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Hello from New Zealand, I bought my first vr-4 a 1991 rs about 6-7 months ago and have fallen for it, it has turned into a build although pretty mild so far I have big plans. Engine had 40000km since rebuild, eagle and wiseco combo. Came with a big book of receipts and servicing and has been well looked after. Body has new paint (factory white), 17' advan RC wheels wrapped in toyo t1r with some king springs and struts. It has an evo 3 manifold with a garrett t28 making 300hp on 16psi nothing special but I love it. So far I have installed 3g lifters, tore down the engine bay to look at what I had, replaced numerous gaskets, then took on a big job (for me) I rebuilt the driveshaft with all new mitsubishi oem parts with great results. I have now moved to the brakes where the bracket on the strut had bent and rubbed up my stock brakelines so I replaced them with s/s braided lines, and degreased the crap out of the underside of the wheel arch, car is looking good underneath have some minimal surface corrosion from stone chips but am YET to find anything serious. Please look through my pics I will regularly upload pics of small jobs as I go and look forward to advice from you guys, cheers, Ben. |
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She's gorgeous, love the car. |
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Looking good! |
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So as you may know from a previous post I failed a WoF (warrent of fitness) because the rear brakes were unbalanced, this is what I found After a polish it cleaned up good. I dont think it was rust, it was brake dust and crap built up as there was no pitting, the dust seal was not seated in the groove. The stainless braided lines are great and look good. I replaced the rear pads as they were on there way but didn't fully rebuild them as I want to do a five lug swap and possibly got brembos. |
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Little update, I picked up an evo III rs LSD gearbox, transfer case and axles today |
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With front LSD, nice! |
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Ryan or anyone else who would know, are they viscous or plate type LSD? The Evo3 RS box is a box I wouldn't mind running in mine at a later stage! I would want to see if I could swap the internals over to my original casing though, to make it appear original at least. |
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From what I could find they are plate. edit: viscous front plate rear |
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Will the evo3 axles fit a vr4? I thought they were shorter. |
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I will check edit: no they are shorter. |
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You will need to mate the Evo inner cvs with 4bolt axles to make it work. There is a how to here for it. evo diff conversion |
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except he doesn't need to do anything to the rear diff.. he is still running the factory RS Evolution 3.909 1-way plate type LSD rear which is already a four bolt diff. |
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Ahh crap! Missed that bit! |
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small update I bought a steering rack, whilst under the car doing the prop shaft I cleaned up underneath the car I found my steering rack leaking so I think I will pull the front subframe and replace some things and repaint it. I want to give the whole front end a clean up and repaint the wheel wells too. |
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Witht the gearbox swap in full swing after frying the centre diff in the old one I'm doing the obvious maintenence work while I am in there, the flywheel resurfaced and a new main seal, I couldn't get my hands on mitsu stuff in time so i'm trying the ACL seal. I know mitsubishi oem is the best but it will be me fixing it if it fails. They make quality parts so feel comfortable with it, also bought a competition cluth 4 puk race clutch. Like all clutches I have read good and bad things but found a good reference on the competition clutch so went for it. I bought some red loctite threadlocker for the job, is that what I want to use on the flywheel bolts, and obviously I will clean up and get all the old threadlocker off. |
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Here is the replaced rear main seal and no longer leaking sump. I put my flywheel back on and my new clutch on, painted the gearbox with an alluminum colour hard wearing paint. Good day of work today, tomorow the steering rack and then I can put it back together! Snugged down the pressure plate but I dont know the torque spec for those bolts, the competition clutch paper work says follow the vehicles spec, Any one got that number on hand? |
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11-16 ft/lb, and personally I add blue loctite. |
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thank you street surgeon time to get a galant workshop manual now |
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Like this? Body Electrical Chassis Mechanical |
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So today the gearbox went back in, it has been about 5 years since I had last done one so it was a shit-fight but with the help of a mate its done. It bolts right up although there is extra holes for bolting to the 7bolt evo block but engine mounts etc etc all worked. I am not 100% convinced the shifter cables will work although in the same place it feels weird on the stick, we will see once it moves. It had been sitting for the last month anyway here is a picture all painted and in the car it complements the engine bay. |
