 2600

4Grim
(I deliver.)
07/19/11 08:26 PM
Re: 1517 update

Why am I not surprised your ACT took a crap. Never heard though of the PP going bad...just their discs which happened to me.

Whats your next clutch setup in mind?


Lightning1
(Junior Member)
07/19/11 09:51 PM
Re: 1517 update

My act 3200 pp did the same thing about 6 months ago. That is what caused me to tear the car apart. Drove to work great, then pushed in the clutch to start it and you could feel something in the pedal and no gears. I switched the master and slave, and when I got down to do the slave, those damn teeth were in the bottom of the bellhousing. I thought it was a common problem for the act clutches?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/19/11 10:24 PM
Re: 1517 update

Terry: yes this is an ACT 2600, Diego remembered correctly.

Dlesser: unfortunately I can't blame myself for this one. The bolts were all tight, all there, so I don't really know the "how and why" on this one.

4grim: I haven't thought about what clutch to use on this go around. Got a suggestion?


Brianawd
(Higher Launch RPM)
07/20/11 08:28 PM
Re: 1517 update

ACT at its best.

Where is the person that is on this board that used to work for ACT and always said there were great clutches. Care to chime in on this one?


xkoolaidx
(Newbie)
07/20/11 08:50 PM
Re: 1517 update

this is all bad, diego told me about your build when i met up to look at 1309

PreskitVR4
(Member +)
07/20/11 09:36 PM
Re: 1517 update

Centerforce DFX FTW!!!!!! stock pedal effort, I've been exclusive with CF for over nine years now, prototyped alot of stuff for them, never let me down.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/20/11 11:52 PM
Re: 1517 update

I'm not putting a Centerforce in it. I have seen bone stock 4g63t powered cars kill Centerforce clutches in only a few months.

SleepinGVR4
(What are we going to do today Ferb?)
07/21/11 02:05 AM
Re: 1517 update

Daryl was the guy that worked for ACT. Whenever a member had a problem he usually tried to help them out. But last I heard he no longer worked for ACT.

dlesser
(Junior Member)
07/21/11 01:03 PM
Re: 1517 update

I have a used 2600 if you just want to get it back and running. I need to check at the shop to make sure I didn't toss it. If your interested let me know...its free. I won't put another ACT clutch in my car.

91VR41400
(Member)
07/21/11 06:40 PM
Re: 1517 update

Sucks to see that... ive been running an ACT 2600 in my AWD 1g since 2002 with zero problems. Ive heard stories about there disc hub cracking but never seen any PP failures. Guess its how people drive them

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/21/11 09:07 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting dlesser:

I have a used 2600 if you just want to get it back and running. I need to check at the shop to make sure I didn't toss it. If your interested let me know...its free. I won't put another ACT clutch in my car.




thanks for the offer, but i'm going brand new. Maybe not ACT, but new.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
07/21/11 09:18 PM
Re: 1517 update

did you check out the site I sent you in PM

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/21/11 09:27 PM
Re: 1517 update

Yeah, definitely some options there. I didn't realize CM had as many choices as they do.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/21/11 10:30 PM
Re: 1517 update

I'm thinking of running a Competition Clutch 4 puck solid hub setup. Any thoughts? Anyone have experience?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/26/11 01:35 AM
Re: 1517 update

Well I ordered the clutch in the above posting. I guess I'll know soon enough if it is any good or not. It should be here by this weekend.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
07/29/11 12:31 AM
Re: 1517 update

Well I've picked up my new trans from Jack on Tuesday, and my new clutch and clutch fork showed up today. I haven't been able to even look at the clutch parts yet, because the job has placed me out in Grand Junction, CO for the night. I'll be back tomorrow though, and will post a first impression.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
07/29/11 07:35 PM
Re: 1517 update

<3 this car!

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/03/11 10:57 PM
Re: 1517 update

I'm bored. I want to work on this thing some more. But waiting on my clutch to get back so the car can go back together. And when i pulled the trans out, i only left about 3 inches between the front of the car and my garage door(when closed) so it is kind of hard to put the bumper back on. I suppose i could mount the nitrous bottle, but i would prefer to build a bracket so that i don't have to drill any more holes in the trunk. And my neighbor has to fill his gas for his welder before i can do that. Maybe my focus should be trying to sneak this thing through smog before i worry about that. I don't know.

Maybe this is just my random post of the week.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
08/03/11 10:59 PM
Re: 1517 update

When do you have to test.. maybe that's what we do on our meet while at your house...

