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Roll Centre Adjusters
- Thread starterH05TYL
- Start date
curtis
Well-known member
Only way I would know to do it is to lower both the front lower arm mounting points because on a strut setup without a double wish bone the roll center is like 30 percent down from centerline. But as for adjustable I don't have a clue, that's alot of force pushing on those parts.
Someone posted about the anti dive deals other day which effects the rear mount of the front arms but this would do both. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif It could actually help but Need to talk to some road track types for this.
Someone posted about the anti dive deals other day which effects the rear mount of the front arms but this would do both. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif It could actually help but Need to talk to some road track types for this.
prove_it
Well-known member
Yea I doubt you'll find adjustable. There is way more force there than a bolt can handle.
belize1334
Well-known member
I don't think he wants an adjustable piece but rather a piece that is taller than factory to affect an adjustment of the control arm position relative to the hub. There was a thread on this a while back but I don't remember anybody pointing out an existing product. Best bet (other than custom control arms)...find one for a different vehicle that has the same diameter and retrofit it?
Hertz
Staff member
3000GT parts perhaps?
prove_it
Well-known member
Do you have to have special licensing to sell custom control arms? I know with brake lines you technically do? Like an ANSI rating or similar?
Quoting belize1334:
I don't think he wants an adjustable piece but rather a piece that is taller than factory to affect an adjustment of the control arm position relative to the hub. There was a thread on this a while back but I don't remember anybody pointing out an existing product. Best bet (other than custom control arms)...find one for a different vehicle that has the same diameter and retrofit it?
Yeah, exactly. They're commonly referred to as RCA's even though they aren't actually adjustable.
I was hoping someone would've explored this already and would say: "so and so makes them for dsm's" or "I've used ones for an xyz"
Once I find something suitable I'll let you know in case anyone else wants decent suspension geometry and low ride height.
I don't think he wants an adjustable piece but rather a piece that is taller than factory to affect an adjustment of the control arm position relative to the hub. There was a thread on this a while back but I don't remember anybody pointing out an existing product. Best bet (other than custom control arms)...find one for a different vehicle that has the same diameter and retrofit it?
Yeah, exactly. They're commonly referred to as RCA's even though they aren't actually adjustable.
I was hoping someone would've explored this already and would say: "so and so makes them for dsm's" or "I've used ones for an xyz"
Once I find something suitable I'll let you know in case anyone else wants decent suspension geometry and low ride height.
I remember looking around for some when I first joined up; I believe Megan Racing or Whitelne have some for the Evo-8.
Edit: Whitline Evo RCAs
Edit: Whitline Evo RCAs
Last edited by a moderator:
Dialcaliper
Well-known member
The Evo 8 uses a different style balljoint than ours (clamped straight shank instead of tapered seat). What you're looking for is a set of balljoints with a longer shank than the stock ones. The 3000GT control arms, balljoints and hubs use identical mounting geometry to ours - the hubs are just beefier, and the wheel is spaced farther out.
Apparently the S13 240 SX (89-94) uses balljoints with the same taper and thread as ours. I believe the way it mounts to the control arm is different, but either modifications or tubular control arms could be made to adapt to them. Both Megan Racing and Moonface make extended balljoints for the S13
In order to move the roll center, the actual pivot point of the balljoint must be moved downward relative to the wheel hub. The suspension geometry is based on a straight line between the control arm bushing and the balljoint pivot. Reshaping the control arms with the intent of moving the balljoint mounting location won't have any effect.
One other issue with moving the roll-center is that the steering tie-rod ends will no longer be in the right position relative to the balljoint, and you may introduce some bump-steer issues. Ideally, they should be modified as well.
Alternately, you could *try* contacting Moog or another balljoint manufacturer directly and see if a compatible balljoint exists that will do what you want, but it won't be a simple task since all of the public catalogs are referenced by vehicle and model number that has nothing to do with geometry.
