So, I mentioned my power window problem in my build thread, and I guess the entire forum has the same issue (or one similar). I initially used this thread to help me figure out my problem. I'll add some information to hopefully help others as well.
Here's how the circuit for the passenger side front window is supposed to work. I've marked the 12v side of the circuit in red, and the ground in black. Here are the important points to note:
1. The motor changes directions by alternating which motor terminal receives power and ground. The way this is accomplished is by utilizing 2 ground circuits, and one 12v power circuit.
2. The 12v power circuit at the window motor is supplied through the power window relay, which is activated by the ETACS control unit when you turn the key to the ON position. There's an easy way to check to see if these 2 components are working. Basically, if ANY of your windows work at all, these 2 things should be functioning. If NONE of your windows work, start by troubleshooting these 2 components. You can also remove the passenger window switch, and check for battery voltage on the Blue wire with Black tracer (pin 5 on connector D-11, circled in BLUE in the diagram below) with the key on the ON position. This test will let you know if the 12v side of the circuit up to the window switch is good.
3. The ground circuit is doubled. There is one ground circuit for each side of the window switch (up and down). The ground circuit goes from the passenger side switch, all the way back across the dash and through the driver side master switch, where it eventually exits the master switch and grounds to the chassis.
Ground side issues:
1. The red lines in the diagram below represent the ground wires that run under the dash from one switch to another. These 2 wires specifically go from connector D-01, to connector D-40. Connector D-01 is located just to the right of the ECU, and I circled it in GREEN. If you pull the glove box, you'll see a hole that leads into the door. Look in the hole and the connector D-01 will be in it. You may need to fish it out of the hole. Connector D-40 is the large connector for the driver side master switch, and I circled it in ORANGE. Just pull the switch out of the door panel and you'll see the connector.
2. You should be able to test for continuity between these 2 connectors. On each connector, you should see a Red wire with blue tracer and Black wire with blue tracer. Connect your meter to the same wire on both ends of the connectors (((((meaning Red wire with blue tracer on connector D-01 and D-40, and the same for the Black wire with blue tracer on both connectors))))). If it shows open, there's a break in the wire. Make sure you are connecting your meter to the car side of the connector, NOT the switch side.
So, you found a break in one or both of the ground wires?
1. There's only one option I know of if the ground circuit between the switches is broken, and that's pull the dash and figure out where it is. There's no other way I know of to do this other than pull the dash and trace the harness. If you want to repair the break between the driver side master switch, and the passenger side window switch, you'll have to trace the harness, which is no easy task with the dash in the car.
2. Solution 2; you can reroute the ground side of the passenger window switch, giving the motor a path to ground other than through the harness. This will mean the passenger side switch will work, but you will still be unable to control the window from the driver side master switch. This fix is the easy way out if you can deal with the master switch not working (and is way better than using a drill battery to jumper the motor turbohf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif).
How to do the fix:
1. The fix is easy, just make a path to ground for each side of the passenger window circuit. To do this, I would recommend splicing into the car side of the harness, just behind connector D-01. The location is noted above. There are a few bolts that go directly into the dash bar that make a great place for grounding the jumper wires. Solder in the jumper wires to the harness, and ground the other side to the dash bar. Your window should now be working by using the passenger window switch.
I outlined the process for the driver side window switch, but this would work on the 2 rear windows as well. You would just need to find all the related connectors, and perform the same jumper process if any of them had failed ground circuits. Hopefully, this helps you guys out.
