Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
12/13/09 07:13 PM
build #62 - UPDATE 9/10/13 w/ great news

Warning: this may turn out to be the longest and most boring build of mankind.

Goals: reliability, comfort, and mild performance.

Background: I bought the car completely stock over the summer and it has been, and will continue to be doing DD duties if everything goes as planned. I don't have a huge budget or a lot of time to work on the car as I go to school in NY and live in Seattle where the car will stay.

So while talking to Mr. Hightower today at the XXX root beer meet, I got motivated to do a few 'free' mods.

1) removed the BCS restricter
2) removed the MAS silencer
3) eliminated the post-intercooler line of the BCS to wastegate

I guess it raises boost by about 1-2 psi, but I dont have a boost guage so I really can't verify any hard numbers. What I can tell you is that it pulls a little bit more a little bit quicker. I didn't notice the turbo or BOV getting much louder from the silencer removal. I guess for free I can't complain.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
12/14/09 10:50 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

Got some new wheels on and the short shifter in (see here for shifter build thread). I put on a new grill as well. Its from an Eterna and has the red mistu diamonds removed. I like it much better than the stock one because I've never been a huge fan of chrome. I also put on the vr4.org decals in the rear windows. I got the JDM lower rear door decals but am still on the fence whether or not I want to put them on.

The wheels are 17x8 with a 45mm offset and the tires are 245/45's and mostly fit well. The fronts don't rub at all, even at full lock. Keep in mind I still have stock suspension.





This is a terrible picture, but I'm working with a really old camera. The very outside edge of the rear tires barely rubbed on the trailing arm seam.



With the wheel removed, you can see in the middle circle the shiny spot where the rubber was contacting the trailing arm.



Simple fix though. Just get the angle grinder and take it down about an eight of an inch. I slapped on some black spray paint just to prevent surface rust.





Other than the surface rust on the discs and exhaust, the underside of the car is surprisingly clean. Seattle treats cars very well Now I just have to get the wub wubs sorted out


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
12/18/09 04:43 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

I smoked the corners. Thought about doing the tails as well, but I want to polish them and get all the raised DOT scribbles off of them before I do.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
12/29/09 11:39 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

Few things to update but yet again, nothing too special.

Took the taillights off and polished them like I'd planned. It was easy, just get a basin with a little water and wet sand with 220 to get the lettering off and then step up to 1500 then polishing compound and a few soft cloths. I would have liked to go up to 3000 before the compound, but didn't have any handy.



I noticed that the tray cover right in front of the shifter had seen better days, so I took it off and what did I find?



The glue holding all the little fuzzies on had begun to deteriorate. It took forever to clean off and was a big sticky mess. The razor didn't help any and solvents just made things worse. I ended up having to roll it all off with my fingers... not fun. I wanted to cover it with something nice and I found some microsuede that matches the door panels at the local fabric store. I pulled a cloth covered center console lid from a 92 at the junkyard and covered it with suede as well.



I like it because it breaks up the sea of black leather and feels cool too.

Also, I finally got the chance to use the car for what it was made for.



Probably won't be any updates for a while. School is starting up on the 7th and as its my last semester I don't know where a job will surface. Thanks for looking


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
01/01/10 09:59 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

Its been done many times before - took the dash out and repainted the needles red. Also, because I don't like the green dash lights, I took off all the condoms from the green lights and I like result. Its a horrible photo because my camera is a billion years old, but you get the idea. Oh I also painted red over all the orange bits on the dash. This was a bit difficult because you have to make sure to put an even coat on or else it looks splotchy when the backlights are on.



4thStroke
(Spence knows tools)
01/02/10 06:07 PM
Re: The beginning build #62



Nice work! I like where your build is going.

I wish I could have made it to the XXX meet. I bought my car from Hightower and have been wanting to catch up with him for some time now. Meeting local VR4 enthusiasts is always a good time.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
01/02/10 08:04 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

Yea Greg is a really cool guy. As far as the build goes, I don't have the resources necessary to get performance mods done right. So, because those will have to come later, I've been trying to do all the other little things that get sometimes get overlooked. I'm very fortunate to have started with an extremely clean car.

cooliomo
(Junior Member)
01/05/10 04:02 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

very clean ride, wish i could made it to the xxx meet but i was at the english racing dyno day

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/09/10 11:46 PM
Re: The beginning build #62

Ok, so I think its time for another update.

