**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/04 07:42 AM
2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I've got a 2.4 6 bolt crank from a 86 galant (this is supposedly the forged crankshaft- 4g64, that fits into the 4g63). To my understanding if I get Wiseco pistons (pn K571M855; 85.5mm pistons which is what I have right now- .020 over), supposedly I can use the stock 4g63 rods and wham, I'm done. Does anyone know where I can confirm this? Any "gotchas" I need to be aware of?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/04 08:01 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I'm not sure if that's the right crank or not, but if it is and you have the right pistons, yes you can use the stock 1g rods as long as the wristpin location has been moved up in the piston to compensate for the longer stroke.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/04 08:18 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

There is some minor grinding that needs to be done inside the block to clear the new rod angles, and your wrist pin needs to be moved. Otherwise you're good to go =)

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/04 09:30 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by anomalyva:
There is some minor grinding that needs to be done inside the block to clear the new rod angles, and your wrist pin needs to be moved. Otherwise you're good to go =)

I agree.

liquidgvr4: For informational purposes, what did you pay for the pistons and the 4g64 crankshaft? Did you get the crank from a 2.4 block in a junkyard?

If you have the funding you should upgrade to at least Eagle rods while you have it apart. $319 is a fairly good deal IMO.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/20/04 12:01 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

liquidgvr4,

The K571 pistons are the correct ones for this application. I just ordered a set myself. Just have your machine shop pay close attention to the Wiseco piston clearance specs - they need a lot more than stock cast pistons otherwise they will sieze in the bores due to expansion.

Outside of normal block rebuild issues and the aforementioned clearancing of the block you are good to go. It is that simple which is why I went this way instead of the full 4g64 route.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/21/04 10:34 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I'd rather go the the 6-bolt 2.4 route myself. It's easier unless you just have a 2.4 crank. But if you find a 2.4 shortblock in a junkyard, you might as well go with the 2.4 build-up instead of just doing the 2.3 stroker.

Pictures of a 2.4L(4gcs) from a 1989 Sonata that I put together for a local guy.
 -
 -


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/21/04 10:51 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Building a 2.4 is simpler than a 2.3? Could you please explain your reasoning? If I can build a true 2.4 simpler than the 2.3 I'll do it, please let me know how.

On the 2.3 beyond the crank and pistons there is no hybridization, everything else is stock 4g63.

My understanding is that on the 2.4 you have to plug passages, drill & tap oil squirters, use the 4g64k timing belt, manufacture a front engine mount and still swap pistons. What am I misunderstanding that makes the 2.4 simpler?


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/21/04 11:34 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Yeah you would have to buy a timing belt(look below), but are you going to use your old belt anyway?

89-91 Sonotas and 85-87 Galants have 6-bolt 2.4's. The plugging of holes in the deck is for 7-bolt 2.4s. Look at the above pictures and compare to a 2.0L headgasket if you need convincing.

A 6-bolt 4g64/4gcs uses the same motor mounts.

You're buying aftermarket pistons for either the 2.3L or the 2.4L.

DECK MODIFICATIONS:
1)If you use a 6 BOLT 4g64/4gcs 2.4 block there is no plugging holes in the deck.
2)Two small holes should be drilled in the deck at the front side(near the water pump, look at the pics above). Use your headgasket as a templet. You can drill these yourself before you take the block/crank to your machine shop. There's not much material here to drill through...almost impossible to screw-up.