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so all back together now i started it but as i thought shifters are off i have 1st 3rd and 5th but it just grinds in 2nd 4th and reverse, can i adjust what i have, if its grinding it means it aint far from getting in gear right so are there small adjustments i used the bracket for the cables from my old gearbox so, and everything is basically the same except the box im a bit stumped here? |
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Yes there's adjustments at the shifter base. Should be 10mm and be for the side to side action. Try adjusting it longer first. If it feels worse then go the opposite way. |
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no luck just getting frustrated now |
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I can't believe I didn't notice it earlier, the rubber boot around the shift cable is torn through and when you shift to 2nd, 4th and reverse it bulges and bends out the side of the boot taking the path of least resistance rather than shift gear. definiteley is the problem as it goes into 1st, 3rd and 5th. |
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have you tried moving the selector without the cable ends on the trans? will they go into all gears? |
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yea, it will go into gear when its off but it bends and bulges taking the path of least resistance rather than push the selector arm forward, must have been perished and let go when I pulled them off the gearbox. |
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that sounds more like adjustment issues then cable issues. have a pic of the cable? a torn boot shouldn't effect the operation of the cable. it will just let dirt and other things in to gum up the cable. |
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no pic as of yet but it does, the top boot where the cables clip to the bracket on the gearbox theres a boot, maybe my ones are different than the usdm ones?? |
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Manual says this is the same procedure for an AWD. |
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going good, it goes in all gears i can drive it now took alot of adjusting up at the gearstick end, still needs more adjusting i will go for a small drive and feel it out, def working though appreciate it. |
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so i took the car for a good drive today upto a hardpark in tauranga, ive put close to 300km on the new clutch and its starting to scrub in still some chatter but it doesnt feel as bad as the first drive not as much shuddering and noise, have some rattles and some noise on deceleration so will go back under and look over it, the old gearbox code is W5M332NQBK its NOT an e38a rs box from what i can find its a normal 3.545 box and had been run with a 3.909 diff, make an educated guess here that it burnt out the centre diff, will check rear diff now but this swap has got rid of so much vibration its amazing, a whole new car, i know what to look for next time although there are wankers all over with cars doing half ass shit New Zealand has to be one of the worst places. |
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That blows. Definitely check the rear diff. Should have been checked before swapping new parts in, but you live and learn. Good luck. |
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yea the diff is the correct ratio for my current setup but i wanna make sure it aint on its way out as a result of P.O failings, will empty the oil and check it today |
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Gotcha. fingers crossed. |
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right so before i drop my diff oil to check for scum (fingers crossed) i want to get oil to replace the old stuff now i have read and read and read but this has to be one of the most contradicting things out whats good and whats bad, what is good for a plate lsd and whats bad example heavy shockproof or not? |
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I've always run redline heavyweight shockproof in the tcase and rear diff, no problem. EDIT>> I just have the std viscuous lsd rear diff though. |
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Yea I emailed redline, again someone said it was developed for this purpose but will wait and see what the makers of the product say. I will put it in the transfer case though try and absorb a bit of shock from this aggressive clutch |
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so been a while, car is sitting waiting. starting to stockpile a few things for a build, the plan is to build a second engine. im no where near any major work just jumping on parts when i see a good price, found a deal for a front case oil pump, it aint oem. heres a link. click should i just flag it and go oem or are you safe with an aftermarket front case. its new unused and much cheaper than the above, left over from some guys build |
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been a while havent been doing anything with cars lately, works been busy and focused on finishing my apprenticeship but going to get back into it this easter weekend so in preparation i bought my self it will be good to get back into it. |
