The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Starter problem or not?

Had another issue last night with the car not starting after stopping for coffee. So here are the symptoms
car has fuel pressure(verified with gauge on afpr and at fuel rail) car has battery power and all systems
seem to be functional the fuel pump turns on however the car wont even click over. This pointed me to the
starter. After several attempts at a jump start it still will start.Didn't jump timing either because I drove
the car home under full power after a quick push start. My question is this does it sound like its the
starter, the starter relay under the dash or a clutch switch issue? I have the 2 step hooked with the clutch
still needing to be depressed before starting(friend installed with diode setup)and secondly is there anyway to
the starter relay and where can I find the procedure for the R&R for the starter a search of +starter+removal came
up with nothing thanks again(I guess I should get a Chilton or some kind of service manual soon)thanks.
Dunstan
 

If i were in your position i would try this. Its a little unorthodox, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif but I've done it many times and its perfectly fine:

1. Unplug the "signal wire" from the starter. (the wire that comes from your ignition switch in the dash)
2. Get a wire with an aligator clip or something similar on the end, and clip it to the tab on the starter
3. Touch the other end of that wire to the positive battery terminal

If the starter turns, then you know its something between the key and the starter. If it doesn't then you know the starter is bad.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I have seen 3 GVR4s that the main battery feed to the starter (large 4ga cable) is bad. Corrosion forms inside the casing and will cause a no-crank, just click condition.

To set your mind at ease, get a $10 30" 2ga cable from Autozone and run it along with the stock cable.
 

Ok guys I will try both methods with the alligator clip and the 2ga wire.....
I will let you guys know how it turns out. So where can I find a resource for
removal and re installation of the starter just in case its bad I don't have a
service manual.....
 
Last edited by a moderator:

So to close this issue I removed the starter and took it down to my local auto parts store where it was tested and found to be DOA.So I bought one instead of waiting for my friend to rebuild the OEM one because I need the car running asap other car is going into the body shop. Got replacement starter in and the bolts are just turning wtf. Took starter back out and looked at holes on the corner of each ears/bracket and lo and behold there are no threads in the holes wtf. So I took it back to the store mad as hell he found another one few miles away. He wanted me to wait 1/2 hour so I said screw it I will drive there to get just tell them to hold it instead of sending it with the driver. So I drove to the store only to find out that the driver took the freaking starter so I had to wait for her to bring it back. All of this after working in 90 degree weather needless to say I am pissed. I took my old starter back(getting it fixed why I like original stuff and I will have a spare) got the defective one swapped which was the wrong one anyway and went home with my fingers crossed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif So got the second unit in again bolted right up and she fired up right away /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Put everything back together I had taken the panel down to access the starter relay etc broke the little plastic clip under the dash but wth my baby was running again. Washed both cars and then went inside the house. Lesson learned double check parts when buying from retards and why the hell did Mitsubishi make that damn starter so hard to access /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Just in case I forget thanks to everyone that responded and or tried to help next issue get this damn ac fan working lol......
 

Gotta love the local parts store employees.... sometimes i wonder if being a complete idiot is a requirement to work at those places. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

I finally found a store around me with some decent employees.

In any regard, glad the car is fixed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

turbophein

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
i am having the same issue, except i pulled my starter and it tested fine...

when i turn the key, i hear a couple of clicks, but the starter won't engage. it fires right up when pop started. i am going to check the power wire like mentioned above...
 

Well if you know the starter is good, and if you have a Digital Multi Meter its actually easier.

I would check the power supply to the starter and be sure its giving 12V (should be at 12 all the time), and then if that checks out test that signal wire from the started solenoid and it should give you 12 V when you turn the key over. If either of those are low then you have found your problem. If not its probably a grounding issue.
 

b00st33d

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
239
Location
Central, CA
Quoting 92Galant926:
If i were in your position i would try this. Its a little unorthodox, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif but I've done it many times and its perfectly fine:

1. Unplug the "signal wire" from the starter. (the wire that comes from your ignition switch in the dash)
2. Get a wire with an aligator clip or something similar on the end, and clip it to the tab on the starter
3. Touch the other end of that wire to the positive battery terminal

If the starter turns, then you know its something between the key and the starter. If it doesn't then you know the starter is bad.



When you say "clip it to the tab on the starter, does that mean that you are connecting it to the spade connector from the starter, right? Do you happen to have a picture of the "signal wire" that needs to be unplugged? thanks
 

Im not 100% sure what you mean by the "spade connector", and i dont currently have a picture..... let me try to explain and i can get a pic for you once I'm off work if I dont make any sense.

The starter solenoid should have 3 wires total bolted to it. One is the incoming power wire (comes from the Fuse Box under the hood), one is the outgoing power wire (goes to the starter motor), and the other one is the signal wire im talking about. Both the input and output power wires should be large cables similar to the size of a battery cable. The signal wire you are looking for is a smaller wire, maybe 16 gauge or so.... It should just unplug if you pull on it. The other 2 wires are actually bolted on.

Let me know if that helps.
 

yep, there you are. They are talking about a pretty similar thing to what i was. The picture of that connector is in the line between your starter solenoid under the dash and the starter. I think they said the signal wire is black and yellow...
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top