TIMING BELT:
1)Use a timing belt from 94 Galant 2.4L DOHC($70-80)
2)Cam sproket/gears are also needed($50) unless you have a set of adjustable cam gears. (Set at +3* approximately)

Everything else from your 2.0L transfers over and bolts right on...waterpump, frontcase/oil pump/oil pump pickup tube, rear main seal, oil pan. The knock sensor bolts on as well.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/21/04 06:46 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
There is some minor grinding that needs to be done inside the block to clear the new rod angles, and your wrist pin needs to be moved. Otherwise you're good to go =)
Please explain the grinding in detail; I was hoping to do a in-car rebuild. The crank is mint condition from an 1986 4g64b galnt; got it for $25 bucks. I was going to send the crank to a machinist to micro polish it, my block is bored .020 over (and I believe the machinist mistakenly bored it "loose", so the forged wisco's should be perfect). I haven't ordered the pistons yet; I'm trying to decide since I need a new rear main, whether to do this now or build another motor. The grinding of the block may or may not be an issue.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/21/04 06:51 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
I'd rather go the the 6-bolt 2.4 route myself. It's easier unless you just have a 2.4 crank. But if you find a 2.4 shortblock in a junkyard, you might as well go with the 2.4 build-up instead of just doing the 2.3 stroker.

I don't know about other 6 bolt 4g64's (mighty max/expo), but the one that came from the early galants (they were 2.4's) had main bolts that had 17mm heads but the shaft was the same diamter of a 14mm bolt's shaft. Didn't seem too sturdy.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 06:29 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

SKA-Tay,

quote:
The plugging of holes in the deck is for 7-bolt 2.4s. A 6-bolt 4g64/4gcs uses the same motor mounts.
Okay, that explains a lot. I've seen it mentioned both ways, so I have incomplete / confused information.

quote:
Oil squirters are not needed. This is accounted for in the aftermarket piston design .
I don't agree with this at all. The oil squirters are there for piston cooling and have nothing to do with the design of the piston. For drag no squirters is fine since the engine is running for such short periods. But under any sustained load [autox, road race, top speed runs, etc.] the extra safety margin of oil squirters is essential, IMO. Especially on forged pistons where minimizing temp minimizes piston growth.

liquidgvr4,
quote:
Please explain the grinding in detail; I was hoping to do a in-car rebuild.
This does not sound like a good idea to me. With forged pistons wall clearance is critical and you are at very high risk of siezing a piston if your clearance is at all off on the small side. Too much clearance will tend towards piston slap, but that is not catastrophic.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 07:02 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

This is a quote from www.dsmtuners.com:

quote:
1. 94-98 Galant 4g64 Block, can be a SOHC or DOHC, or 96-99 Eclipse Spyder NT 4g64 Block. The SOHC will need 5 oil passages plugged, the DOHC will not. However the DOHC block is hard to find, only came in a 94 Galant GS DOHC. These is a pic below of the 5 holes that would need to be plugged on the SOHC block, how do you plug these?

Just depends if you go SOHC or DOHC as far as plugging the holes go.

quote:
I don't agree with this at all. The oil squirters are there for piston cooling and have nothing to do with the design of the piston. For drag no squirters is fine since the engine is running for such short periods. But under any sustained load [autox, road race, top speed runs, etc.] the extra safety margin of oil squirters is essential, IMO. Especially on forged pistons where minimizing temp minimizes piston growth.
I disagree with this. Sufficient cooling can come from proper Air/fuel mixture and I am a witness. I just got rid of a '91 GS mirage (DOHC 4 door 1.6) that I turbo-charged- I installed new rod bearings but it still had the original pistons and rings at 120k. I pounded on that veh. for a year EVERY DAY. Never any probs. What I did notice that oil squirters do (comparing the mirage to the VR4 and other buddies TEL's), is lower the oil pressure considerably. The mirage idle could dip as low as 300rpm but the oil light never came on. The VR4 (and other turbo TEL's) could dip to 700rpm and the oil light begins to flicker. If I had a DOHC 2.4 I would build it with no squirters and just make sure I had enough fuel so the veh. didn't run lean and raise the egt's. Oil squirters may help cool slightly, but I don't like the impact they have on overall oil pressure. And I've spun bearings before in DSM's; I've never had issues with pistons seizing. In all fairness I've only turbo'ed 1 veh that didn't come turbo.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 07:47 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Has anyone actually stroked a 2.0 and had to grind? I'm getting conflicting info about the grinding.