As some of you may know, 62 had a balance shaft belt fail, which caused the main timing belt to jump some teeth on the crank sprocket, which caused the pistons to hit the valves. All of my valves were bent and even a few rockers got busted up. So, I am now in the middle of fixing that as well as doing a BS delete and timing belt replacement.

Here I have everything removed. Pretty much the only thing I haven't taken off is the transmission and crankshaft.


A friend of my brother's let me use his lathe, so I turned down the rear balance shaft a la AMS.


Most of the valves bent so much the rockers came off and flew around. One of them even broke apart and sent its rollers everywhere. I think I found them all.


I think this was the first time the turbo has been taken off because all but two of the studs broke. The old manifold will be replaced with a 2g because it looks like this.


I've been doing a lot of cleaning because three of the four front CV boots tore and sent their lovely goo all over everything (I'm replacing these as well, I just need to get a 32mm socket for the wheel nuts). Also, it may have had an oil leak from the passenger side front corner of the valve cover at one point because everything in that area is caked in oily dirt.

I just got in from taking the turbo apart and, turns out, it was the culprit for my car's oil appetite. The cold side was pretty oily inside and all the o-ring seals had become really hard and broke in some spots. Right now the turbine wheel and center section are soaking in kerosene so they can be cleaned tomorrow.

Parts should be coming in sometime soon, including a jdm head with some sweet cams in it, so I'll get more pictures up once newly cleaned bits and pieces find their way back into the car.

On another note, I found a set of 2g 3kgt vr4 calipers at the pull-a-part yard a little bit ago. Due to the mounting ears being longer on these 2g calipers, I'll be making my own brackets to mount them. I also grabbed the rear trailing arms so now I have the parts for 3kgt brakes all around. That might take a little while, though, as I don't yet have a full time job. Stay tuned.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/11/10 02:23 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Nice car. I just bought a 92' shell with suspension and the interior done. It's really clean and I also go to school out of state. Im going to follow your thread and make my own soon

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/18/10 12:22 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Ok, more pictures for you all.

I've been working the last few days at my part time job so I didn't have much time to work on the car. Also, I have been not very good about taking pictures while I'm doing work on the car so I apologize about that. What I can do is show you where I work.

Back story: last summer my dad asked if I would help him fix the boat. It needed a new engine, and I needed a place to work on it. So, I decided to clean out the shed thats in the back yard. It had been used as storage for all the yard tools, chemicals, paint, camping supplies, building materials, etc. for the last twenty years. It's not a whole lot of space, but I can listen to music and get the place dirty.

Here you can see the new CV boots I just finished. Now I can get that and the oil pan back on and clean the block off with degreaser.


The other end of my workstation. These are some of the parts I've cleaned. You can see the lack of space makes things a bit difficult but I have a few things hanging from the ceiling to avoid too much clutter.


Here's a box of covers and hoses and things that have all been cleaned of the goop that seemed to have permeated every surface of my engine.


The 14b is now rebuilt and bolted to the 2g exhaust manifold I picked up for 35 bucks. I have plans for more power, but I need to get all the supporting mods out of the way before that can become a reality.


One of those mods will be these bad boys . More go means you need more stop and I think these will clean up and do that job pretty well.


And the trailing arms that will let me keep the 4ws. (sorry my toes crept into the frame, I didn't have any room to back up )


So maybe tomorrow I'll get some pictures of my pan/front case/driveshaft install... And lets hope I can have her back up and running by the weekend!


SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
08/18/10 12:36 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

What are the trailing arms off of? Am I seeing drum parking brake?

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/18/10 01:06 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Second generation 3000gt vr4. Yes that is a drum parking brake. The reason why I did this was so I could use the rear two piston calipers from the 3kgt. There has been talk about people wanting to use the rear brakes because they are using the fronts but the problem with that is you would be getting rid of the parking brake. Ours is a mechanism in the rear caliper itself whereas the 3kgt has a drum.

RedTwo had success installing these trailing arms and, as I have already broke new ground installing evo X front struts (more on this later), I thought I would be one of the first to put 3kgt calipers all around as well.


SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
08/18/10 01:34 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Definetly want to hear how this works out.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
08/19/10 11:01 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Interesting^^ +1 on this!

