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Rusted rear brake lines

OK I know that this question has been asked before but I can't find the answer I really want to hear.
I need to replace the hard lines (fuel and brake) to the rear of the Galant. I was going to bend my own lines and would like to know if I need to drop the subframe. Just trying to get an idea for the amount work.
I know a pre-bent line wont make it by the subframe but how about a roll of brake line?
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Not sure you will HAVE to drop the rear crossmember, as you may be able to snake around it. For the fuel lines you will definitely have to go over it. Not sure on the brake lines without looking.

Roll of line would be great if you are adept with a flaring tool.
 

boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I'm not sure on the rears either, but I'm sure you can get then in there without dropping.

The front is a whole nother story. The front subframe has to come off or at least down some to get the lines to the porportioning valve, that I know for sure.
 

I wasn't worried about the rear. So the front subframe has to be dropped. What else has to be removed to drop the subframe?
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Another guy in Rochester? I just dropped my front subframe a few days ago. You need to remove the transfer case, downpipe, tie rod ends, rear engine mount, lower control arms, sway bar, and disconnect the steering pinion from the column.
 

Man that sucks. I hate Salt.
Maybe I can run the lines using some other routing.
Seems like a lot of work just to replace the brake lines.
 

boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Just do it right. Brakes are not the place to half ass something.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Go through everything while you're in there. Lots of bushings to replace, and make sure your P/S rack is good. I'm tearing #108 down just to rustproof it with some por15 since it's the new year-round daily. You're gonna need some time to do this though.
 

I am sure I will do it right. I was just hoping for a less involved solution.
I seen that some people have lowered the subframe down enough to get in there, Hopefully that is what I will be able to do. The car has been down for almost a year now, and I just want to drive it before it finishes rusting away.
 
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