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/03/11 11:04 PM
Re: 1517 update

Ehh, plates are good through the end of September. Plus i'd hate having everyone stand around while i took shots in the dark at trying to circumvent the total lack of vacuum lines under the hood.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/14/11 10:25 PM
Re: 1517 update

I wish I had a robot, or a clone. Or that I could be in two places at once.

I put the car back together this afternoon. Everything seems real good except that the clutch engages way to close to the floor. I need an extra body to bleed her some more.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
08/14/11 10:41 PM
Re: 1517 update

Wish I could help I ordered a STM extended slave rod today should be here in a few days. Hopefully that helps with a little extra, that's the only thing I can think of that I'm missing my old slave had it but I didn't think twice to save it before I tossed it for scrap.

Terry Posten
(Old Balls)
08/14/11 10:49 PM
Re: 1517 update

I was able to tweak the adjustment rod at the pedal to get mine in the sweet spot.

Mine was too high, then too low. I was turning the threaded rod to much.

I found that the best way to adjust the throw was to turn the rod only 1/8th turn at a time and take it for a drive each time.

It will take a while but it is very touchy.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
08/14/11 11:18 PM
Re: 1517 update

I'll take that and what John told me in the morning.

toybreaker
(it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus)
08/14/11 11:44 PM
Re: 1517 update

Justin,

Are you trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics while the front of the car is up on stands?



The green line is the thermal compensating port where fluid can enter/leave the master cylinder bore from the reservoir.

That's the comp port at the bottom of the bore.



Note it is on the centerline of the bore, leaving a "pocket" area where air can be trapped above it and in front of the side port.

Most of that air will be purged when the piston displaces fluid out and into the system thru the side port that leads out to the slave during the beeding proccess.

... However, some will be trapped there, (red "bubbles" in top pic... doan b hatin on my paint skillz ... )

... especially if you have the nose of the car up on stands, ... and it can be a real bitch to get it all out ...

Even a small amount of trapped air can contribute to release issues


This is why I always recommend folks bench bleed their components beofre they install them on the vehicle. You can optimise the angle, and give the air a high point to leave the system, and in just a couple of strokes, remove all the air from the master.

A vacuum bleeder can do a workman like job working the air down and out the slave bleeder, but it;s hard to tell when you;re done becuase air "sneaks" down the bleeder screw threads and shows up in the fluid stream, making it look like the systen is still chock full 'o air.

Letting the system "gravity out" for a few minutes will show when things are good to go.



It's also why on installed compnents, I prefer reverse bleeding the system from the slave upwards/back towards the master with the phoenix style bleeder. (it pumps fluid into the system at the slave bleeder screw, and you remove the flushed fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.) The air will head up easier than it heads down, and you can monitor your progress up at the reservoir. When the bubbles stop, you;re golden!


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/15/11 12:08 AM
Re: 1517 update

As always John, thanks for the advice. I never realized that was even a possibilty. I didn't actually break the system open when i dropped the trans out. I just pulled the slave off of the side and unbolted the bracket that holds the line, then took advantage of the flex line to allow me to set the slave up by the washer bottle.

I have to assume that it needs to be bled. And because it was a one man show today, I called it a night and will get assistance tomorrow.

If bleeding doesn't help, the trans is coming back out.

My master cylinder pushrod is maxed out on its adjustment already, I have the smaller diameter slave installed, the entire hydraulic system has less than 8k on it, and I gave the disc/pressure plate/flywheel all to Jack (Jack's Trans) so he could have his guy do his magic with the flywheel cut.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/15/11 06:47 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting toybreaker:



A vacuum bleeder can do a workman like job working the air down and out the slave bleeder, but it;s hard to tell when you;re done becuase air "sneaks" down the bleeder screw threads and shows up in the fluid stream, making it look like the systen is still chock full 'o air.






One simply way to circumvent this issue with vacuum bleeders is by applying some wheel bearing grease to the area around the threads of the bleeder screw.

The suction of the vacuum bleeder will be applied equally to the system. That suction creates a pressure differential, which, do to the laws of physics(or something like that ), will try to equalize itself by drawing in fluid. Because air flows more easily than brake fluid, the bleeder screw threads are usually the path of least resistance.

But brake fluid flows more easily than grease . By applying the wheel bearing grease to the threads of the bleeder, you change the path of least resistance to the hydraulic system itself, and therefore have a steady stream of fluid once the system has purged itself of air.