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/19/10 12:30 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Unfortunately that might take a little while. In order to do the swap with a (so far) stock drivetrain and suspension, I'll need

1) a 4 bolt rear end because the 3kgt trailing arm is 4 bolt. Plus I want an LSD in there eventually anyways
2) a front 5 lug swap because these trailing arms are 5 lug already and it might look a little funny to be 5 lug out back and 4 lug up front
2.1) a set of 5 lug wheels. I'm currently selling the 4 lug wheels I bought last winter and will use the stocker until I have sold the old ones and bought some evos to use at first
3) custom brackets to mount the 2g front calipers on my gvr4 front hubs. TunersNation brackets are for 1g calipers and the 2g calipers I have will stick out too far with them
4) to sort out how my ABS works and how the 3kgt ABS works so that I keep that going - OR - just rip it out, but I'd rather try to keep it
5) to have the calipers bead blasted and powdercoated
6) to get stainless lines for the new set up because this is a go-big-or-go-home kind of job
7) to get new ball joints for the rear control arms because the GVR4's are smaller than the 3kgt VR4's
8) [I'm sure there is a few more things I've missed]

I'll also probably do wheel bearings and replace the brake fluid and maybe get a different master cylinder depending on how the pedal feels. So as you might see, it's not going to be ONLY as simple as bolting the trailing arms up. In fact, that may be the easiest part


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/21/10 06:43 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

I got a bit of work done a few days ago. I got the bottom back together, mostly. I wasted about two hours because I thought I lost the bag with the oil filter housing bolts in it. Turns out it was with all the other bags of bolts and I had just missed it about twenty times.

Here's what the front case looks like with the race shaft in it.


Hooray for clean looking things!


The transfer case was really heavy and a pain to fill up.


And I looked back and never showed the damage to the valves. Needless to say, they are fubar.


I'll be getting the timing belt tools in on monday and I should have her running early next week! I'll also be doing a bit more write-up regarding the evo suspension. The evo X fronts bolt right up and as of right now it looks like it will make the car sit a tad lower without cutting any springs. Although, I made some comparison measurements with half the engine out of the car, so I'll have to wait until the engine bay is all buttoned up to know for sure.


RedTwo
(Rangi Kiwi)
08/22/10 08:00 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

Quoting Whoodoo:


4) to sort out how my ABS works and how the 3kgt ABS works so that I keep that going - OR - just rip it out, but I'd rather try to keep it





The GTO ABS ring has something like 40-ish teeth, where as the VR4 has 90-ish. Maybe you can look into the 1G? ABS ECU swap someone else did to keep ABS when you swap 1G? 5 stud hubs, but I have a feeling the GTO runs a completely different number of teeth to either of those.
You *could* swap the 3 bolt axle flanges on to them to keep the 3 bolt axles, you know, for reliability


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/27/10 04:13 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/9 w/ pics

I @#^*ing stripped one of the exhaust manifold threads in the head. I was torquing it down and it didnt even get to 10 ft-lb before it started spinning . So I think I'm going to time-sert all of them so I don't have to worry about stripping them again...

I was hoping to get it fired up today but it looks like that will have to wait.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/27/10 10:16 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

OK, so I used the stripped-manifol- threads ordeal to get other little things done. I got all of the evo suspension in place. Now I just need to get everything back into the engine bay to see how low she sits. I think I have everything all hooked up as far as the wiring harness goes. I bought more MT90 for the trans which will be filled back up after I get the passenger drive shaft's CV boots all done.

Helpful hint:

If you are doing your CV boots and also want to replace the transmission drive shaft seals, I found a couple really good tools for doing so. The timing belt idler pulley is a perfect fit for the driver side seal while the passenger side seal fits perfectly around a 14b compressor backing plate. Couple the backing plate with a 30mm socket and ten inch 1/2 drive ratchet extension, and you have the perfect tool for tap tap tapping that sucker in.

Onto the pictures. Not too many today as most of the pictures I took today will be heading toward an evo X front strut install thread.

However, this is what I did today. Here is a rear evo 8 strut happy in its new home. Everything under the car is pretty dang filthy. Good thing its not rusty though! Sorry the exhaust hanger is in the way.


Yes, I know I have electrical tape and a zip tie to hold the brake line bracket in place. This will only be temporary because I'll go to stainless lines when I put in the 3kgt brakes and a better solution will be found.

And the other picture... stock exhaust woo! I tried to just drop the downpipe to do all this work, but the bolts were stuck so bad on the cat that I just decided to leave it whole. Doesn't look too bad for being almost 20 years old.


