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Practical upgrades (keepin it real) for power

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Thanks again for the input.

The ECMLink is certainly a costly little bugger (What $450+ on FleaBay? Yikes) Am I missing a less expensive option?

Shame about the O2 requirement as I just replaced the OEM one last month (grrrrr). Can a WBO2 mount up to the OEM ECU without issues, or is this something after the ECMLink?
Whats the preferred WB02 to buy (I spotted a few threads talking about the Bosch #17018) and is there re-wiring needed?

Source for the 560s?
Whats the flow rate and pressure needed for a replacement pump (part numbers for review?)

Thanks again for all the excellent info!
I've been having fun with 1212, and am kinda stunned at the number of people on the street that actually know what she is! I'm use to comments and thumbs up over my Jag, but the response has been similar when the younger crowd (remember, I'm old) sees 1212!

Cool!
V
 

Ian M

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2002
Messages
2,348
Location
Martinsburg,WV
50 hp isn't a problem at all. My car ran 12.90s at 105 with a super simple old school setup. "3 exhaust,ported 14b and 2g exhaust manifold,DP,"2 1/4 IC pipes with a Star quest (not ideal anymore),TT RX7 fuel pump,stock 1g MAF pipe,Grainger valve boost controller,stock MAF,450s etc etc. I think it would have been quicker if I'd had more track time instead of making two passes and saying "Ok,that's what it runs!" in fear of breaking my sole transportation.

After that,I did a "3 MAS pipe with the 2g MAS,550s,and an AFC (and finally a pocketlogger) and it ran really strong seat of the pants but I never made it back to the track.

I ran the hell out of the thing for years,and was a reliable DD.This was before everyone had even pocketloggers (I didnt for years),its been a while since I've played with these cars-interesting contrast the simple setups years ago to nowadays,where everyone suggests going to ECMLINK right off.
 
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transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Quoting Vince:
Thanks again for the input.

The ECMLink is certainly a costly little bugger (What $450+ on FleaBay? Yikes) Am I missing a less expensive option?

Shame about the O2 requirement as I just replaced the OEM one last month (grrrrr). Can a WBO2 mount up to the OEM ECU without issues, or is this something after the ECMLink?
Whats the preferred WB02 to buy (I spotted a few threads talking about the Bosch #17018) and is there re-wiring needed?

Source for the 560s?
Whats the flow rate and pressure needed for a replacement pump (part numbers for review?)

Thanks again for all the excellent info!
I've been having fun with 1212, and am kinda stunned at the number of people on the street that actually know what she is! I'm use to comments and thumbs up over my Jag, but the response has been similar when the younger crowd (remember, I'm old) sees 1212!

Cool!
V




the first thing you should get is LINK and no there is no cheap way to buy it. its a full tuning solution that allows you to change everything. its 100% worth it and really the first upgrade you should do after all regular maintenance has been addressed on the vehicle.

as far as the wideband and the new oem one you bought, leave the new one in place, get an innovate MTX or LC-2 and have a shop weld in the bung for it a few inches down from where the stock sensor is and run both narrow and wideband sensors. as for hooking into link you need to find an unused spot in the ecu.(usually the egr input)

i have some RC 550cc injectors and a AEM 320 LPH fuel pump i am looking to sell. PM me if you want them.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Quoting Ian M:
50 hp isn't a problem at all. My car ran 12.90s at 105 with a super simple old school setup. "3 exhaust,ported 14b and 2g exhaust manifold,DP,"2 1/4 IC pipes with a Star quest (not ideal anymore),TT RX7 fuel pump,stock 1g MAF pipe,Grainger valve boost controller,stock MAF,450s etc etc. I think it would have been quicker if I'd had more track time instead of making two passes and saying "Ok,that's what it runs!" in fear of breaking my sole transportation.

After that,I did a "3 MAS pipe with the 2g MAS,550s,and an AFC (and finally a pocketlogger) and it ran really strong seat of the pants but I never made it back to the track.

I ran the hell out of the thing for years,and was a reliable DD.This was before everyone had even pocketloggers (I didnt for years),its been a while since I've played with these cars-interesting contrast the simple setups years ago to nowadays,where everyone suggests going to ECMLINK right off.



going to link right off the bat is a huge step. its not like an SAFC or HKS fuel solution, it allows you to change a lot of things and really dial the car in, if you plan on doing any upgrades to the car you'll need things like an safc and a chip for new fuel tables and other controls. that alone will cost almost 350$ and you still need to spend the 50-75$ on the pocket logger to monitor everything going on, so why not just spend the extra money and make life easy, it allows you to log things not log-able in MMCD and it has a few open spots so you can add extra monitoring devices. I.E. fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp ect.. the list can go on. this is all my opinion, but in my mind it makes the most logical sense as a starting point.
 