An added benefit of this is that the grease will combat corrosion build-up around the bleeder screw, making it much easier to open many moons down the road.


toybreaker
(it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus)
08/15/11 09:39 PM
Re: 1517 update

Justin,

that's a good tip, but DONT USE WHEEL BEARING GREASE!!!

it will comtaminate the system leading to all kinds of prblems further down the road gaurandamnteed.



The only product suitable for that task is hydraulic system assembly lube.



I saved a bunch of thiese packets from my aviation days

... but any ate/lockheed/girling hydraulic assembly lube made specifically for use internally in brake systems will do ... (this product is usually red in color to distinguish it from the other brake lube meant for the external parts like sliders)



... let me repeat that, because it is very important to not contaminate the system.

do not use anything other than specifically designed assemby lube anywhere on a hydraulic system that may come in contact with the brake fluid

at some point I may do a write up on how to optimise the hydraulic systems of these cars, (the toybreaker way ), but i'm not sure ther's enough space on the server.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/15/11 11:12 PM
Re: 1517 update

John, i understand the contamination factor completely. But I have a hard time believing that any grease will actually make its way past the threads. I'm not talking about removing the bleeder and then coating it and putting it back in.

Just dabbing some around the outside before you crack the screw.

With the incredible viscosity difference between the grease and the brake fluid, and the fact that the threads provide effectively a "the eye of a needle" sized passage to get past the bleeder seat, it seems extremely unlikely.

But I do agree that the risk is real.....

Just next to impossible after factoring everything in.

I've seen guys squirt 20W-50, around a bleeder, and that I'd never do.

But I suppose that for the purposes of trying to provide real, honest, safe advice to this community, you are absolutely correct.



Edit: Is there a foot in mouth icon?


toybreaker
(it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus)
08/15/11 11:47 PM
Re: 1517 update

I only know this because I done done it

... once ...

And once was enough!

Damn cup swelled up an started to stick/bind in the bore

it finally rolled over on itself and spat out all the fluid when I got all "diego" on it.

... wasn;t purty, to say the least! ...


neighbors little girl came over later and asked what rassafrackin meant

Quoting 1517:

I'm not talking about removing the bleeder and then coating it and putting it back in.




yeah, I didn;t think about doing it that way...that's probably safe~ish, I just don;t want to take any chances on the hydraulic system anywhere

I actually do remove the bleeder entirely and coat the whole kit, kat and kaboodle, threads an all, the whole shitarree, with assembly lube ... all the way down to the step down.

This keeps any air from migrating down the threads.

I did this on Diego's car, but we didn;t have any air to use my cool guy vacuum bleeder, so we had to do it the hard way as the sun set over yonder horizon.

... think his neigbors might have learned a few new words as well


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
09/06/11 08:40 PM
Re: 1517 update

I'll be damned!

It is actually possible to pass emissions with no EGR, no solenoids, carbon canister disconnected, 750's, vacuum line elim (except for the FPR, BOV, and wastegate), and I did it without paying someone at the e-test station off.

Damn it feels good to be a gangsta!

This is all a very good thing because the Galant has been forced back into DD duty. In a fit of extreme dumbassery, I rearended some poor guy with my beater S-10.

It won't be long until the truck is back on the road though.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
09/06/11 10:52 PM
Re: 1517 update

Do tell your secret haha..

How has she been running since the meet up? Fix that release problem yet?


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
09/07/11 12:57 PM
Re: 1517 update

I wish I could let you in on some secret. I went down there 100% expecting to fail. But I suppose there was some help considering that everything under my hood is new. The motor, O2 sensor, ECT, air/oil/fuel filters, the cat only has ~500 miles on it, I'm boost and exhaust leak free, and when you open my hood everything is clean. I mention that last part because when the guy opened my hood he knew right away that my car isn't hacked together. We talked after it passed and he told me "nice car man", and he said that he knew I was missing a couple things but he also knew that if I had put the car together correctly it would still pass. He said he thought it would be a touch dirtier than it actually was, but he realized that he shouldn't just can it because my EGR is gone, because it looked to him like I knew what I was doing.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
09/29/11 07:53 PM
Re: 1517 update

New found glory.

I pulled my cat back out...

And my car doesn't rattle anymore. What a good feeling. It seems so miniscule, the task of swapping a cat with a test pipe. But I didn't feel like doing it. Now that it is done, I am proud of driving my car again.

My crappy little S-10 rattles and shakes and is rusted to hell. I don't mind driving that though, because I don't look at my truck and see it as an extension of myself. It is just a truck.