I had wanted to put timeserts in for all of the exhaust manifold stud holes, but it would cost me about 75 bucks to do so. So, I will be using a not quite as good but much cheaper alternative. Stay tuned.


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
08/28/10 11:54 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

I know you said it's only temporary, but I would hit up the local hardware store and get a bag of black UV resistant outdoor style zip-ties. They hold up much better than the white/clear ones.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
08/31/10 01:38 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

I wanted to stay away from helicoils because they have always been a pain in my ass. There is another threaded sleeve type product sold by Fastenal called ez-lock. These are cheaper than time-serts because they are installed with a flathead screwdriver. However, they don't lock in like a time-sert and thus, aren't as good. I was under the impression that these ez-locks would be much cheaper and available from the local store, but turns out they aren't really that cheap and weren't in stock. So I had a choice: $35 for ez-locks that would get here in a couple days, or $75 for time-serts which would get here in a couple days.

So, me and my 'go big or go home' attitude got the time-serts.

When they get here I'll get the mani and turbo back on and *hopefully* she'll start right up without a fuss. In the mean time I still have to prime the oiling system, double check that everything is torqued down, get the timing belt on (which won't be hard now that I have the jay racing tools), make sure I plugged everything in right, and generally worry if I've done everything right so far.

It always seems like I'm waiting on something


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/02/10 08:48 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

My Time-serts came today yay!

I got a lot of work done, even though it took forever and the sun was quite hot on my back.

Hooray for thread repair!


Putting the studs back in, I found all my old threads still hanging onto one of them.


I've got a few theories as to why they stripped, and one of them has to do with whether or not the flange of the 2g manifold is thinner than the 1g. Is it? If so, perhaps the nut went all the way down the stud and hit the end of the threads. If that happens and you keep turning... no more threads. Well, no matter how they stripped, they are fixed and the mani is torqued down.

Anyways, here's where I stopped. Turbo and lines are all hooked up and the engine is sealed and ready for oil.


Tomorrow I'll be priming the oiling system, putting the intake on, putting on the main timing belt and seeing if she'll fire up and not leak anything.

I have a few questions. I was plugging the alternator back in and found a wire that goes to nothing. It looks like it had a connector in it long ago, but I cant figure out what it went to.


Also, the half moon seal on this head looks like it was squished down and the top of it doesn't sit flush with the rest of the valve cover gasket surface.



I'm experimenting with materials that rtv won't stick to in the hopes that I can build it up to the level of the rest of the valve cover gasket surface. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Last question... When I was drilling and tapping the middle bottom manifold hole, I didn't realize that it actually goes through to one of the oil drain holes in the head. As a result, some of the chips fell into it. I sucked out all the chips I could see and then shoved the hose down as far as it would go to suck out as many chips as possible. I also poured a bunch of oil down that drain hole and let it drain out the oil pan, but no chips came out. Does that hole go straight down to the pan? What other actions should I take to make sure I don't get any aluminum in the rotating assembly?


SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 09:03 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

RTV should cure to that half moon gasket unless it is completely dried out and hardened, in fact the fsm calls for it in that location. Also, that hose goes on a little nipple that I BELIEVE is on the power steering pump. If I was in front of an engine I could tell you, but just look for a really small nipple near that location.

SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 09:06 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Also, you may want to get a magnetic drain plug to be safe with that metal. But are you sure it's supposed to go all the way through? Iirc none of them are supposed to, but what do I know? My brother accidentally punctured a stud hole on his ca18dt head and he was actually able to jb weld it enough. Not a preferred permanent fix but it works.

SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/02/10 09:23 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

The little wire connects to the power steering pump & lets the ecu see pressure when you turn the wheel. If you still have an IAC it will bump the idle speed to comp for the load of the pump @ parking lot speeds.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/02/10 10:17 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Looking in the FSM I see it calls for RTV on the semi circular seal in a big old picture right there. I guess I should have looked there first.

As for that wire, its getting dark and I couldn't really see if the connector had ripped out or if I wasn't getting it on there right... Nonetheless, I think I'll have some wire repair to do.


SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 10:23 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Lol come on mang, did you read our posts at all? No connector ever was there it's actually just a hose. There's a nipple on the p/s pump for it.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/02/10 10:28 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Oh man, I'm tired! I really want to get her driving in time to get a submission for the calender, so I'm going balls to the wall.

Barnes
(Firechicken)
09/02/10 10:29 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

I'm like 99% sure that nipple on the power steering pump is for a wire connector. The female side is a bullet connector. Where did you get the idea it's for hose?

SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 10:42 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Huh? I don't see how a nipple could ever be for a wire connector. Besides, I know it's for a hose because I had the hose hooked up there when I had a gvr4 with a motor in it, and if you go to Rockauto>steering>power steering pressure hose. Hence the hose.

Barnes
(Firechicken)
09/02/10 10:44 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

So where the hell does the hose go, and why is it every GVR-4 ever had has a wire connected to it that goes back into the wiring harness??

SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 10:47 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

The hose is just part of the wiring harness and (as southcali said) it goes to the ecu so it sees pressure. I'm not totally sure how these work, there very well may be wire insulated by a rubber hose, but I know there is no connector on the p/s pump side. Never has been never will be.

SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 10:49 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

On further inspection of rockauto pictars, it appears that it is in fact just a hose. It's a relatively short hose and I would guess the other end would mate up to a pressure sensor on the wiring harness.

SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/02/10 11:02 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

It is not a hose!! it's a wire, it connects to a pressure switch on the p/s pump, it grounds that wire to signal the ecu to bump idle speed. Yes it has a huge sleeve & a very weird connector but it is a wire. I just fixed mine when I was repairing a broken wire @ my oil pressure sending unit. If you have no switch then there is some kind of block off or that could be the difference between a tel & Gvr4 pump. Though I am somewhat sure I have seen them on tel's as well.

If my camera hadn't gone swimming I'd go take a pic of it & the sensor but I was just working on it two weeks ago.


SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/02/10 11:05 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

I still need to see pics.

iceman69510
(Turn Right Racing)
09/02/10 11:10 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

It's not a hose, it is a wire with a female bullet terminal.

It connects to a pressure activated switch on top of the p/s pump.


SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/02/10 11:11 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

All righty I'll grab my sisters camera & see if I can figgure the bugger out to post a pic for you

SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/02/10 11:16 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics


That is the wire, I'd have to pull some stuff apart to get a shot of the sensor in question & honestly don't feel like doing that at this hour.

And yes I need a new upper heat shield it's on the list


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/02/10 11:46 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Zomg its a connecter or a hose or a wire or a sensor or whatever. It doesn't really matter that much.

What's more important is the aluminum bits that may have gotten into the oil passageways.

I looked at my old stock head and it does go through to the passageway, so I know I didn't punch through when I shouldn't have. I would get a magnetic plug, but its aluminum, so its non-ferrous. I guess my big concern is if this is going to go somewhere other than the pan. If it does just go to the pan, then I'll dump all the new oil down there to get any bits down there. I don't think they are small enough to get through the screen on the oil pickup. I really don't want them to get into the crankshaft bearings. I just did the top end and I really don't want to do the bottom end so soon.


SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/02/10 11:56 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Oil will probably not be able to flush them out of the pan & yea, non ferrous so magnet no workie. You may want to bite the bullet & pull the pan to clean it all out otherwise what it may hurt will be the oil pump, doubt highly the bits can get past the filter. You could try something thinner to get them flushed out, like solvent. Dropping the pan is the only way to be sure, then shoot some brake clean down through with the pan off to get any more that may have stuck to the sides.

SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/03/10 12:40 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

I'm really striking out tonight. Don't worry though I have a million excuses ready to go.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/03/10 12:47 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Quoting SouthCaliVR4:

You may want to bite the bullet & pull the pan to clean it all out




But the RTV and the freshness of it being on there and the pain in the ass of taking it off and the scraping and the...!

Fawk me


SouthCaliVR4
(Gas Analyzer)
09/03/10 12:50 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

^^^ We all have our days! For instance did you know it's real easy to connect the o2 sensors in a Nissan Pathfinder to the wrong banks when doing the valve covers, Found that out today

Edit: Laughing guy was meant for "Smooth Customer" you snuck in while I was taking your thread off topic

I feel your pain man, been there done that have a closet full of t-shirts


dsmtalontsi95
(Herdgate)
09/03/10 09:41 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 8/27 w/ pics

Quoting SmoothCustomer:

. Also, that hose goes on a little nipple that I BELIEVE is on the power steering pump. If I was in front of an engine I could tell you, but just look for a really small nipple near that location.



Yes thats for the power stearing.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/03/10 02:52 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Well, I spent the last three hours dropping the pan, cleaning and putting it back on. And its a good thing I did.




