Recipe for 11-sec capable Galant

Ash, that still makes no sense, shouldn't nate be the one who has an excuse for having a big right arm, if he's the only one not married?

 

Drew, I think it was a crack at wives drying up the sex supply once the ring is on their finger.

 

[Nate]

Yes, a bone stock 1G 6 bolt engine can fairly easily get you into the 11s, no need for crazy motor work. It'll do it with the stock cams in it too, as long as they're 5-spd cams. If you want to upgrade the cams, that'll definitely help the midrange and top end, but it'll hurt your idling characteristics. When I first ran 11s, the engine that was in my car probably had about 90K miles on it. I would say my car was making at most around 400hp when I first ran 11s, though I never dyno'd it to find out. The first car that I had that I dyno'd was the Colt, which had a setup very similar to the Galant's setup when it ran 11s, but it had a Frank 3 turbo on it versus the 20G that was on the Galant, and the Colt was using a side to side Spearco IC like the Buschur core instead of the top to bottom Spearco that I had been using on the Galant. I actually think that the 2-221 Spearco (top to bottom) flows more air than the 2-178 (side to side) Spearco, but it just looked like crap in the front of a Galant, so I switched. Having a 20G turbo will definitely help run 11s, although Doug Thomas was able to go 12.1 on a 16G in his Galant. The stock engine will hold a lot more boost than you think. That Colt Turbo that I had was using a 70K mile JDM engine in it when I dyno'd it, and it held 27psi of boost on the dyno to put out 383hp at the wheels. True, the 20G will help more if you're flowing more than 20psi, but it can be set up to be a GREAT street turbo with the right combination of mods; those mods being a nice intercooler, good piping, a nice big exhaust, bigger injectors, and a fuel computer to control those bigger injectors. The single biggest help to getting any turbo car to run fast is to spend time pressure checking the intercooler piping system to find and fix leaks. I do it like this: block off the inlet of the turbo, and then find a vacuum line that comes out of the intercooler system somewhere and I run compressed air through it to pressurize it. Just listen for the familiar "pssssss" and follow it to wherever is leaking. It works, trust me. I just realized that this is getting really long, so yes, I do think a stock GVR4 motor is strong enough to run 11s without being built. Many people have proved that other than me, so I'm definitely not a fluke.

 

[Ian M]

The stock bottom end is very strong. As an example (from personal experience),a freind of mine has a talon with over 140,000 miles bottom end that has run 11.60@123,and has been in that form (until this weekend..)for the past 3 years or so,he's got over 300 passes and lots of street abuse. Its never even had the valvecover off,its got (had) the balance shafts in it still. He recently decided he wanted to go faster (and kinda see how much abuse it will take),so he installed a a NOS fogger setup,jetted to a 75 shot. On 27psi with the t3/t4 and with nitrous,it withstood a bunch more abuse (including spanking another freinds sportbike on the freeway...

). This weekend he decided to run it at the track. He left on the bottle,spun all the way thru second hitting the rev limiter (BIG TIME NO NO on nitrous!!!!)went to third and hit the rev limiter again...and BOOM...It blew the entire back of the block out,dumping oil and coolant out,and the track guys litterally had to sweep up the internals of the motor.It even tore the starter off,part of the stuff the track guys brought back to him was the starter armature. It sucks it couldnt have held together for at least one pass,he was running down the tubbed Camaro he was racing that ran 11.0. The motor probably would still be running now had he not have made the mistake of spraying while on the revlimiter.It amazes me how long it lasted still...[This message has been edited by Ian M (edited 09-01-2002).][This message has been edited by Ian M (edited 09-01-2002).]

 

[number3]

Thanks Ash.
Back when Nate ran his high 11 on a 20G and I ran my 12.5 on a high mileage unmodified 16G we didn't know about the pressure testing thing. I sometimes wish we or alteast me) could go back to those days with the setups we had and the knowledge we have today. I am sure deep 11s could have been had by Nate and high 11s for me.That is what is so frustrating to me. When we suggest things that we only wish we would have known then and people blow the suggestions off. They see a big turbo or whatever and they want that. If they would just fix the boost leaks or upgrade the Fuel Pump or whatever... they would be 100 times happier.Oh well. I guess I am just getting old. I just turn 30 on the 30th. So I guess I am.Harry

 

Thanks guys, ever since I started to even THINK about modding, trying to wad thru the bullshit has just about become a full time job!! Now I just have find some one who has a compressor I can borrow for an afternoon.Mike.

 

I think I'll get off my ass & try a pressure test too.

 

[bazeng]

i have almost all these and can only manage a 13.4@103mph with a 1.8 60ft

the only thing i dont have is -------
Healthy motor (mine has done 250,000 kms.. still running though!!.. lots of blow by)

but have------------
3" exhaust
Ported exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and O2 housing
23G turbo w/7cm housing
walbro 255 pump
780cc injectors
wolf electronic boost control
wolf 3d engine management
3 bolt rear end
good clutch, either ACT or Centerforce
good intercooler and piping
Some sort of straighter air intake plumbing to the turbo
Tranny that shifts well (crunchy)

Money to spend on entrance fees to test the above mods.

anyways.. im amazed how some people have all the luck with the vr4's.. 12's on a measly 14b or 16g.
im hoping with my next rebuild i will dip into 12's..

any idea if the stock vr4 rods (shot peened) will handle 25psi on the 23g????...

as for the intercooler pressure test.. i've put it off for so long.. i know for a fact that there is a leak somewhere!!!

 

Mine held 30lbs on a 20g.

 

same here... 1g rods are beeeeeeefy. Only reason i'm replacing them in the stroker is because i'm spraying big and eagles are cheap

 

VERY interesting thread you started, Nate. I know I feel a lot better about 'settling' for 550s now. If I can get deep into the 12s with a b16G I'll be happy (for now

)

Have you considered a GM MAF and MAFT? It would allow you to convert back to maf but give you lots of flexability in locating the MAF including, of course, keeping your external BOV.

About driver skill...Ken is certainly right about autocrossers. You reach a point where you just aren't going to improve at a very satisfying rate. Drag is a little different. Practice DOES make a big difference for all but the truly uncoordinated. You can get to a point where you can nail lights on a sportsman tree to in under six tenths every time and get your et down to within a couple tenths of the car's limits. Some folks get there a lot quicker than others and some reach closer to perfection but the differences aren't nearly as big between the best and the average practiced drivers in drag as they are in autocross, road racing, etc.

 

[bazeng]

eagles are very cheap!!!
$720.00AU over here in oz.. with ARP2000 bolts

but for only $100.00AU i can get my vr4 rods shot peened!!!.. and i already have ARP ROD BOLTS..

what should i do?? 600 bux more and get a lil more insurance.. or save that 600 and get something else with that money??

how did 30psi on the 20g go??.. what fuel? is that out of its efficiency range??..
thanks

 

30 psi on 20g was good. Definitely getting out of it's efficency range. Fuel was 110 Leaded.

If you need eagle rods they are $360 US. I'll ship them to you for whatever it costs, just send me the money and i'll buy and ship for you.

 

[bazeng]

i think it would probably work out the same after shipping (mayeb a tiny bit cheaper)

thanks for the offer anyway..
but it would be more trouble than its worth (time/cheque clearing times etc etc)

what would be the best cam to suite the 23g tdo5/6???

im looking at 272 specs.. but was told that 260 specs would be best..