My car, however, is an extension of myself. Years of hard work and re-work have gone into it. When someone says something bad about it, they might as well have been talking about me. That is how I take it. So that little rattle from the cat actually made me ashamed of my car, of myself. I didn't realize it until I took the cat out though. Once it was gone, my whole mood changed. Instead of thinking of selling it, I'm thinking about cams, and suspension, and paint?

I've never thought deeply about painting it, but I am now. It is weird.

And this car still gives me chills, butterflies, an adrenaline rush, whatever you want to call it. When she is up and running, full spool, clicking gears, and I know it is all because of me, my work, I am still amazed. When I got this car it was a couple weeks away from a trip to the scrapper. Now I have people that I respect telling me how good of a job I've done. And people I've never met flagging me down just to talk about and look at my car.

It is odd for me to deal with people who want to give me praise over my car. It doesn't have anything special done to it. In fact, there's many more cars here and elsewhere that are far more deserving of praise then mine. Mine is dented, scratched, has bad paint, and is currently two different colors. It would be three if I'd ever get my front bumper put back on. My seats are dried and cracked and coming apart at the seems. The carpet is stained and faded. I'm missing a bunch of little clips and fill panels in the interior. The vents have a bunch of broken fins. The rear defrost has never worked. The car leaks water in two different spots when it rains or when I wash it.

But it is mechanically sound. There isn't a single loose or worn out suspension part. The motor and trans are fresh. The rear is a 4-bolt. Everey little aspect of the "workings" of the car has been upgraded or inspected and deemed ok.

Is it possible for onlookers to recognize the effort put forth in a vehicle when the only things that have been upgraded aren't even visible without crawling underneath it? I don't know. I frequent a couple shows in the Denver area and I walk right by some fairly regular looking vehicles not ever knowing if they are actually stock or if they just appear that way.

Anyhow, I know that I love my car. Thats about it for my Thursday night ramble.

Oh, and I finally put a BOV on it.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
09/29/11 09:32 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting toybreaker:


I got all "diego" on it.





Yay, I became a euphemism!


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/01/11 03:07 AM
Re: 1517 update

I developed a coolant leak tonight. May have to rethink the water feed to the wastegate...

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/01/11 06:03 PM
Re: 1517 update

Got the coolant leak fixed, atleast for now...

When I fabbed up the feed line for the water cooling on my Tial MVS, I used a generic 40" long, 1/4" OD parts store brake line. It was too long of course, which I planned on, knowing that once I had it shaped correctly, I would simply cut of both ends and re-flare them with the right fittings in place. I chose the brake line because the best route to feed the wastegate was to go underneath the exhaust manifold, parallel to the block mounted factory water pipe. I wanted something sturdy so it wouldn't end up laying against the turbine housing or exhaust manifold, and I knew the steel line would be able to take the heat of that particular area of the engine compartment, especially considering that it would have coolant flowing through it.

Well all was fine and dandy until it snapped off the flare that I put on it at the t-stat side of the line. I'm wondering if the vibrations weakened it. It can't be a pressure thing, because brake systems endure much more than 16 lbs of pressure.

Anyhow, I'll be watchful of that line again, and if my new flare breaks, I'll go the spendy route and get some AN fittings and steel braided line.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/05/11 01:03 AM
Re: 1517 update

Worked on the car some more last night. My neighbor picked a TIG welder a few weeks ago and he wanted to practice welding piping. We went ahead and eliminated two couplers out my piping so far, and will be eliminating another. We'll also be welding a block to the side of my filter to turbo pipe so that in can drill and tap some ports to run a higher flow vent system between the V/C and said pipe.

Also found out the the water feed line to my wastegate is definitely going to have to be replaced with something different.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/10/11 11:42 PM
Re: 1517 update

Worked some more on the I/C piping. It actually worked out nice to eliminate two more couplers instead of just one more. Now comes the fun of polishing the entire piping system from from turbo to engine. That is going to take a full day at least.

I also took a trip down to the local big block speed shop (because they are the only people I know that keep these in stock) to get some -4 AN hardware to reconfigure my water feed to the wastegate. Haven't gotten around to assembling it yet, but I can't imagine that I'll have any more leaks from that line once I'm done.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/15/11 01:20 AM
Re: 1517 update

Made my new water line tonight. I effing hate -4 AN, FYI. It seems like the smaller you go, the harder it is to assemble. But it looks clean, and it matches all of the rest of my AN perfectly. It would have really pissed me off if I would have had to use the red/blue fittings instead of the black/silver fittings.