Apparently the S13 240 SX (89-94) uses balljoints with the same taper and thread as ours. I believe the way it mounts to the control arm is different, but either modifications or tubular control arms could be made to adapt to them. Both Megan Racing and Moonface make extended balljoints for the S13
In order to move the roll center, the actual pivot point of the balljoint must be moved downward relative to the wheel hub. The suspension geometry is based on a straight line between the control arm bushing and the balljoint pivot. Reshaping the control arms with the intent of moving the balljoint mounting location won't have any effect.
One other issue with moving the roll-center is that the steering tie-rod ends will no longer be in the right position relative to the balljoint, and you may introduce some bump-steer issues. Ideally, they should be modified as well.
Alternately, you could *try* contacting Moog or another balljoint manufacturer directly and see if a compatible balljoint exists that will do what you want, but it won't be a simple task since all of the public catalogs are referenced by vehicle and model number that has nothing to do with geometry.
Last edited:
Quote:
The Evo 8 uses a different style balljoint than ours (clamped straight shank instead of tapered seat). What you're looking for is a set of balljoints with a longer shank than the stock ones. The 3000GT control arms, balljoints and hubs use identical mounting geometry to ours - the hubs are just beefier, and the wheel is spaced farther out.
Apparently the S13 240 SX (89-94) uses balljoints with the same taper and thread as ours. I believe the way it mounts to the control arm is different, but either modifications or tubular control arms could be made to adapt to them. Both Megan Racing and Moonface make extended balljoints for the S13
In order to move the roll center, the actual pivot point of the balljoint must be moved downward relative to the wheel hub. The suspension geometry is based on a straight line between the control arm bushing and the balljoint pivot. Reshaping the control arms with the intent of moving the balljoint mounting location won't have any effect.
One other issue with moving the roll-center is that the steering tie-rod ends will no longer be in the right position relative to the balljoint, and you may introduce some bump-steer issues. Ideally, they should be modified as well.
Alternately, you could *try* contacting Moog or another balljoint manufacturer directly and see if a compatible balljoint exists that will do what you want, but it won't be a simple task since all of the public catalogs are referenced by vehicle and model number that has nothing to do with geometry.
That was very helpful, thank you.
I'm aware that this will require different steering tie-rod end's - this is infact what started me looking into RCA's, as I'm looking for more tie-rod to chassis clearance by bringing the tie-rod angle closer to stock.
The Evo 8 uses a different style balljoint than ours (clamped straight shank instead of tapered seat). What you're looking for is a set of balljoints with a longer shank than the stock ones. The 3000GT control arms, balljoints and hubs use identical mounting geometry to ours - the hubs are just beefier, and the wheel is spaced farther out.
Apparently the S13 240 SX (89-94) uses balljoints with the same taper and thread as ours. I believe the way it mounts to the control arm is different, but either modifications or tubular control arms could be made to adapt to them. Both Megan Racing and Moonface make extended balljoints for the S13
In order to move the roll center, the actual pivot point of the balljoint must be moved downward relative to the wheel hub. The suspension geometry is based on a straight line between the control arm bushing and the balljoint pivot. Reshaping the control arms with the intent of moving the balljoint mounting location won't have any effect.
One other issue with moving the roll-center is that the steering tie-rod ends will no longer be in the right position relative to the balljoint, and you may introduce some bump-steer issues. Ideally, they should be modified as well.
Alternately, you could *try* contacting Moog or another balljoint manufacturer directly and see if a compatible balljoint exists that will do what you want, but it won't be a simple task since all of the public catalogs are referenced by vehicle and model number that has nothing to do with geometry.
That was very helpful, thank you.
I'm aware that this will require different steering tie-rod end's - this is infact what started me looking into RCA's, as I'm looking for more tie-rod to chassis clearance by bringing the tie-rod angle closer to stock.
CarRacer
Well-known member
If you want to change your tie rod angle you could locate a set of base model spindles. Here's a thread with pics showing the difference.
Spindle comparision.
Spindle comparision.
