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Tranny grind..

Ok here goes.. Shop calls me an says we are having problem with the tranny( Rebuild from miysu Graveyard and Gary) The tranny grings in all gears. They are saying it's because of the clutch 2600 ACT. I asked them if they bleed the system and they said yes so I asked if they adjusted the clutch pedal and they said "NO" arent you supposed to adjust the pedal when changing the clutch and or tranny? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gifThey have had my car for three weeks today.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
 

1990ggsxnj

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Nov 21, 2008
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Blackwood, NJ
Usually it's not so bad that it will grind in all gears unless the shifter cables have been messed with. Did you ever check the peddle assembly for wear?
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

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Jul 26, 2004
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NYC
A 2600 will expose weaknesses in the clutch/drivetrain assembly that you couldn't notice with a stock clutch. I learned my lesson on my 91 eclipse gsx when I just installed the 2600 and called it a day but just a week later my slave cylinder went, then a month later the master went and finally the stuck clutch fork broke so the transmission had to be removed again.


Was the ball new? Was there a washer installed?
 

Barnes

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Richland, WA
Holy crap. "you aren't supposed to adjust it" What the hell kinda crack are they smoking. Assuming your flywheel is stepped correctly, all your clutch parts are fine (TOB, master/slave, etc), and everything is bolted tight (tranny to engine, slave). Then yeah, they need to adjust the pedal. Morons. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 

I did not check the pedal for wear, Not sure how anyway, But the car before only grinded into 2nd gear before bad syncro.. They replaced the whole tranny so I know the cables were off but they should now how the adjust them..
 

I welded my clutch pedal assembly, new slave/master/lines, and adjusted the pedal to no play, and it was the best clutch I ever stepped on. Incredibly direct.

Before welding the bracket, I had play 1/4 of the pedal throw befoe the slave moved at all. This is a big thing and the job is a pain in the ass. Steering column has to come out, etc.

And actually I had to add a turnbuckle to the master rod to get more range out of it.

Either that, or your cables are out of a talon. God knows what year either. (90/91-94)
 

The cables were in the car already just swapped out the tranny. I had no issues at except for 2nd gear. Now all gears grind.So either cable adjustment or the pedal.
 
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If its grinding in all gears(all the same) it is an issue with clutch not likely the cables. I would first adjust clutch rod then make sure flywheel step height is correct, then check if washer under release fork pivot ball is too thick. an easy way to check if the fork, ball, etc are ok... look at where the clutch fork comes out the tranny bellhousing for the slave cylinder. If it is in the center that is good. if it is too far in either direction that is bad
 

OK guys got the car back on Thursday. FN thing grinds /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif in 1st-2nd 5th and reverse, but not all the time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Will grind first from a stop if I do not sit at the light with my foot on the clutch, 2nd is hit or miss and there fifth is also a hit or miss, reverse clunks EVERYTIME if it dosent grind.. MY god man this is so upsetting /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif.

I need this fixed as the tranny is new and do not want to damage anything.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 
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spoulson

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Feb 5, 2003
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Worton, MD
Reverse has no synchronizer. So, since you say it grinds every time, that means the input shaft is still getting torque eventhough your clutch pedal is depressed. This lands the problem squarely at the clutch system. Check hydraulics for leaks at the master or slave. Check the inside of the firewall to see if the master is leaking inside. It may be time to replace them both.
 
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Barnes

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I would agree with Spoulson. Did you ever adjust the clutch pedal? The threaded rod way up under the dash?
 

Not sure if they did that. But is that sometihng I can do my self, I have worked on tons of cars and done a lot of things, From cams to turbos but I have never touched a tranny. The pedal only comes up like a 10th on an ich from the floor before the clutch grabs. I know a ACT 2600 6 puck grabs quick but isnt that a little to soon? My EVO did not grab that soon.
 
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1941Galant

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Aug 21, 2004
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Charles Town, WV
It is something you can do yourself in a few minutes. I usually use a short (I think 14mm) wrench, and a small set of vice grips since that little rod is a pain to turn with regular pliers, or at least my regular crappy pliers. IIRC there is a VFAQ on it, I'll see if I can find it for you.

Edit* Found it, click
 
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Thanx will try that later when I get home.. Printed it.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Well did the rod adjustment 1 full turn and still does it no better than before. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

conquesttsi

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Feb 4, 2009
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Northern Connecticut
I just did this. I was having the exact same issue. When I adjusted the master all the way out I was able to get it to work. I am ordering a new extended slave rod now because I did not shim the pivot ball enough. Did you put in a new pivot ball and fork? Do you have any leaks in the Master/line/ or slave? If you answered yes to the new parts and no to the leak. Did you remember to Shim the Pivot ball? If no, order an extended slave, readjust the master.
 

I will try to adjust the master a little more, but as far as the pivot ball shime, I'm gonna say no. I sure the shop that did it have no clue what that is.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

spoulson

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Worton, MD
This shimming stuff has been discussed in the past to infinity, but I'll abbreviate.

If you're running a new clutch and flywheel, you ain't gonna need it. I even tried it and last time I had the trans off, I removed the shims because there appeared to be wear on the clutch fingers from the release bearing. No adverse affect since.

TRE has some recommendations about shimming, but only limited to cases where aftermarket or machined parts aren't at stock specs. Otherwise, you're only compensating for worn out parts, like your clutch pedal assembly.
 

conquesttsi

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Feb 4, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Northern Connecticut
Good find, In my opinion the link you posted from TRE just backs up what I was saying about adjusting the geometry to get in spec.
 
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ok just found out that the shop did not replace the TOB.... WTF They reused the one that came with the USED CLUTCH.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
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