JonGalant VR4.org Administrator
(Administrator)
01/22/04 07:54 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I believe this is how it goes:
4G64 is a 2.4L 7 bolt engine.
G64B is a 2.4L 6 bolt engine.

If you want to build a 2.4L engine, use the G64B block and crank instead of the 4G64 short block. Many times, people call the 6 bolt 2.4L engine a 4G64 but it is really a G64B engine.

I've never heard of the 4GCS.


GVR-4
(Creative Name Huh?)
01/22/04 08:06 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

http://www.swordfishgsx.8m.com/4G64/shortblock4.jpg

http://www.swordfishgsx.8m.com/photo4.html

I think the 4gcs is a 7 bolt also.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 09:23 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

One concern I had with the 2.4L block was the larger bore and what head gasket to use. I don't believe you can get the Ralliart gasket for the oversized bore of the 2.4L block. Especially if you have to bore it 20-over. This would mean o-ringing the head and block and using a copper gasket. I figure the 2.3L stroker will be fine and I won't have to worry about it with the Ralliart gasket.

Oil Squirters:
Don't they have a check ball that only lets oil pass through above a certain oil pressure? Maybe that's a Honda squirter I'm thinking of. I personally like the idea of oil squirting. If you have low pressure issues, change your oil. It's either due for a change anyway or you could use a thicker weight oil due to wear on the pump. I had a bad experience with 20w50, so I stick with 10w30 though. I have heard of several who love it though.


dc_style
(Member ++)
01/22/04 09:39 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

wow... stupid for me to post a separtate topic. i'm using the block from an 89 hyundai sonata. i believe it will bolt right up. correct me if i'm wrong..

just wondering. does anyone actually have a finished 2.4? and what were the gains?


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 10:28 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by Jon:
I've never heard of the 4GCS.

Yeah it's really a G4CS...my bad for posting 4gcs in the first place.

RRE Mitsu engine info HERE.

The pictures above are a G4CS and here's another with the ID stamped right on it.
 -


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 10:35 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by lambertvr4:
One concern I had with the 2.4L block was the larger bore and what head gasket to use. I don't believe you can get the Ralliart gasket for the oversized bore of the 2.4L block. Especially if you have to bore it 20-over. This would mean o-ringing the head and block and using a copper gasket. I figure the 2.3L stroker will be fine and I won't have to worry about it with the Ralliart gasket.

Cometic makes a MLS head gasket for the 2.4L stock bore and overbore. Many DSM vendors carry Cometic HGs.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/22/04 10:45 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by dc_style:
wow... stupid for me to post a separtate topic. i'm using the block from an 89 hyundai sonata. i believe it will bolt right up. correct me if i'm wrong..

just wondering. does anyone actually have a finished 2.4? and what were the gains?

It will bolt right in. What turbo are you planning on running?

GVR-4
(Creative Name Huh?)
01/22/04 10:46 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

What do you do about the smaller combustion chamber in the 4g63 head? The stock bore on the 4g63 is 85mm, but the stock bore on the g64b is 86.5mm. Does it matter?

dc_style
(Member ++)
01/23/04 12:01 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

i'm planning on sticking with the 14b for a bit until i find a 16g. all i know is that spool up will be really quick. but yeh, i'd like to knwo the gain. i recently bought the evo 6 intercooler from someone.. any good?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/23/04 02:41 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by GVR-4:
What do you do about the smaller combustion chamber in the 4g63 head? The stock bore on the 4g63 is 85mm, but the stock bore on the g64b is 86.5mm. Does it matter?

