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Strange issues? Please help!

14of2000

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Hey everyone, Thought i would introduce myself.. My name is Mike and i just recently aquired #14/2000, This is definatley not my first gvr4 or dsm. I have had #5/2000 and number 671/2000, unfortunatley I had to sell my baby (671/2000) to buy my house /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif But I finally found another gvr4 and I have been restoring it for a few months now. Onto my strange issues, I have searched and searched but these problems I am having I am at a standstill.

So issue #1, when i turn on my car to the acc position with the key my stereo doesnt come on, my windows wont work, my heater will not come on, and my clock wont work until i actually start the car. Once the car is started everything works BUT once i turn it off my clock is reset and so is my stereo. Do you think this can be my caps going bad?

Issue #2 i got the car and the previous owner told me that it needed a clutch so i pulled the tranny and threw in a brand new act 2100 clutch, and replaced all seals on the t case and transmission. However I can drive the car but it goes to about 5 mph and it acts like the clutch is slipping really bad. And the car pretty much slows itself down to a stop. I had the flywheel resurfaced but i have NO IDEA why its doing this. Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Issue #1 - Someone with "4-door DSM Syndrome" has been in your dash. Sorry. You would be well advised to remove the radio and as much of the center console/lower dash as you feel comfortable and tracing out the factory wire harness. Specifically, follow the radio, HVAC, and clock leads back to where they meet (I suspect they meet), and then look for your hack job. All of that ish will work even if you don't have an ECU in the car as far as I know.

Issue #2 - More troubleshooting for you. Have you bled the clutch? Did you do any pivot ball/pedal adjustment as part of your clutch installation? Did you replace the pressure plate or have the flywheel resurfaced? If the engine winds out freely even when you have the car in-gear and are 100% off the clutch, or quickly slipping the clutch from a dead stop in third doesn't stall the engine, it means your clutch is slipping. Could be not enough pressure from the plate, could be a glazed flywheel. Could be you're going to say a lot more four letter words before you're back on the road.

It's worth it, though. Press on regardless.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
I *believe* the first issue *may* be as simple as a popped alternator fuse.

It will give exactly those symptoms.


Driggsy covered most of the possibilities on the second issue.

... might also be stripped t-case splines with a side of weak viscous coupler, so be sure to check that before you tear the rest of it all apart.


Good luck!

This car will give you excellent year round service up where you live! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Toybreaker has a valid point. If the center diff/tcase is shot, the car will act as if the clutch is slipping, but it should still move halfway decently, only be fWD instead of AWD. You should be able to tell by placeing the car on jackstands and letting it run in gear. Mark your tires and let wheels turn with it at idle. They should turn at the same rate, or very very close to the same rate. That should tell you the condition of your center diff/tcase.

I've also had the same electrical issues in the past on a DSM I owned, turned out to be a bad ACCY fuse from when I installed my stereo(shorted the stereo memory or constant to ground, popped the fuse). Start by checking your fuses, then pull the radio out and make sure all of the wires are at least taped/secured away from all of the brackets and so-on. That should help you narrow down the cause. Im willing to bet you have a short in the radio harness somewhere that caused the fuse to pop, especialy since all of the items you described are on the same power distribution circuit(at least they are on DSMs). It might be a good idea to pull the sheathing back some around the harness too, if you cant find any particular place where the wiring is hacked or bare/open.

Hope that helps!

-Jake
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting toybreaker:



Driggsy covered most of the possibilities on the second issue.

... might also be stripped t-case splines with a side of weak viscous coupler, so be sure to check that before you tear the rest of it all apart.






Could also be a broken or disconnected axle somewhere. I suggest giving both rear axles a good shaking and see if either of them move at all. Also check both front axles.
 

14of2000

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Awesome! Thanks guys ill be working on it all day tomorrow and the next day, this at least gives me something to look for. I went and bought an alt fuseable link today and I will try putting that in when I get home. I'm also going to take some pictures of the underside of it today, it came from Minneapolis so it's kinda rusty so I would also like to see what you guys think as far as it goes for keeping it or parting it which is the LAST thing I want to do. Thanks again to all the feedback of things to check!
 

14of2000

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
So update time, I figured everything out with it feeling like the clutch was slipping. It ended up being a combo of stripped splines on the tranny to t case, so I ended up buying a freshly rebuilt t case and tranny combo for 450 shipped (not too bad) and my rear calipers were pretty much rusted shut. So I then bought some new oem mitsu calipers and e brake cables and replaced all of it.

So now I have a new issue, I have a 14b rebuilt with a 20g wheel and a stock 14b housing. I am running 450cc 2g black top injectors and a stock 1g maf with the lower honeycombs removed. So with that in mind I am running off of the wastegate. But my car is running extremely lean from the looks of the plugs, and the fact my exhaust manifold was red hot the other day. But the plugs are pure white, so I looked at them a little closer with a magnifying glass and i didn't see any signs of detonation on the plug itself. I only have a narrowband af gauge (useless I know) but this restoration has kinda zapped my funds at the moment.

I did a boost leak test at 15 psi and the only thing I could hear leaking is something under the intake manifold, so what I'm thinking is my intake manifold gasket might need to be replaced because its sucking in air pretty much directly into the combustion chamber. Am I wrong in thinking this would cause the car to run lean?
 

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
A bad manifold gasket leak would make chamber mixture rich under boost (metered air leaking out) and lean in vacuum state(i.e., idle).
 
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