The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

turbo rebuild ?

4doorboost

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
208
Location
Westlake Village, Cali
so i have an evo3big16g. its got some in and out play /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif so im trying to figure out what to do. as far as rebuilding it goes does anyone know who does a good job preferably in cali.. and also is there any way since in rebuilding it to possibly put like a 20g wheel in it or something along those lines to beef it up a little bit. i want to stick with a bolt up turbo since my car is setup for this. any imput appreciated
thanks
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I have used TurboAuto in Nashville, TN.

They did a great job on my EIII turbo and then the new PTE unit when upgraded.

You can find them on the web.

I would not be afraid of shipping it out.
 

BluFalcon

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2002
Messages
1,312
Location
Wichita, KS
You can use a 20G wheel with the E316G bearing housing and TD05 shaft without any machine work. However you will need to source a 20G compressor cover, or have the E316G comp cover machined to accept the new wheel. Of the two choices, I would go with sourcing a 20G cover, unless your trying to pull a fast one and have a stock looking turbo for anyone peeking into the engine bay. The 16G cover is way too small for the 20G wheel, and while it can work with the proper machining, it's far from ideal. Using a 20G cover however, will require you to change your intercooler piping to accommodate the new outlet on the cover.

Also once you rebuild the CHRA and install the new wheel, the CHRA will have to be balanced in some way. A shop can either balance the assembled CHRA or balance the rotating assembly out of the cartridge and index mark the comp wheel, shaft and compressor nut. The rotating assembly would then have to be reinstalled into the bearing housing, with the index marks aligned.
 
Last edited:

jmorri15

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
i had my 18g changed into a 20g by a guy on tuners, he fully rebuilt the turbo including replacing both wheels for like 350, here is the email i got from him once he finished it. it turned out awesome.
Quote:
Turbo's done- turned out absolutely awesome. I had a slower-than-normal week at the shop so while your compressor cover was being machined I gave the turbine housing some attention. I smoothed out the inlet a little and repaired one of the manifold mounting holes- the threads in that particular hole was little on the weak side. Even when a bolt was threaded the entire was through it felt a little "loose" to me. By polishing the inlet it also exposed some of the heat cracking in the metal below- don't be alarmed.

$150 for the rebuild- I ran short on the upgraded thrust plates and when I ordered them last week I received four of the wrong kits, so I rebuilt it with an Genuine MHI thrust plate instead. It will have the same durability as a new 20G from Mitsubishi. Turbine replacement was $55, compressor was $75, and the machinework to the cover was $50 as I had guessed....bringing the grand total to $330. You can pay via Paypal at this address ([email protected]) or send a Money Order if you'd like. If paying via Paypal please add 3% to the total to cover transaction fees as I'm not making any profit on the parts, just the labor- or I'd cover the fees myself.

After the payment is received, let me know when you want me to put the box out for FedEx to pickup and you can do whatever you gotta do on your end to let them know it's ready to be picked up.

~Jus

 

4doorboost

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
208
Location
Westlake Village, Cali
thanks, but here is my problem. this car is a daily and i dont have another turbo to run her on while i end this one out.. thats why i wanted to stay local.. i would guess shipping would take over a week to get there and back. im thinking of just getting the fphta68. anyone know of any deals out there? this thing looks bad
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
If you change the compressor wheel then the assembly will HAVE to be balanced. But, if you reassemble with the same wheel you can scribe the shaft and just make sure that it's put back together in the same orientation. That's what I did rebuilding my 14b and it's been great so far. You can get a good quality kit from "tradergreg" who is a reputable, knowledgeable guy. click I recommend you contact him first and make sure you get the correct thrust washer since the 14b uses a different thrustwasher than the 16g variants. Here's some more info... click
 
Last edited:

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
Quoting BluFalcon:
You can use a 20G wheel with the E316G bearing housing and TD05 shaft without any machine work. However you will need to source a 20G compressor cover, or have the E316G comp cover machined to accept the new wheel. Of the two choices, I would go with sourcing a 20G cover, unless your trying to pull a fast one and have a stock looking turbo for anyone peeking into the engine bay. The 16G cover is way too small for the 20G wheel, and while it can work with the proper machining, it's far from ideal. Using a 20G cover however, will require you to change your intercooler piping to accommodate the new outlet on the cover.

Also once you rebuild the CHRA and install the new wheel, the CHRA will have to be balanced in some way. A shop can either balance the assembled CHRA or balance the rotating assembly out of the cartridge and index mark the comp wheel, shaft and compressor nut. The rotating assembly would then have to be reinstalled into the bearing housing, with the index marks aligned.



I bought a 20G wheel and 'evo3' style 20G compressor cover to suit, it's basically a copy of the Evo III 16G turbo (complete with correct part numbers) but the inlet snout is bigger in diameter to suit the 20G wheel. It bolts in place of the 16G housing. I got it from Kinugawa Turbo in Japan, although the parts came shipped to me from Taiwan. I purchased the genuine MHI rebuilt kit along with it, came to about US$240 all up including delivery. Got it from kando_dynamic on eBay.
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
also if you end up keeping the 16G wheel I would be inclined to rebuild the turbo yourself.. it's fairly easy to do and you don't need any specialist tools other than a vice, some circlip pliers, a bunch of small screwdrivers, and socket set. Just make sure you mark the position of the wheel and nut in relation to the shaft and you should be fine.
 

89Mirageman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I would honestly just buy a brand new Evo III 16g for around $550. Especially since its a daily driver. Then once you swap it out you should be able to get $100-$200 for yours for someone else to rebuild/upgrade. You can swap them out in a few hours and be back on the road. Plus you have the peace of mind of using a brand new part vs used/rebuilt.
 
Last edited:

BluFalcon

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2002
Messages
1,312
Location
Wichita, KS
Quoting fuel:

I bought a 20G wheel and 'evo3' style 20G compressor cover to suit, it's basically a copy of the Evo III 16G turbo (complete with correct part numbers) but the inlet snout is bigger in diameter to suit the 20G wheel. It bolts in place of the 16G housing. I got it from Kinugawa Turbo in Japan, although the parts came shipped to me from Taiwan. I purchased the genuine MHI rebuilt kit along with it, came to about US$240 all up including delivery. Got it from kando_dynamic on eBay.



Hmm, that's interesting. I had no idea they were making EVOIII style compressor covers to fit 20G wheels. How well does it work? Any issues with surging?
 

4doorboost

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
208
Location
Westlake Village, Cali
me either i always thought the 20g compressor housing didnt bolt to a j pipe.. im seriously just debating getting another evo3 or going with the fp68hta. is it worth the extra 400. i can get a new evo3 for 549 shipped. my only other option is is someone has a used turbo they wanna lend me for a like a week or two then i can send mine out. i wish i still had my 14b ha
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
click

It's not a genuine MHI item, it's a copy however it's a very good copy. Looks identical to the Evo III 16G housing apart from a larger diameter inlet, but the factory rubber hose to suit a 16G slips over it just fine.

I have it running on my VR-4 with stock J pipe along with all other stock inlet piping and it goes well. I had the exhaust wheel clipped 7 degrees to try match the extra flow of the 20G.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top