Eh, just think of it as extra quench area. [Wink]

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/23/04 06:31 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

News on the block grinding; supposedly when using the 6 bolt 2.4 crank with stock 2.0 rods and custom pistons, you shouldn't have to grind. But in the case of the posted site/picture above, he used longer rods, and that increases the outward range of travel of the side of the rod (one of those reasons why I should've paid attention in geometry class).
Oil squirters- the dips in oil pressure on my VR4 is with a new oil pump, and it's been even after an oil chane where I topped off hte oil. Usually on turbo dsm's (in my circle of buddies here) if the rpm's dip to 600 to 700, the oil light flickers (not solid). The non-turbos seem to have more pressure, even after turbo-charging a non-turbo.


GVR-4
(Creative Name Huh?)
01/23/04 07:51 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I've heard the piston skirts on a 2.4 will dip into the oil at the bottom of the stroke. Can anyone confirm this?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/23/04 09:03 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Not sure, but that would reason that the stock 2.4L pistons were 6mm from dipping into the oil stock. Maybe, but I doubt it. What's it matter anyway? Sounds like a "natural" replacement for thos pesky oil squirters. [Smile]

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/28/04 11:50 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I've heard of folks shaving the piston skirts a few mm just to be safe. If the pistons do dip into the oil, you'll be foaming the oil..not good. Swapping the crank in the car is a total bitch, as you still have to move the tranny off the engine to get at the flywheel bolts...remember? It is much easier to pull the motor. I just finished an IN THE CAR rebuild on the white eclipse gsx and let me tell you that it was the stupidest thing I ever did. It worked, but prying the damned upper thrust bearing out with the crank in was a total nightmare. To each his own though. There isn't a guy who owns a dsm that isn't a masochist at heart...these cars have some strange engineering. I have a dohc 4 banger 91 camry with almost 200k on the original timing belt. Try that in our cars. The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much for the sqirters to get stuck open or closed. The 2g squirters are also a contributor to the 2g crank walk problem, as the squirters are fed off the main and rod bearing oil feed, not a separate oil feed as in the 1g big rod motors. Nothing like reducing your oil pressure to the rod and mains at high rpm to get people in the dealership spending money.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 06:00 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!! [Mad]

I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!! [Razz]


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 07:13 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
News on the block grinding; supposedly when using the 6 bolt 2.4 crank with stock 2.0 rods and custom pistons, you shouldn't have to grind.
On my 4g63 block using stock rods, 2.4 crank and Wiseco stroker pistons as best I could tell [it was hard to get a feeler gauge in there] there was not enough clearance [>1.25mm / 0.050" recommended by a reputable local race engine builder] for the rod end especially on the oil squirter side. Just to be safe I ground the lower edges of the cylinders and flattened the casting step in the block on the oil squirter side. Too much clearance is better than the alternative. [Smile]

quote:
(edited) Sufficient cooling can come from proper Air/fuel mixture and I am a witness....Oil squirters may help cool slightly, but I don't like the impact they have on overall oil pressure.
I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure. If you don't like squirters because of the oil pressure drop, that's a completely separate issue from whether or not the squirters provide some piston cooling. Mitsu very clearly states in the Tech Manual that the squirters are there to cool the pistons. If Mitsu didn't think they had a useful benefit, they wouldn't have spent the money to install them. I'll agree that with proper tuning they may not be necessary, however, I want the extra safety margin since I will have the car running WOT for 45min to run the Silver State Challenge and that is incredibly tough on any cooling system.

quote:
(edited) Oil squirters- the dips in oil pressure on my VR4 is with a new oil pump...Usually on turbo dsm's (in my circle of buddies here) if the rpm's dip to 600 to 700, the oil light flickers (not solid).
This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership never having spun a bearing or had a oil pressure problem of any kind. The only time I've ever seen the low oil pressure light is when my friend used 0W Mobil 1 in the summer. At my first Talon's 150k mile refresh the original bearings were excellent and the bores still had the original crosshatch. Guess I've just had good luck.

Anyway, as far as the 2.3/2.4 swaps go, to each his/her own since there are many "right" ways to do it all depending on your goals. I'll just say that I'm finding the 2.4 crank in 2.0 swap very easy, painless, relatively inexpensive and things are going well. Yeah the rod ratio sucks, but I won't be revving the thing beyond the stock redline so I'm not worried.


dc_style
(Member ++)
01/29/04 09:16 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

how much did it cost you to put in the oil squirters?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 09:27 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by fast_gvr4:
Since I posted this before in detail, but my post was erased!!! [Mad]

I'll post in short words 2.4 rod ratios suck!!! [Razz]

People and rod ratio. IT IS A NON ISSUE! I have 4 friends, one with over 20k miles, who all run their 2.3L stroker or 2.4's up to 8500-9k rpm. They all drive the cars hard, and NONE of them have had issues. Yes the rod ratio is worse than the 2.0, but it is still within acceptable range. You will have a non-shifting tranny long before rod ratio starts breaking parts.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 09:35 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I agree 100% with anomalyva

ROD RATIO in a nonissue now. Plenty of high HP, much higher than all of you, have gone to 9000rpms. Don't buy JE pistons and build the stroker right and it will be troublefree


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 09:42 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by Beemer:
The 2g oil squirters have check balls. Ours do not.

False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 10:22 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
False! The 1G squirters DO HAVE a check valve in them. It is built into the bolt that holds them in
actually your right; now I remember they do have a little spring in the bolt (sometimes I confuse starions and eclipse engines because I've done both, but both have the springs I think).

quote:
I can agree to disagree on this issue, but let's not confuse the two - cooling and oil pressure.
My statement was meant to be a comparison of trade-offs; sorry it that wasn't clear. I didn't confuse to two.

quote:
This interests me, since I've NEVER had this problem on my 3 DSMs or with either of my two closest friends. A combined 21+ years, 250k+ miles of ownership
Who know's; maybe it's the warmer GA climate, I don't know. But here's my resume and that of one of my friend's: 8 mitsu turbo cars (6 starions/conquests, one gvr4, one tel) and a former Mitsu service adviser (currently @ land rover), and I've built almost as many engines as mitsu products I've own. My buddy Mike (who experiences the same prob) has been working @ mitsu for 10 years, is currently an asst. svc manager, has a 450whp '92 talon (1998,1999,2000, and 2003 Nopi Nat'l eclipse mild class champ), slightly modded '92 eclipse (his fiancee's; 2003 Nopi Nat'l conservative class champ), and a deadly quick 1989 modded turbo colt (1.6 dohc; he doesn't experience the pressure drop in this; and to be fair my turbo mirage was a 1.6, too, so that may be unfair to include that car in my "sacraficed Oil pressure w/ squirters" theory). My buddy's bro-in-law had two tel's and even in his when the RPM's dip (when pulling from a stop and not getting on the gas, or whatever reason the rpm's dropped under certain conditions, the oil light will flicker for a brief sec. or less), it did the same thing. Why we got into listing the "resume", I don't know. I guess I just wanted to let you know that I'm not a total idiot, just partial [Big Grin]

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
01/29/04 02:05 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

dc_style,
quote:
how much did it cost you to put in the oil squirters?
I'm not sure if you are asking me, but it cost me ~$110 for the block machining and $80 for brand new oil squirter parts from Mitsu.

My poor motor - it started out it's life as a NT, then got turbo'ed and now is turning into a 2.3L. I'm sure the poor 4g63 is scared to see what I do to it next. [Big Grin]


dc_style
(Member ++)
01/29/04 03:22 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

sounds reasonable. how much for maching your 64 block? what turbo you have on it?

turboren
(Official GVR4.org Polo Shirt Pimp)
02/29/04 06:59 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by GVR-4:
I've heard the piston skirts on a 2.4 will dip into the oil at the bottom of the stroke. Can anyone confirm this?

That can't be true. The piston skirts would have to extend BELOW the rod journal at BDC. Think about it. If that were the case, the crank would be spinning in the oil all the time.