Ok, now I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to do anything else

This project has taken waaaaay too long


turbowop
(Hard Snarker)
09/03/10 04:07 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Regarding the half moon...why don't you just get a new one? They're cheap.

And that is definitely not a "hose" that connects to the power steering pump. It's a wire.


jepherz
(Too Clean)
09/03/10 04:31 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

SC. Aluminum isn't magenetic either....

Great job on the headwork!


SmoothCustomer
(Public school educated knowitall)
09/03/10 04:37 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Lol I know I said I was striking out all over in this thread. I didn't think about it at all. I was tired...

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/04/10 10:20 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

She runs! I started her up without all the accessories just to see if she'd run and, low and behold, she fired right up after a few extra cranks.

Tomorrow, if the weather holds out, I'll be getting the radiator back in, hooking up all the other pulleys and basically doing all the last little bits. Look for a write-up about the evo X front struts in the next week or so.

Pics will be here when she's whole again.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/18/10 11:54 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

I neglected to update this thread when she first started running, but I will do so now that she's been running well for a few weeks.

Here's what she looks like sitting all clean and happy out front.


Things weren't exactly as they should be when I got it first started. It took a couple tries to get the knock sensor in there, but it turns out the code I was getting was for that and not the CAS (duh!). I was taking her for a bit of a long trip a couple days ago and while cruising down the highway something made a HUGE clunk and hit the bottom of the car (i felt it in my butt) and so I pull over thinking the driveshaft has exploded. I couldn't see anything so I very cautiously drove home and got her up in the air to find out what went wrong. The only thing I could see was a missing exhaust hanger bolt. I guess I missed screwing one of them in and it must have bounced off the road and a U joint.

So, I just got a job so I'll have spending money and time on the weekends to throw a little more money into the car. So I expect this thread to be a little more consistent than in the past. Maybe it will get moved into the general discussion section too (wink moderators wink).

Edit: I forgot to give you guys the price break down. I cut as many corners as I felt was allowable to save money, but it still was about a grand for the whole thing.

gaskets
230.85
t-belt idler pulley
34.67
t-belt tensioner pulley
28.83
water pump
27.79
CV boots
44.7
axle seals
12.92
turbo rebuild
60
head
255.31
fluids
50
hardware
15
exhaust manifold
35
t-belt tools
62.34

shipping
38.58

total
896.59

I had to get some other things like thread repair and a few tools, so my actual cost was over 1k.


trexn8
(Trifecta of Fail)
10/06/10 09:48 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Man that car looks nice and clean.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/07/10 03:54 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Why thank you.

My little brother is back at college a few hours north and he's got access to a machine shop. Hence, I have access to a machine shop. I'm hoping make spacers and mill off part of some evo 9 front spring perches so I can get these evo 9 struts/springs on the car to match the rears. Too bad the evo X ones didn't work out, but I guess it was worth a shot.

As far as other news goes, I spent a few hours today with a hose and some soap getting her all clean after the road work just outside my neighborhood got dust EVERYWHERE. I was then going to drive to the beach just before sunset to get pictures of her in front of some mountains with a nice orange backdrop, but.... left the house without a memory card in the camera . I guess those pictures will have to wait for another sunny day (if we ever get one).


mitsuturbo
(Banthony )
10/07/10 09:42 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

I think we'll see the sun for a day or two in May.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/07/10 10:52 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 9/2 w/ pics

Lets hope the weather holds out for my tomorrow because I was able to get up to WWU and use their machines to get my Ksport camber plates working on the evo 8/9 front struts. The only difference between the evo X front and evo 8/9 is the shoulder right below the top threads. *Also, the evo X strut is about an inch taller than the 8/9.

evo X:


evo8/9:


So, in order to get enough threads for the top nut to grab, I had to make new lower bushings with a smaller ID to fit over the lower shoulder and take off some steel from the spring perch. If its not raining, there should be evo suspension all round by days end tomorrow.

*After reading through this again, I forgot to add this very important little tidbit of info.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/08/10 10:00 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/8 with evo suspension comparisons

I'm pissed. I got taken for a ride by a flat brimmed evo doucher. He said his suspension was all good, not blown, used only with stock springs. Ok, I'll give him the stock springs bit because they definitely had been on the struts for a long time (they were really dirty), but if you think 'not blown' means every mediocre bump in the road causes a loud *thud* on rebound, then you've smoked too much.