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So I got back into it this weekend, now that I have finished my apprenticeship i can put more time and now money (yeah!!!) into the build. This time around I am going to fix a series of leaks, clean up the engine, paint the block, clean up the engine bay (repaint and mild wire tuck), rebuild the front subframe and replace the worn out steering rack. Also by the looks of it one of them crappy ebay BSE kits was used, without the oil groove and that big puk you goop in the front case that leaks, so i ordered the oem parts for a BSE and maybe a new front case. I have seen the results of a stub shaft without the groove and it seized in there and wrecked an oil pump so i could still be up for worse yet. took me six hours (casual with beers in between) to pull the motor. First time without my good mate giving me a hand but it was sweet, labelled most things because I wasn't sure how long it would be out for. This engine hoist was a great purchase just need a bigger shed. |
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gone in a different direction with my build, going to use an evo 1 or 2g head, sent off to be ported and flow benched. slowly stockpiling parts now and found this for $100 it was rough and covered in flakey red paint after 6 hours of sanding i got it primed and its in good nik, slight scuffing but no dents or warpage and came with all bumper supports, foglights, no broken fixing points. not sure if ill use it on my car yet but for $100 why wouldnt you grab it |
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I'll take it for $100.... |
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i dont know if im going to use it yet man, i put it on the car it fit perfect and looks good, spent hours sanding so wouldnt let it go for $100, either way i may have an evolution spec bumper or AMG bumper for sale soon got to fund these new parts. got my supertech s/s nitrated valves and PAC beehive springs, tit retainers in today. im selling most of my old setup off, have gt2860rs turbo setup, evo 0 intercooler with alloy piping, cyclone intake, evo III exhaust mani, a 4 puck comp clutch kit 2000kms on it etc most stuff probably not worth the expense shipping to states but if interested in anything PM me. |
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Engine is moving forward faster than I had first aimed for, Evo 1 cylinder head is back all portwork done and assembled with kelford springs, supertech valves and stem seals, gsc revised lifters, evo 8 rockers and kiggly HLA. Have my cams and all my oem parts in including oil pump front case, sensors, gaskets, all new timing covers and almost every oem bolt I could get my hands on. Have not locked in a rotating assembly yet, have been entertaining the idea of a 2.3L lately but still undecided. Got a kiggly girdle all my arp hardware, although iv'e been thinking of getting some h11 headstuds. And started buying some new bushings for the underside. Will post some pics soon but head is nicely wrapped up and clean so want to keep it that way. cheers for reading. |
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looks good, whats the chassis no |
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Clean car. Looking forward for more photos. |
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Thank you both, chassis number is E38A-0002257. More parts came in grabbed the 3 piece chromoly crossmember from Paul Volk/99gstracer, Its a great piece quality fabrication. Went with the silver fidanza adjustable cam gears, seems the polish alluminum look may carry on in the engine bay just don't want to over-do it, other than that no big updates plan to buy some rods soon but to stroke or not to stroke??? |
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Got an another parcel today, bought some rods. I am sticking with the original plan of a built 2.0l These are some serious rods, come with H11 rod bolts and they are a nice piece. Next is pistons, I have a goal to have this motor built by the end of this year and I am on track with that. After that I will have to slow down and start saving, Me and three mates are going to Japan in 2015 and I want to try and track down parts for chassis over there, should be a great trip cannot wait! |
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Small update for those that follow, engine is currently at the shop. Block is machined and all my parts are there ready for assembly bar a headgasket. I have chopped and changed so many bits and pieces since I first started this build. I went for the kelford tx272 and sold the crowers, pistons I am using the wiseco 10.5:1 e85 piston kit instead of 8.5:1. Sold my magnus smim in favor of the yet to be released 2g evo 1 2 3 magnus cast intake and lots of other misc parts throughout. Should have the engine back from the shop late August then it can be pieced back together. |
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My motor is built, I really wanted to assemble this myself but a build of this scale was a bit to much to take on as a first build. basic specs of the engine -6 bolt 4g63 block bored to 85.5mm, line honed and decked -wiseco 1400HD 10.5:1 e85 piston kit 85.5mm -Crower billet steel I-beam con rods with H11 rod bolts -eagle 88mm stroke forged crank -ACL race series big end and main bearings -kiggly girdle -ARP main stud kit -Arp L19 head stud kit -cometic MLS 1.5mm head gasket -Evo 1 cylinder head port and polish,valve job, decked and modified to suit 12mm headstuds -supertech black nitrated valves (standard size) -supertech bronze valve guides -supertech valve stem seals -GSC power division HLA's -Evo 8 rocker arms -kiggly HLA oil pressure regulator -kelford valve springs and titanium retainers -kelford TX272 cams (degreed) -hks adjustable cam gears -hks timing belt -new oem waterpump, oil pump, cambelt engine mount, timing covers, pulleys, tensioner, bolts and gaskets throughout. -tilton twin plate clutch and flywheel -fluidampr There will be pictures to come but there is not much to see right now its wrapped up. Next step is to send the gearbox away to be inspected and reassembled, buy in the last few items like new engine mounts and alt relocation, rebuild front subframe and depower the steering rack, repaint the engine bay and bolt on the JM fab top mount gtx3582r and magnus v4 2g cast intake manifold. |