I'm also seriously contemplating not polishing this damn IC piping. It'll look tits when it's done but it takes so long. Seems like more of a pain in the ass than its worth.

Also need to fix my pedal assembly. It is amazing how mis-informed I was into thinking mine was ok. I will be contacting SHEP for some pedal shaft bushings shortly and will weld it all together. Hopefully I will have finally licked the stupid engagement issues I've been dealing with for years.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/25/11 12:44 AM
Re: 1517 update

Lots of little things have been happening to 1517 lately. I performed the DIY amber corner mod, polished all of my IC piping, made a hood latch support since the factory one was cut to accommodate my IC, and I went ahead and mounted up a PS cooler. I also relocated my remotely mounted oil pressure sender, plumbed new lines for the windshield washer nozzles, and I also ordered the replacement clutch pedal rod bushings. Once I have those, I'll weld that assembly up.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/30/11 12:30 AM
Re: 1517 update

Finally put my bumper back on tonight. It totally changed the attitude of my car. My ride was so pissed off before, giant FMIC, no bumper, exposed piping and exposed oil cooler and exposed air filter (deisgned for a 7.3 powerstroke), and now it looks... self confident. It looks awesome really. Not to mention, I have driven it the last two days (it has been atleast a month) and when it walks out on dry pavement, it has given me a hard on.

Yeah, I said it.

What really has me going is that my mom could drive this beast. As long as she doesn't bury the throttle. Otherwise she'd end up peeing herself. Just saying.


a2vr4
(Boot Strap Bill's boy)
10/30/11 12:37 AM
Re: 1517 update

Now all of this sounds good... how about some video!
~Brian A. Moreno


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/30/11 12:48 AM
Re: 1517 update

The problem with video, is that I'll end up wrecking it because I'll be trying too hard to show off.

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
10/30/11 12:52 AM
Re: 1517 update

That's where I come into play as co-pilot!

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
10/30/11 12:56 AM
Re: 1517 update

Diego, you are always welcome to rock "navigator", in fact, I'd be honored.

RedTwo
(Rangi Kiwi)
10/30/11 07:36 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

The problem with video, is that I'll end up wrecking it because I'll be trying too hard to show off.




But then you get lots more views on youtube


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
11/13/11 03:45 PM
Re: 1517 update

Finally getting around to working on the pedal assembly. I have a spare assembly from 465/2000 that I installed the Shep bushings into, and then tig welded the arm in place. I still have to pull the one out of 1517, but I think that will be fairly simple.

I went to the junkyard this morning. (Pull 'N' Save, 33rd & Peoria for the locals) and there is some gold sitting out there. Saw a widebody Starquest (99% complete), an old turbo Datsun (280?, looked mechanically complete), an RX-7 Turbo II, a single turbo 300zx. I scored a black top CAS, a cam gear cover, and an intake mani with coil pack and PT. The best part is that didn't take a single tool with me.


Okayplayer
(Member +)
11/13/11 05:03 PM
Re: 1517 update

Sounds like some good hunting over there. I will have to check them out. I usually go to u pull and pay and it always seemed picked by the time I get to it.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
11/13/11 09:26 PM
Re: 1517 update

All the posts that I read that say the pedal assembly comes out in about 45-60 minutes can kiss my ass. I hate my car right now.

Okayplayer
(Member +)
11/13/11 09:31 PM
Re: 1517 update

Perhaps a bigger hammer, establish dominance...

Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
11/13/11 09:37 PM
Re: 1517 update

Just go all "Diego" on it.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
11/13/11 10:55 PM
Re: 1517 update

Well atleast I got it out. It is a good thing too, as I am going to get about an inch of pedal travel back with this other assembly. What a giant PITA though. Now tomorrow night is going to be filled with reinstallation, instead of enjoying a decent pedal feel. Plus, I need to change the oil and try out the black top CAS that I picked up. The plan for the intake manifold is to get it cleaned and surfaced, after which I'll drill and tap some extra ports into the plenum for boost reference. I need to fix my boost controller, and I think the problem is related to poor signal. That is a back burner project though because I also need to rebuild my TB (leaky shaft seals), and I think my best bet will be to order a 63mm one from www.throttlebodys.com, and I need more money.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
11/19/11 10:44 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

I hate my car right now.




Not anymore!