One of the struts is ok, but the other is a pile of S. Also, it may settle a bit more, but even with a little less than 1 1/4 coil cut, the front still sits a bit higher than the rear.

I know every car is different, but I thought all of you on stock cut evo springs were getting too low with 1 coil and would have preferred less. Maybe the camber plates I'm using sit a bit taller, but I just compared them with the evos and the difference is negligible - less than 1/4 inch taller at most.

WTF?

So, for suspension round 3, I'm thinking about getting koni inserts and moving the spring perch down so I get the ride height I want, but still maintain full shock travel. I did a quick shock travel check by putting a zip tie around the strut shaft and after driving through a fairly bumpy part of the neighborhood, I'd probly be hitting the bump stops. This also leads me to believe that even the strut that doesn't sound bad is on its way out because it was traveling pretty far.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

As for some pictures of what I am working with, here's why I don't just use the evo 8/9 springs and top perch with the evo X struts I have...


As you can see, they are nearly identical (X on the left 8/9 on the right), except for the X strut being an inch or so taller.

As for other differences, the lower perches are pretty much the same. The X has a hump on the inside to locate the spring and the 8/9 has a lip on the outside.


As I had mentioned above, the shoulder just below the top threads is 2mm bigger on the X than the 8/9. (X is below 8/9: 17mm and 15mm respectively)


So, I made some new bushings for the bottom with a smaller ID. I could reuse the top ones because its the same 12mmx1.25 thread.


This isn't the best shot, but here's all the different pieces that go on top. Once again the X spring perch is on the left.


Here's some better pics of the spring perches. X first


And 8/9


And finally, the reason why the lower bushing needs a shoulder on it is so the spherical bearing has room to pivot for camber changes.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/14/10 07:52 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/14 w/ evo suspension tom-foolery

Well, after doing lots of hm's and ha's, I finally decided to just cut my losses and deal with the front suspension being taller than I want it. The evo X struts feel much better damped than the evo 8 ones, so I am now using evo X front struts with evo 8 springs and top spring perches and Ksport camber plates. In order to avoid the situation where cutting a whole coil off the top or bottom of the spring causes it to not stay seated in it's perch, I cut just under 1/2 coil from the top and bottom. This works out pretty well and I'm very satisfied with the way it feels.

Using the evo 8 springs is no big deal because they are the same rate as the evo X spring, they just made a bit differently. Getting the top spring perch onto the evo X strut required making the hole in the middle 2mm bigger, but a little dremelling and that was that.

I've been over this again and again in my head and there is no way to make the evo x strut let the car sit lower. It will always be higher than the evo 9 strut because the strut itself is about an inch taller. As pictured above, the bottom spring perches are about the same height, but because the top of the strut is higher, you need to have a spring with a higher resting height to make up for the space. In order to make the car sit lower than an evo 9 strut would allow means you would need to have a spring with a shorter resting length than the distance between the spring perches. This means there would always have to be a load on the strut in order for the spring to stay put. However, the minute the wheel came of the ground, out the spring would come.

Oh well

Maybe I'll get some of those anti butt-sag spacers the subie guys use to get the rears back up to stock eight with the evo 8 struts.

Edit: I did not use these springs in the end. Cutting 1/2 from the top and bottom worked alright, but made the top of the spring not quite sit right in it's perch. Instead, I ended up using 8/9 springs with 3/4 coils cut from the bottom. This gave almost exactly the same result with the benefit of having the whole dead coil on top to keep it seated.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
07/30/11 05:09 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 7/30 w/ bad news

Well, a couple days ago the galant saw the broad side of another vehicle. Damage doesn't look too bad, there are no leaks, and it still drives ok. I'll probably be looking around for all the parts needing replacement and from what I can see I'll be needing to get the following bits and pieces:

Hood
Fender
Headlight
Bumper
Bumper support
Foglight

Pics:







Bummer, but everyone was ok and I think its all body damage, nothing that can't be fixed.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
07/30/11 08:59 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 7/30 w/ bad news

Ouch! Sorry to hear that man. Your ok right?

jcgalntvr4-244
(WAY 2 many)
07/31/11 02:09 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 7/30 w/ bad news



Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/19/11 01:07 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

At 3:00 am, my car arrived at my house in NY!

First, I gotta take all the crap out of the backseat/trunk, then I will see about getting the frame pulled and all the front end damage fixed. Maybe I'll finally start getting this build underway because now I won't be relying on 62 for DD duty.