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I moved the car into a small storage shed last weekend, its a more suitable location to do what I am currently doing with the car, at least until I can move into my own shed. I have very quickly out grown the shed but it is dry and secure. Currently this is how the body sits, The engine bay is completely stripped bar the brake lines running to the rear which I will get when I go under next time I work on the car. The engine bay is messy built up crud over the last 24 years and there is the addition of some extra holes which will be welded up along with any other holes not needed but other than that just a repaint once all corrosion and grease is removed. And here is the engine all wrapped up on the stand waiting its turn. Thanks for reading, Ben. |
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Had another couple of hours this weekend on the car, started degreasing the firewall and engine bay. The lower radiator support had been used as a tow hook instead of the actual tow hooks either side of it and is pretty beat up, twisted and dented and a bit rusty, I spent a bit of timewith it but its buggered so I thought I would build something. I am using an affco scirrocco radiator so I made some mounts which I will bolt down with rubber bushings either side of the mounting feet on the radiator, very basic and simple design. This is the first time I have actually fabricated something. I used 35mmx3mm SHS it was sitting around from some steel work on my current building site. I used a small mig welder with gasless wire, I have everything to go gas with it except the gas so that will be next and wether I use this crossmember or not I am unsure, the welds are strong but untidy and I sure could use some more experience but at the very least it was successful. I welcome any feed back please. Thanks for reading, Ben. |
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Nice one Ben, Glad to see some progress on your build, must be agony having the engine all ready to go but having to get the chassis squared away. Good on you for having a crack at something new, its the only way to gain experience. |
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Thank you. You are right, all I want to do is put the engine in and start enjoying it! I only have my self to blame, I could have completed the chassis work whilst the engine was built but I wasn't quick enough to get it in to a better shed, it is what it is. Even if I do not use that crossmember it was a valuable lesson in welding. I am currently looking into a local evening welding course which will be great, It is a pretty big thing around here to be doing all your own work as it should be when you build a car and apart from my engine and stainless steel/aluminum fabrication I plan on doing it all myself. Your car has come along nicely too it is great to see it back running and I am looking out for those pictures! Thanks mate, Ben. |
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So another day on the car and some good progress, Managed to get the engine bay primed. I need a couple more hours and some body filler to get it just right before I paint it. I was hoping to complete it this weekend but it was not to be. I also stripped the front subframe, burnt out the old bushings, degreased and watersprayed it. This is ready to be sent off to be powder coated along with a couple of other bits and pieces I am yet to clean. Thanks for reading, Ben. |
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Another couple of weekends spent on the car and alot of progress. The engine bay is painted I am happy with how this came out, good old mitsubishi WO9 sophia white. Last weekend I pulled the rear subframe and removed all the old factory bushings, That along with the front subframe and control arms is down to be zinced and powder coated. Probably a 3 week wait for that because the local shop is flat out, in the mean time I will start hoarding all the new bushings and do the 5 lug swap. All the parts are in, bought the 1g dsm front hubs (non abs) new along with all new oem wheel bearings and seals I need. The rears are NLA so I bought a second hand set from Nate Crisman of performance partout. This should happen soon, I have to buy a bearing press first though. Also got in a set of avid racing billet aluminum engine mounts, I cannot wait to get the engine back in finally! Thanks for reading, Ben. |
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Got some stuff back from the powdercoater this week They came out great! now just to put them back together, have the boostx rear bushings yet to buy some fronts. Bolted the turbo setup on the engine, Have the valve cover in at the fabricators getting a new baffle fitted and some AN fittings for the catch can, also the afco scirrocco radiator and thermostat housing to get AN fittings welded on, this should be done early this coming week. Magnus 2g cast intake manifolds are done and ship out this Monday so hopefully that will turn up next week too. |
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Coming together nicely Ben, great work! |
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Thanks Ryan appreciate it, that valve cover baffle I bought from you almost 2 years ago is finally getting installed. |
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Crikey, don't even remember selling you one! |
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coming togther, you be ripping it up soon |
