The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Rust Repair Advice

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
I'm no stranger to rust repair. I dealt with some on 1837 to a small degree, as well as various other cars I've owned over the years. I took my time and did the job right on 1837, since I wanted the car perfect. However, I feel like that's out of the question for 820. The car will need some extensive fabrication and bodywork to return it back to factory condition...And honestly, I'm just not up for all that.

820 is in pretty good shape overall, but the front rockers just behind the front wheel wells are in sad ass shape. I believe the first step in any rust repair is removing ALL the old rusty and rotted metal. In order to do that on 820, I had to remove a substantial amount of metal. The little wings that support the very front bolt on the bottom of the fender were completely rotted out. I had to cut them off completely. In addition, I had to remove about a 2" oval area on the driver side rocker panel.

First, I want to say my #1 goal here is to simply stop the car from rusting anymore. I don't really care about making everything look perfect, or restoring it back to factory. The metal is structurally intact, so I don't have any concerns there. This car is going to get driven, so as long as it serves that purpose safely my goals are met.

Here's my question; what's the issue with leaving the car as is? At this point, what's the harm in just sealing up the metal really well and putting the car back together? I can securely attach the fenders back on the car without the little wings I cut off. For the hole, I can actually use it to seal both side of the rocker panel. I can apply Rust Bullet to the inside and outside of the rocker panel through the hole. I was thinking after I sealed the metal, I could place a piece of auto body repair tape over the hole just to keep debris and stuff out. Again, both areas are structurally sound in their current condition.

I don't want this to come across as trying to half-ass the job, but I just don't see the point in committing the time and resources on this project given my goals for the car. Not only that, but I don't have the proper tools to fabricate new body panels and weld them in properly. The car is going to stay nearly stock, and get daily driven for the most part. I'm not too worried about the car rusting again after I seal the metal. The whole reason it rusted in the first place is because nobody bothered to clean 20 years worth of sh*t out from behind the fender. That won't be an issue anymore as long as I own the car.

So guys, the pictures are below. Comments, suggestions, advice? Thanks.



Here's the driver side before:
WP_002263.jpg




Here's the same side after I removed the wing, cut the small rotted section out, and removed the majority of the surface rust:
WP_002284.jpg



Inside of the rocker panel is clean. The sealer from the factory is still in great shape.
WP_002288.jpg

WP_002285.jpg

WP_002289.jpg

WP_002290.jpg




Here's the passenger side.
WP_002275.jpg




Again, I had to remove the wing. Overall, this side was much better than the driver side though.
WP_002291.jpg

WP_002292.jpg




Even the fenders took a beating.
WP_002293.jpg
 
Last edited:

gvr4230

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
99
Location
Madison, Wisconsin
I have similar issues with 230. I seem to be having issues finding a drivers side fender. Rust never sleeps!
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Despite how the pictures look (before pics), the fenders cleaned up fairly well. Replacing the fenders would be one thing. Fabricating body panels and welding them in is another...
 

89Patches

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
723
Location
Ontario Canada
IMHO that rust isn't really anything to worry about. If you don't want to any metal work (Which you really don't need to) the best way would be to sand blast or clean the rusted area well and use a rust converter/inhibitor then cover with fiber glass. Once that's done use rustbullet or POR15 to seal it up, also it would be a really good idea to oil the f*** out of the inside of the rockers.

Don't get to caught up in it too much. Fix it to the best of your ability and call it a day! And just enjoy the car for what it is!


Also I'll gladly trade your rust problem for #19's rust problems /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
I would at least consider sealing that hole to keep more water or moisture-accumulating debris from getting inside the rocker. Structurally I think it is ok as is. Paint it, seal it, whatever, and save it for another day. If you keep the debris out of there,it won't get worse.
 

89Mirageman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
^Agreed, patch the hole, seal it all up and toss it back together.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Good advice for someone living in Texas, but in the salt belt guys gotta be more protective.
 

89Mirageman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
It was sealed up from the factory and all bare metal was protected and it still rusted. Honestly, what else can he do about it?
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
You gotta clean it out often. Salt belt states require more through cleanings. Like a pressure washer "flush" at all exterior seems and underbody washes every couple weeks.

Can't let crap sit on panels, gotta wash wash wash. In Texas, this is not much of a concern.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
I don't think salt was really an issue here. Without a doubt, the vast amount of crap stuck in the fender caused the rust. Salt may have compounded the issue if the car was driven in it, bit I'm not even sure if that's the case. Before I picked it up, it had been sitting for 6 years in a garage.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate the responses.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Humidity can cause rust on areas with rubbed through paint. Usually surface rust, but could pit a long time down the road.

POR15 FTW.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
This issue on these cars is almost completely simply moisture related. It is like a car being in contact with the ground for a long period of time. The moisture laden debris in there eventually compromises the minimal ecoating on those panels (they would not have exterior paint protection on them) and corrosion starts. with or without salt.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top