gents, what would some of you do to strengthen the drivetrain? Is there an upgrade path for this? I'm talking for a daily driver that can take some abuse- not to beat on them per se, but so that you can launch them once in awhile and drive them hard with some peace of mind. I've never actually launched any of these as I'm afraid to break something- irony. Other than the 4bolt rear swap, what would you guys do to cover your bases? My car already has a Shep Stage 2 trans and t/c, but I'm curious to see what some of you have done.
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Strengthening Drivetrain
- Thread starterBpuVR4
- Start date
prove_it
Well-known member
What kind of power are you thinking of running?
the limits of a evo 3 16g. I want to see the full potential of this turbo before i upgrade other than fuel and supporting mods (in the next year). 325-350 at the wheels reliably is my goal. Anything more, I would plan on a full build, but i'd rather have a completed rock solid daily driver than a monster horsepower project that I probably won't even get past 70% on. I'm thinking long term that is.
DynastyLCD
Well-known member
a few suggestions:
- rebuild driveshaft, torque solutions solid driveshaft bushings
- new front axles (parts store are just fine)
- redline heavyweight oil in rear end, and transfer case
- redline MT-90 in the transmission
- lightweight flywheel and newer clutch (your choice, lots of options these days)
- new OEM master and slave cylinders
- clutch pedal rebuild
- new shifter cables
- solid shifter base bushings and cable bushings
- poly rear subframe bushings
that's pretty much it for the driveline as a whole, as you've already addressed the transmission and transfer case!
- rebuild driveshaft, torque solutions solid driveshaft bushings
- new front axles (parts store are just fine)
- redline heavyweight oil in rear end, and transfer case
- redline MT-90 in the transmission
- lightweight flywheel and newer clutch (your choice, lots of options these days)
- new OEM master and slave cylinders
- clutch pedal rebuild
- new shifter cables
- solid shifter base bushings and cable bushings
- poly rear subframe bushings
that's pretty much it for the driveline as a whole, as you've already addressed the transmission and transfer case!
citymunky
Well-known member
clutch pedal rebuild?
DynastyLCD
Well-known member
the clutch pedal assembly is two pieces between the pedal, and the bar that attaches to the clutch master cylinder. there are also bushings inside the housing that wear down over time.
i've been forever stuck in 1g DSM land. do you guys have the same type of issue with the clutch pedal assembly? isn't it pretty much the same design?
i've been forever stuck in 1g DSM land. do you guys have the same type of issue with the clutch pedal assembly? isn't it pretty much the same design?
Pedal assemblies are basically the same, and yes GVR4s have the same issue. I can't shift my VR4 above 5k, or the pedal stays on the floor.
JNZ sells rebuild kits with the brass bushing as well. Here is a link. They sell new shifter cables as well.
JNZ Tuning
"Common issue for high mileage Galant VR-4's is clutch disengagement problems. If you have tried replacing the clutch cylinders and checked for other common engagement problems reach down and pull up on your clutch pedal. If you can lift the pedal up freely the pedal is worn out. The clutch pedal lever rounds off causing slop in the pedal assembly resulting in not enough throw to properly disengage the clutch. This kit will include everything needed to fix that worn out assembly and get your pedal throw back."
JNZ sells rebuild kits with the brass bushing as well. Here is a link. They sell new shifter cables as well.
JNZ Tuning
"Common issue for high mileage Galant VR-4's is clutch disengagement problems. If you have tried replacing the clutch cylinders and checked for other common engagement problems reach down and pull up on your clutch pedal. If you can lift the pedal up freely the pedal is worn out. The clutch pedal lever rounds off causing slop in the pedal assembly resulting in not enough throw to properly disengage the clutch. This kit will include everything needed to fix that worn out assembly and get your pedal throw back."
Last edited:
1qkfwd
Well-known member
After have tons of experience with our drivetrains in the dsms it's not just the drivetrain you need to worry about.
4-bolt swap is a must. I've cut consistent 1.4s with a stock 4-bolt. It's all in how you launch. Tcase same thing.
Higher mileage cars will trash ujoints. Don't buy part house joints they are nowhere near as strong as factory. So only buy factory joints. The tcase recall kits the cheapest for this.
Engine mounts are a must and drivetrain bushings help keep everything in place.
If you plan on keeping an open center diff, make sure with a lot of launching you keep the front and rear tire spin as close as possible. So if suspension unloads to much off the front, the fronts will spin bad and aids in trashing vicious couplers and center diff spider gears.
Once you start upping the power rear axle upgrades are usually next if you've managed to keep tcases together. The stock tcase will go for aways if it doesn't get shock from something else in the drivetrain bein outta wack.
Other things in line will be 4th gear in the trans. The 1st gvr4 gear set is weak. Tcases will eventually need an upgrade. Once you start getting extreme spider gears in the rear diff become an issue. The ring gear in the rear diff pushes away from the pinion. Then it's just whatever doesn't want to hold.
You can get the aluminum drivelines, tcase upgrades, load bearing rear diff covers, and reshim and shot peen spider gears. The main thing is just launching the car properly.
4-bolt swap is a must. I've cut consistent 1.4s with a stock 4-bolt. It's all in how you launch. Tcase same thing.
Higher mileage cars will trash ujoints. Don't buy part house joints they are nowhere near as strong as factory. So only buy factory joints. The tcase recall kits the cheapest for this.
Engine mounts are a must and drivetrain bushings help keep everything in place.
If you plan on keeping an open center diff, make sure with a lot of launching you keep the front and rear tire spin as close as possible. So if suspension unloads to much off the front, the fronts will spin bad and aids in trashing vicious couplers and center diff spider gears.
Once you start upping the power rear axle upgrades are usually next if you've managed to keep tcases together. The stock tcase will go for aways if it doesn't get shock from something else in the drivetrain bein outta wack.
Other things in line will be 4th gear in the trans. The 1st gvr4 gear set is weak. Tcases will eventually need an upgrade. Once you start getting extreme spider gears in the rear diff become an issue. The ring gear in the rear diff pushes away from the pinion. Then it's just whatever doesn't want to hold.
You can get the aluminum drivelines, tcase upgrades, load bearing rear diff covers, and reshim and shot peen spider gears. The main thing is just launching the car properly.
cheekychimp
Well-known member
One piece of advice I was given and you may or may not agree is to actually deliberately leave a weak link. If you really are looking for big numbers or fast times, you probably expect to break parts and just want the best of everything. But it was suggested to me that having something like the transfer case go rather than blowing up something inside the transmission (especially if you have expensive diffs etc) is the better option.
I'm not saying it is right but maybe something to think about.
I'm not saying it is right but maybe something to think about.
Last edited:
4thStroke
Well-known member
Like mentioned before, it's all in how the car is launched.
I had many, many passes with my car with the 16g cranked up at 430awhp. I never did break a drivetrain part at that level with a stock drivetrain, save for the 4 bolt rear end.
When the car made 550+, I broke 3rd, and still have yet to break anything else (back down to 440ishawhp on pump).
Don't insists on side stepping the clutch. Let the clutch slip for a moment and get the car rolling, then let out quickly, you won't shock the drivetrain as bad.
I had many, many passes with my car with the 16g cranked up at 430awhp. I never did break a drivetrain part at that level with a stock drivetrain, save for the 4 bolt rear end.
When the car made 550+, I broke 3rd, and still have yet to break anything else (back down to 440ishawhp on pump).
Don't insists on side stepping the clutch. Let the clutch slip for a moment and get the car rolling, then let out quickly, you won't shock the drivetrain as bad.
