presterone
('92 Protege VR-4)
03/05/13 09:55 PM
Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

I searched around a bit and it seems some of you have been able to install the rear 26mm whiteline swaybar without dropping the subframe? And also did you remove anything to fit the front bar? It almost looks as If I unbolted the rear of one of the control arms I could get it to fit.

CutlassJim
(poop load of room)
03/06/13 06:36 PM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

Getting the 26 mm bar in there sucks without dropping it. The bolts are retardedly hard to line up and barely fit with the huge bar and bracket. At least loosen the rear bolts and drop the front.

presterone
('92 Protege VR-4)
03/06/13 08:49 PM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

Yea Im just gonna wait till this weekend. I tried installing the front swaybar today as well, it almost seems I have to remove my transfer case to bolt it up. Does this seem right? The cars had no swaybars front and rear the whole time I have had it.

curtis
(Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic)
03/07/13 04:32 AM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

Your going to have to drop the exhaust and loosen if not drop one side of the front to make it go on and the rear is going to have to be dropped..... yea it sucks but just nature of the beast/bitch.


If your contemplating ever getting poly bushings for the car now is the time. The complete master including the motor mounts is just over 200 and the John aka boostx rear subframe and mustache ones are 175.


The complete master kit doesn't include the front cross bar the front motor mount attaches to but if you order an extra set of front subframe you can use a pair of them in the bar and s-lit the cost and sell off the other 2 pair. Think there like 40 bucks. Thanks Kenny for figuring that out the front cross bar. And with boostx set only thing in the rear thats left is the trailing arm ones which most people remove the rear steering rack and install the giant heim joints. That completes 95% of the car only thing not addressed is the strut tops front and rear, rear lower bushings and the carrier bearings. Inside the 2G talon master kit that include a set of poly shifter base bushings. Guess what they fit the carrier bearing mounts. I figured that one out. Your welcome. If anyone needs that part number yell. As far as price you can go to energy suspension parts .com and order all this for a talon. The boostx ones... I only have 2 sets one for my workbench of a car and one for Anthony's so I'm zero balance but I'm sure John has a few sets to sell. Now Paul aka Cheeychimp said in an email he found pillow ball style bearings that fit perfect in the UK to fit in the bottom of the rear shocks. Here in the states finding a metric bearing sucks but might get lucky. I'm going to try when the work bench starts going together and becoming a car.


presterone
('92 Protege VR-4)
03/07/13 07:09 AM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

Thanks. I have a set of polygraphite bushings for the rear I could use. I pulled my front control arm out last night thinking I could fit the sway bar in that way and one bolt came out with flattened and chewed up threads. I was here till nine o clock trying to get a bolt to fit.

transparentdsm
(I have to say something dumb Member)
03/07/13 08:14 AM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

become very good friends with PB blaster and a tap and die set. i know i am.

1dvsdsm
(Junior Member)
11/07/15 11:17 PM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

I am in the middle of the whiteline sway bar/ complete bushing replacement install. Did any of you have any clearance issues with the swaybar hitting the underside of the trailing arm by an inch and a half? also the swaybar links dont line up very well. I will get some pics up after IFO tomorrow.

pot
(It's a twee shaker----choot him choot him)
11/08/15 09:15 AM
Re: Swaybar install without dropping subframe.

I installed my 26mm adjustable Whiteline bar w/ the subframe on the car. It was a breeze unlike the front bar. Having said that, if I recall right, my only issue was getting the top and or middle hole to the end link secured. Either of those two holes (adjustment points) would cause the bar to hit the trailing arm. The noise from hitting was more pronounced during heavy straight-line acceleration and hard right hand cornering.

This condition was on a 85,000 mile galant with no body damage and recent four wheel alignment.



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