The pedal feel has never been better in this car... ever... and I do mean since this car was new. I got the car with 122k, and I am confident that it hasn't been this good even before I owned it. I have been fighting this for years. That means I have adjusted, and replaced, replaced some more, bled, adjusted, bled, bled again, adjusted some more, replaced, bled, repaired, rebuilt, bled, and replaced every gawddamned part even slighty related to the clutch on my car. Before I owned the car, I even put a stock replacement clutch in it, and it was still in there when I bought it. It seems ironic really, because a certain reputable shop has driven, adjusted, and checked my car, and told me that my pedal assembly was just fine, and their test method = fail. I had to disassemble a spare set of pedals to figure out exactly how they work, how they fail, and how to properly test them. Maybe my car is just special, and the so-called pedal test works fine on other cars. (Yeah right.) Anyhow, I'm glad it is fixed, and I recommend that any and everyone of you with any sort of clutch issue look real hard at your pedal assembly.


Diego
(Mad Hatter Suite Touche Debackle Guage filled by Justin)
12/06/11 12:36 AM
Re: 1517 update

Holy rocketship Batman! @$"*POW
This car has some power!

-Robin


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
12/31/11 10:26 PM
Re: 1517 update

Quoting galant1517:

and when it walks out on dry pavement, it has given me a hard on.

Yeah, I said it.






Turns out that I just had some crappy tires. I was forced to upgrade right before Christmas, and mounted up a set of Goodyear Eagle GT 235/45/17 97V all seasons. These new tires are grippy, which is nice, and also disappointing. It felt a lot cooler to be able to get the tires spinning on an AWD car. I feel much safer now, however, because the tires are actually capable of keeping up with the car.

Other than that, there isn't much to update. Rolled out to the local junkyard with another member today, as they were having a 50% off sale. Got a couple good things, but we missed out on what he really needed.

I need the weather to smooth out some so I don't freeze my arse in the garage and there will be some more updates.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/01/12 01:15 AM
Re: 1517 update

Here are some more pics:


Here is a pic of the new rubber.




A pic of my car next to a friend's 351W powered replica. My car is way faster, as his only weighs 1960 lbs.



And these are some newer pics of the outside of the car(complete with a totally custom license plate cover ):





















Okayplayer
(Member +)
01/02/12 03:32 PM
Re: 1517 update

Lookin good Justin, so what's next for it? Paint? Suspension? You need to take a ride in my car to see if you like the Evo 8 setup.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/07/12 08:12 PM
Re: 1517 update

Yes I do Dez, but I'm sure the E8 stuff is worlds better than the GVR4 stuff.

As for what's next, I have figured out why the lowest boost pressure I was able to run was 20-21 psi. When I ordered my wastegate, MAP said that they would set it to whatever boost pressure that I wanted. I requested that they set it to .7 bar. Well, I took the top off of it and found springs in there for 1.3 bar. Shame on them for giving me the wrong setting. Shame on me for not double checking it.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/07/12 08:19 PM
Re: 1517 update

@ the rag over the license plate.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/08/12 02:34 AM
Re: 1517 update

I just got done with modifying the I/C piping and the intake pipe some more. I had my neighbor weld some aluminum blocks to both pieces so I could drill and tap them for some brass barb fittings. I needed a port in the intake pipe to run the valvecover breather hose, and I added two ports to the I/c piping for a proper boost reference for both my wastegate and my boost controller. Once I get the pipes cleaned out tomorrow, I'll put it all back together and see if my boost is actually at a more reasonable level.

Quoting turbowop:

@ the rag over the license plate.




Thanks Wop, I took those pics to post onto FB, and didn't want some random people figuring out where I lived. Most of the active CO peeps have already seen the car and/or been to my house, so I am not too worried this group of guys.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
01/08/12 04:59 AM
Re: 1517 update

I just thought it was funny because most people just photoshop out the plate.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/08/12 12:03 PM
Re: 1517 update

Most have far more home technology than I as well. I don't even own a computer, although I am working on that. The funny thing is that hanging a rag over the plate is much easier and accomplishes the same thing. It takes two seconds to hang a rag, and then you take all the pics you want. I have never photoshopped anything, but I'll bet it takes longer than two seconds, and you have to do it to each pic.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/08/12 04:54 PM
Re: 1517 update

I just finished putting everything back together. Problem solved. Boost is 13-14 on just the wastegate now. The Broncos/Steelers game is on so I have called it a day. I still have to play with the boost controller to set my high boost, but being able to run less than 20 is nice.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/27/12 10:16 AM
Re: 1517 update

Thanks for the fuel injectors...

Good looking out bro.



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