Ren


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/01/04 12:30 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

i'm glad to hear about the 2.3 not having longevity issues as that is something i am definetly going to start piecing together come summer. i'm surprised no one has talked about the 2.4 block with the 2.0 crank yet, can you say 11,000 rpm rev monster? cool idea, but i'd take peak power before 7k please. people dislike the JE's becuase of cylinder sidewall scuffing right? Ross still the way to go these days?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/01/04 12:44 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Marco / Magnus has offered the hi-rev 2.4 for a while now - 2.1L. 11k rpm would be nice if you actually get the stock tranny to shift at that speed.

As far as 2.3L pistons go, I'm building mine w/ Wiseco.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/01/04 01:40 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

yeah, i also heard about the 2.17L first from Magnus, i haven't heard of a single person using one yet though.

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/01/04 02:22 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

g64b crank part number = MD080691
bearings part number = MD091399

I'm about to order both of these so if anyone knows differently please tell me now. Groc or anyone else with a finished stroker?


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/01/04 04:24 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I also need to know if those are the right part numbers or not

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/02/04 10:14 AM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

bump...anyone?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/03/04 11:47 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

6-bolt g64b Crank: MD080691
6-bolt g64b Main Bearings: MD091399
6-bolt g64b Rod Bearings: MD071298

I ordered these today. If they're wrong i'll correct them for the archives.


JUANPSI
(Senior Member)
03/03/04 02:11 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

How much was the crank??

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/03/04 02:14 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

$500 I think. I'll get exact prices when I pickup next wed.

JUANPSI
(Senior Member)
03/03/04 02:22 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Cool thanks

Juan


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/12/04 03:38 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Picked up all the parts above with my prices at Boulder Mitsubishi:

6-bolt g64b Crank: MD080691 $504.53
6-bolt g64b Main Bearings: MD091399 $65.25
6-bolt g64b Rod Bearings: MD071298 $55.45

 -

 -

 -

 -

 -


JUANPSI
(Senior Member)
03/12/04 03:50 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Stroke it!!!!! [Devil]

GVR-4
(Creative Name Huh?)
03/12/04 05:16 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Very nice. Keep us posted on the buildup.

BTW, is Clevite just a brand of bearings? If so, are they better than stock Mitsu parts?


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/12/04 05:27 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

clevite is a brand of bearings but i've decided to go with all mitsubishi stuff. Some say clevite are better, some say OEM. No one has ever had an issue with mitsu ones and I know they are dead nuts the right size with the new crank. Clevite are slightly cheaper as well but only by ~$30 IIRC.

I'll keep everyone posted as well as do my best to keep the website up to date with pictures, prices and part numbers. Now I'm waiting on the pistons and rods from Marco in the land of floppyheads. Pistons should be here in ~2 weeks and then the block machine work can be finished save clearancing for the rods.


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/14/04 05:12 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Any who are doing a stroker motor (or those who have done them) please keep us up to date.

Problems you run across...

How much difference it makes in the end...

What you would do differently...

Also anyone from New England doing one?? I would love to look at the project in progress...

Steve
197/1000

[ 03-14-2004, 07:16 PM: Message edited by: SteveHebert ]


**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/14/04 05:27 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

quote:
Originally posted by SteveHebert:
Also anyone from New England doing one?? I would love to look at the project in progress...

I'm working on one. Still in the early stages, but hope to have it wrapped up by early summer.

The 2.4L shortblock I bought from Geoff:

- Bored .020 Over
- 8.5:1 Wiseco Pistons/Rings
- 1G Long Rods
- Balanced, Knifedged, and Lightened Crank
- Clevite Bearings
- Machined for Oil Squirters

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GVR-4
(Creative Name Huh?)
03/14/04 06:05 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

Dude, that's really nice! Got any close ups of the oil squirters?

**DONOTDELETE**
(Unregistered)
03/14/04 07:25 PM
Re: 2.3 Stroker Motor info...

I do not.... I have yet to recieve the motor, but once I do I'll try to get a few pictures of them.


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