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Well,

The costs certainly seem to be mounting. Like Ian M, I came from old school days, where open exhaust, cleaned up intakes, port matching, MSD6A and an HKS cam let me up my boost on my StarQuest (< BTW, Turbo Magazine credits me for giving the Starion/Conquest series that name from my Letter to the editor way back when ('92ish?), and thanked me for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Sigh, I can now die peacefully knowing I'm famous! (oh wait....I signed the letter anonymous...damn....))

Anyhow, A lot of these recommendations sounds like serious downtime for my DD, and although funds exist to pull the trigger on every one of them, I really need to ponder the hit to my savings considering I spent a great deal just bringing her back to life. In the end, I may well farm out the task to a shop that can take the car, and return it to me in a week.

Anyone know a trusted shop in the Seattle area?

V



 

EfiniX

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
647
Location
portland, or
Pina motorsports in Tacoma was the bomb, but I'm not sure that Andre is still in the biz. English Racing in Camas is not close, but they are the authority on DSM tuning in the region.

My $0.02 on basic mods is this: start with reliability and move to performance. These cars are 20+ years old. ECU with new capacitors is a must. Timing belt, compression, fuel delivery. You need ECU management and a wideband. After that, go nuts. Intake, exhaust, and all the fun bits.

For my part, replacing the motor within the first 4 months of ownership was the best decision I made.
 

JoeDaddy0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
63
Location
CA, USA, Beverly Hills
I just got my car back from English Racing.
Intake: ER SD kit
750 injecters
GSC Evo 1-3 DSM1 268 Cams
Forced Performance 68HTA (big16G)and manifold
DSM link and regrettably I have No wide band gauge or wide band run fuel management but affordable alternative fuel management system and already regretting not getting the 73HTA or their 20G. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
two figures are 2.5" and after 3" exhaust pipe and still waiting for Flowmaster muffler. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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strokin4dr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,770
Location
Savannah, GA
Boost level? Max timing advance?

Quoting JoeDaddy0:
I just got my car back from English Racing.
Intake: ER SD kit
750 injecters
GSC Evo 1-3 DSM1 268 Cams
Forced Performance 68HTA (big16G)and manifold
DSM link and regrettably I have No wide band gauge or wide band run fuel management but affordable alternative fuel management system and already regretting not getting the 73HTA or their 20G. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
two figures are 2.5" and after 3" exhaust pipe and still waiting for Flowmaster muffler. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
I daily'd my 1G for years, all the way till I worked up to mid 12s @ 112, after that things started to get complicated /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif But up until that point, thing was reliable as hell, I put 50k miles on it, which put it up to 213k, before I pulled engine/trans out of choice, not necessity. I, like many speaking up, went with Link very early on, and dont regret it a bit! Let me give you the quick timeline/recipe, and you can decide how far you wanna go. Keep in mind my DA is 3k ft, and this was my daily so I wasnt launching the piss out of it, so your mileage may vary as they say.
First time at the track- 14.2@95. It had, 3" turboback off stock O2 housing, Drop in high flow air filter, MBC at 15 psi.
Second time out- 13.7@100. Had Link, GM MAF, wideband, clutch, all the free mods, boost @16psi.
Later in the year- 13.1@104. Had big 16g, 2G ex mani, EWG on ported O2H, 3G HLAs, ARP headstuds/crower 264/272 cams (put in without taking head off), 190LPH, 1050 injectors, crappy eBay FMIC hitting 155* IATs. boost @21psi.
This combo ^^ With 50/50 race gas- 12.82@107. 1.8 60ft.
Next year- 12.61@112. pump gas, VRSF FMIC, BSE, light FW, cyclone, water/meth injection, 4 bolt rear.

This was stock trans, longblock, ect. Things were very very affordable and simple up until this point. I pieced together the water/meth kit triggered by link, it made 320/325, compression was 139-145 psi, It never gave me any guff. Heres a vid my buddy made of it, even though Im piecing together a built engine in the pics, it was running stock longblock and such. click
I should have logs of all these if you want any
 
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