I'm stoked!


ducttapeguy
(Hairborne Ranger)
10/22/11 01:57 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

Hell yeah man. Take pics of our cars together. It will be hawt yo

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
09/10/13 09:41 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

Holy crap... It's happening. I have a budget and I'm bringing her back to the streets. She is currently at the frame shop awaiting her spot in line on the frame machine and we'll see how much it takes to get her straight again. I sure as hell hope its doable because I just spent $200 on a new Duralast Yellowtop and $905 on a CMPE full 2.5" turbo back exhaust!

I have a bumper coming (thanks Diego), and will be searching out the rest of the parts once I get her back and can really find out what is salvageable or not. Boy is this exciting or what? I am going to need to practice a little self control and refrain from going JSB for too long because she deserves to be on the road.

But damn there is so much I want to do - I have some 3kgt trailing arms that I want to put on, I would love to do a whole undercarriage treatment for rust prevention, I have always toyed with the idea of splicing an evo 3 hood bulge onto a VR4 hood...

Number one goal is to get her fixed and running so I can DD her and get rid of some monthly expenses (by by veloster). If I can sneak some slight upgrades in the process, then that's great too.


Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/02/13 09:08 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

First off, they pulled the frame rail back out straight and it only cost me $300. I was expecting to pay a lot more than that, so I can justify some extra expenses elsewhere. I have located a USDM bumper (thanks Diego), grill (thanks maroonmetallic), and brand new hood and fenders. I just picked them up today, but a quick peek into the packaging and I think they are nile black! Wouldn't that be cool...

Anyways, I took the old fenders off and boy is this car clean underneath. It's too bad she was in an accident because look at these rust-free fenders!



I installed the CMPE exhaust a few weekends ago. It's a turbo back 2.5" with cat, resonator, and dual tips. The exhaust is beautiful and well made, but my only complaint is that the exhaust tips look to be rotated maybe 5 or 10 degrees.





Now I just need to locate a few more bits and pieces, get them all installed, and have an alignment and some brake work done and the she will be ready for NY registration.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
10/03/13 07:18 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

She's getting there!

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
10/03/13 06:57 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

CMPE suggested the exhaust was a a little low and that I should try to adjust the hangars. I'll try that and see if I can rotate it up a little.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
01/26/14 09:23 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

Just picked the car up from the body shop yesterday.



Thanks to Diego, seizer, and minneSNOWta for the front end components, I now have a whole car again! The hood and fenders are aftermarket, so the front corners of the fenders stick in front of the hood by about a quarter inch. Not ideal, but the point was to get the car back on the road - not win a beauty contest. Plus, I have resigned to the fact that she is no longer the ultra clean and untouched example that she was when I bought her 5 years ago.

I'm getting the brakes checked out, an alignment done, and probably some new tires. Then I'll try to sell the Veloster and put the galant back to work being a daily driver.


minneSNOWta
(Member +)
02/05/14 05:46 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

Nice man, glad we were able to help out. Let's see those foggies shine!

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
02/05/14 05:47 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

car looks great. im really impressed with the body shops work. i cant wiat to get mine painted up all pretty.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
02/07/14 05:54 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

There are still some little things that I need to take care of. The selector for the AVAC controls won't go past the footwell/direct blow location, there isn't a whole lot of heat coming through the vents, I think i have a baby exhaust leak after the downpipe, the 10 year old head unit sucks, and the idle has issues - really high on cold start, then bumbles and rumbles around 500RPM or thereabouts when warm.

That doesn't stop me from having fun in the snow! click for general hooliganistics


CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
02/07/14 10:58 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

Quoting Whoodoo:

Just picked the car up from the body shop yesterday.

The hood and fenders are aftermarket, so the front corners of the fenders stick in front of the hood by about a quarter inch.




One of my cars has aftermarket fenders and the same problem. I'm not too happy about it.


GSX_TC
(295hp 35r BR4)
02/12/14 06:37 AM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

glad you got it all fixed back up, bet your a happy camper now.

EgonOlsen
(Member +)
02/12/14 12:00 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

What happened to the nice wheels? bronze rota torques? Thats what I want on mine.

Whoodoo
(buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051)
02/12/14 08:35 PM
Re: build #62 - UPDATE 10/19 w/ good news

I still have them. I needed new tires on both sets of wheels so I figured I would put the skinny all seasons on the stock wheels for the winter and then put some nicer summer tires on the rotas when all the snow goes away.


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