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bringing this back from the dead! Had this whole project advertised for sale, couldn't let go. I had to sell the magnus and the turbo plus manifold to fix my van, now the van has been fixed and sold I have "invested" alot of money back into this project to hopefully push it over the line. I got another V4 which I painted and polished the lettering a BNIB facelift JDM front and a host of other new parts, a precision 6466, bigger kelfords, sparktech COP cdi ignition, evo 9 brembos and many other less interesting bits. also a half rad to acommodate the new turbo setup. Should start seeing parts fly through the door over the next two weeks and in between continue with the 5 stud swap, subframes and cleaning out this damn shed. want to get this thing rolling asap to send it off for a cage. I will keep the thread updated when I start ticking off some more stages of this build. Any fellow kiwis looking for an afco scirrocco radiator? never been used, hit me up ill look after you plus I have a dsm water neck with the coolant filler that will go with. it has 20an fittings welded onto the radiator. thanks for reading. |
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Wow, that bumper looks so nice! What is the price tag on one of those and are they still available? |
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I think they still show up through amayama, this was bought through ralliart NZ for $920NZD. quite pricey when it doesn't come with any supports or the second vent but I gave up trying to find a second hand one that wasn't crap. |
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This build looks great! Keep the updates coming. |
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Alright alright alright!!! Great to see you back in the game. I knew the "sellup" wasn't in your heart. Sounds like you have become very committed. Wicked. My galant is going great, I have just got to the point where I am winding up the wick. Sitting at 20psi boost at the moment and pulling well (Still got a fair amount of timing to add in order to really "wake it up"). I have run out of MAF volume so a 399MAF is on the way which means a new air intake setup also. We will have to arrange a catch up so I can take you for a spin and try to ramp up your motivation to finish the RS. |
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for sure! plenty of updates to come too |
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HUGE WEEKEND! As parts started showing up I got my lazy ass back into the shed to finish all the bushings and ball joints up front. I stripped back both wheel wells up front, removed the minimal rust and sprayed them with a kill rust epoxy enamel. Over top of that I sprayed a stone shield paint. Then I installed the front subframe. Bolted up one lower control arm, Put the BC's up front and a front spindle. This is the first time in about a year this car has had a wheel fitted and that includes the steering wheel Now, the car has been minus an engine where it should be for over two years, finally I sat it in the there along with alot of the other goodies I was waiting on Its a JMfabrications front facing 1g dsm manifold with a 3 inch downpipe with recirc for the mvr44. The turbo is a v-band in and out precision 6466 BB and obviously a magnus. I am over the moon with this setup and the progress, the fitment for the front facing turbo is mint, the magnus is getting close to the brake booster and I suspect the master cylinder will be in the way but for now I just stand back and smile. Next up is the rear end and stripping the underside of the car and re-coating like I did up front, pulling the fuel tank and giving that a birthday on top of the diff, transfer case and gearbox. Thanks for reading, Ben. |
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Nice work Ben. FYI - My JMF intake mangifold is very tight on the brake booster also. Ive used a 90 degree silicone bend to get it to work. |
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Thanks Ryan, good to hear this issue can be overcome easily. I have v-bands for the intercooler piping so i'll have to throw the master on and see where it all lands. How was the trip? |
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Test fit of the Evo 9 brembos, I would feel I little more comfortable with a tad more room between the calliper and spoke. These are 17x8 +35. |
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Been a long time but it is still moving ahead. I found another set of 17x8 +35 RPF1's for bugger all so I bought them, really the only thing stopping the car from rolling is I did not have tires. Since the last update I have -run the fuel feed -8 and fuel return -6 -made the fuel lines to and from the rail/reg and return -run new brake line to all four corners -installed wheels and pushed it outside for the first time in almost two years! Up for some massive suspension adjustments this thing is all over the show, the subframes front and rear were torn to pieces. I have to finish the brembo upgrade, I need to either modify some hand brake cables or have some made also brakelines from the hardline to caliper. When I have the brakes completed its all off for the roll cage and engine bay fabrication. In the meantime I have this to enjoy, Its a clean 1995 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III, feels good to be behind the wheel of an old school mitsu again. Thanks for reading |
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Nice, so no 4ws and you have a 4bolt rear on this rs? |
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Yes no 4ws and a 4 bolt rear |
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Hey Ben hows the E38A VR4 RS coming along ? I know its been a few years just wondering if you still have it |
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He has been posting his updates on the Facebook page. |