06/30/05 11:45 PM
Bingos Weekly’s Back With Cheap Effective Performance

Well all of us do know is that power means money. There are the few free type modifications and such but nothing of substantial significance. This issue of bingos weekly I will talk about modifications that you can perform for less than 100 bucks.

First thing I will talk about is blueprinting many people have heard this word and not understand entirely what it means. Blueprinting is to build an engine to exact tolerances. When you see a spec like .005-.006 clearance for a part it is called general. In blueprinting you make sure that every piston is exactly the same size, each combustion chamber ( the area in the head between the valves and the top of the piston) is the same volume. You want the engine to be as exact as possible. Most blueprinting can be done for free. When you get your pistons take them to a machine shop that can measure the piston diameter and then if there are any of them off from specification send them back until all of them are matched. When measuring combustion chamber volume you will need a graduated cylinder, piece of Plexiglas, and a type of glue that can be removed. Drill a small hole in the Plexiglas and adhere it to the head. Pour some sort of solvent in the chamber ( has low surface tension ) until full. Pour from head into a graduated cylinder. You want all of your chambers to match your largest chamber. Sand away material until results are achieved. When you are done take sand paper and polish the combustion chamber. Polishing it will provide better flow and reduce detonation. Cost for this may cost anywhere from twenty five to zero dollars depending on what you have at home. Also with the affect of less detonation you can run a larger compression ratio or more boost safely.

Polishing rods and the inside of the block also are beneficial. Removing the casting flash (metal sale/roughness) you reduce its stress points making it stronger. When polishing rods remove the flash until smooth and then make the sanding stroke of your final polish go along the length of the rod. A rod polish can make it up to 10% stronger and also help shed oil making your engine rev faster. Polishing the inside of your engine will help oil make its trip back to the pan faster. These modifications can be done for the price of sand paper.

Balancing your rotating assembly. This may be some what pricey but worth it. Balancing is also a blueprinting modification. Making the counter weights on a crankshaft balance the weight of the pistons and rods and having the pistons and rods weigh all the same weight, makes a smooth running high revving engine that is more reliable then the factory ever could make it. This also makes it unnecessary to run balance shafts. When you bring your stuff the machine shop bring your rods, bearings, pins, locks, pistons, and rings so it can be as accurate as possible. If you do any ceramic coatings do them first.

Porting and polishing your head. The trick here is don’t remove too much. You can do as little as removing the casting flash or a full port job making tons of flow. Never on any intake will you polish the port to finer than 80 grit. When doing a port match it would be better for the intake port to be larger ant the exhaust runner be larger than the opposite (causing turbulence). When port matching use the gasket that will be used. Place it on the head using the bolts. Place a dot in each corner. Remove the gasket and then use a straight edge to make the dots connect. Remove material to the line and blend it back into the port about 1 ½ inches in the port. Be sure to make smooth edges. You can also make the valve guide support into an arrow shape to let the airflow past it smoothly. When using a bigger valve you will want to open up the bowl area (the area directly above the valve). Also you will want to remove shrouding (if a valve is open .225 in at full open the edges of the valve must be the same distance from the combustion chamber walls. If it is to close it shrouds the valve and slows airflow). You can also use the same method of matching the combustion chambers to match the port volumes. When doing a full port job I would leave it to a shop with a flow bench. That will be the only way of every making a lot of power. But for those that want to take a try at it any way here are some tips. On the intake take very little material from the short side radius (the sharper/ lower corner on the floor) on the exhaust take as little as possible from the floor. When buying a polishing kit it will usually come with a guide of instructions. You can buy these kits from jegs for around sixty bucks. My recommendation would be to port match and arrow the valve guide unless you have a flow bench. Also on the exhaust port polish them as smooth as possible.

All in all the gains without the head porting can earn gains as large as 20% more power. When one piston isn’t fighting the other and the power strokes are closer to the same it can make an engine incredibly efficient, powerful, and reliable. These modifications may be low buck but they are worth doing yourself. Machine shops don’t do low buck for cheap.

If there is anything that anyone doesn’t understand or if I forgot something let me know thanx.


07/01/05 06:43 AM
Re: Bingos Weekly’s Back With Cheap Effective Performance

Nice post, Bingo.

It seems that you are of the same train of though: Elegance before brute force


(Out Standing)
07/01/05 07:34 AM
Re: Bingos Weekly’s Back With Cheap Effective Performance

Great post!

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