Shrinking coil springs by heat, not cutting them?

[Terry Posten]

Not for the GVR4 but the Ralliart.

I was wondering what issues I would have if I used a torch to make the coil springs shorter, causing a lower ride height?

I realize that they may not be exactly level side-to-side but I should be able to get them close.

I may replace them later once more parts become available but for now would it hurt the "rebound/handling" characteristics too much?

My RA is WAY to high.

 

[ktmrider]

Played with this on the motorcycles using a compression gauge.
If it's a single rate spring ( or called straight rate ) it will compress above/below the heated area instead of bottom up. Effectively turns it into two separate, same rate springs.
We also saw failures under extreme use due to the temper of the spring metal changing ( made it brittle or less "springy" ).
Overall not a great thing to do...

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

You would be better off cutting a ring off the spring, The heat will cause uneven ride height and cause premature tire wear etc.

Check on evom and see if these guys are selling stock set s for dirt cheap, There is a real good R/A section there.

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

Also there 2 types of basic lowering springs, Progressively wound coils and shorter than stock, If you cut them down you effectivly just made a "shorter than stock" style lowering spring.

Heating will cause the spring to lose its tension, Be sure to cut about 1 inch off the bump stops otherwise it will bottom out and cause a real loud thud.

 

[Barnes]

This sounds like a tremendously bad idea. I don't know exactly how car springs are manufactured, but you run the risk of screwing around with the properties in a way that could cause the spring to break or fail.

 

[Brianawd]

That is a bad bad idea.

 

[Terry Posten]

I know it is a bad idea. Just wanted to hear it from others.

I wont be doing much for a while. I will just wait until more options come out.

Thanks.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Heating is about the worst thing you can do - spring steel is formed while soft (annealed), then heated to very high temperature and quenched, which makes it very hard and strong, but brittle. It is then heat treated, which reduces the strength slightly, but makes it less brittle. By heating it, you are permanently softening and lowering the strength of the steel to the point where the weight of the car can deform the metal. The metal will continue to bend anytime the spring gets compressed, and it will eventually fail.

What you are basically doing is returning the spring to the "annealed" state, which basically means you've turned it into scrap.

Cutting a coil is a much better method - just make sure to cut quickly and keep a bucket of water handy to minimize the heat spread after you cut.

 

[fivestardsm]

Quoting BarnesMobile:
This sounds like a tremendously bad idea. I don't know exactly how car springs are manufactured, but you run the risk of screwing around with the properties in a way that could cause the spring to break or fail.




Here are a couple of videos to clear it up for you.


Eibach

Pedders

Lesjofors

 

[mikus]

both methods are common in my area, where the hoopty lowrider style never really went away (it just went to newer smaller cars that shouldn't look like THAT)

Heating is easiest and works, but I wouldn't heat on anything you really care about or are going to drive hard. Heating is for $800 Chevy Blazers you'll drive for a few months with a drop, tint and some random rims, and then sell for a fair profit.

Cutting is better, you're putting the risk on the shock not the spring. You can blow out AGX's or such pretty quick this way though. Again, driving style has a big impact.

 

[Barnes]

Also remember that cutting coils changes the spring rate. I kinda regret doin it to my stock TEL springs on the g-ride. It works, but it is really a ghetto method. Puts entirely too much stress on one part of the spring perch IMO.

 

[Hertz]

What about those compression shim deals? I think we found a pair of springs with those on them before. Basically clamped down two turns of the spring, effectively making it stiffer and probably lowering it a few tenths.

They could be easily removed if you're taking it in to the dealership or such.

 

But it still changes the spring rate.

When you heat, compress, or cut, the linear rate of the spring is now changed.

Do this on all 4-corners, and you have successfully mis-matched all of the spring rates, making the car difficult, and possibly dangerous to drive.

Spring replacements with less height are available fairly cheap. And they all match!

For the love of god, do not heat, or cut your springs.

 

[91GSR]

my brother cut his springs on a prelude he used to have. not only did the ride comfort suffer, his shocks got TORCHED. having shorter springs on stock shocks is a no go. plus there is never a guarantee that you are cutting them *exactly* the same. also, almost all springs i have ever seen have a flat top/bottom and the coils are closer together at the top/bottom so as to spread the load of the spring over an area. if u cut it then you have one point putting more pressure on the mount then the rest of the spring, which will cause more problems.

heating the springs has been covered. it can cause the springs to snap, which would be worse than anything you could imagine.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Quoting Terry Posten:
I know it is a bad idea. Just wanted to hear it from others.

I wont be doing much for a while. I will just wait until more options come out.

Thanks.




/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif RIGHT

 

[slugsgomoo]

once a dsm'er, always a dsm'er.

hack modding a new car, yep, we do that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif