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Packing the oil pump

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
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Mar 5, 2001
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10,964
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Hey guys, as has been discussed before, one idea to prime the oil pump is to fill it with grease before assembly. Just a question how you usually do this. I did it last time with the rear cover over the pump removed because mine was cracked and I needed to replace it. Now with a new pump, I am thinking I don't want to remove the cover, and instead just inject grease up through the pickup tube.

Any other suggestions how best to do this? Thanks.
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
Are you doing a BS elimination? You'd have to split the cover to put in a stubby shaft. Even if you aren't doing that, I don't believe a gasket is in there, so you'd only have to re torque the cover on.

As for the grease, Toybreaker told me a mix of grease and oil in a slurry was his suggestion.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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I don't think you need to remove that to do the BSE, and yes, I am doing it. The shaft slides in from the back and bolts from the front.

You're right, no gasket, but the 2g/7 bolt oil pump cover has this annoying flathead philips head screw that is a hassle to get out. Maybe new it won't be, I haven't tried yet.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
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Apr 30, 2006
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3,581
Dave, I usually tear down the pump and check it before I install it. It's amazing what I've found in brandy new pumps over the years /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

I pack the pump when I re-assemble it, using a little redline engine assembly lube (moly fortified! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ), mixed with a little engine oil. I've always kind of thought vaseline wasn't the best product for that application. It's just my opinion, I know a lot of people use vaseline in their pumps, and I used to... but since I changed over to the redline/oil slurry, I haven't had a single issue of any kind.

I also install a filter, fill the crankcase with oil and pre-oil the engine on the stand. I use a cordless screwdriver or low power cordless drill right before I put the t-belt on, to insure the filter, all the galleys/lifters and the turbo are full.

Many have had success packing the pump, installing the engine, and then just disconnecting the cas in situ. A little cranking the engine over on the starter (with the spark plugs out to increase cranking speed and reduce bearing loading) usually get's the oil light off fairly quickly. I think c.r did his this way, and it runs just fine. In fact, I usually do this as well, but I always feel better knowing it's already full of oil.

Good luck with your build! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Last edited:

Armitage

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Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
If you don't have access to/don't want to remove the cover, it's not necessary to pack the pump to prime it.

Quote:
One way to get the oil pump primed is to remove the stock idiot light pressure sender and screw in a threaded bung (1/8 BSPT IIRC). You can just remove the PCV port from the intake manifold and screw that sucker in there. Get out the Mityvac and apply suction till oil starts filling your bottle. Took me about 2 minutes of constant pumping the Mity... Put the idiot light sender back in with teflon tape then spin the pump, you'll have oil up in the head in no time.

 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Last time I did one I actually used my Vacula brake bleeder in the oil filter housing and pulled the oil up that way.
 
Last edited:

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
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Sioux Falls, SD
Quoting toybreaker:
Dave, I usually tear down the pump and check it before I install it. It's amazing what I've found in brandy new pumps over the years /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

I pack the pump when I re-assemble it, using a little redline engine assembly lube (moly fortified! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ), mixed with a little engine oil. I've always kind of thought vaseline wasn't the best product for that application. It's just my opinion, I know a lot of people use vaseline in their pumps, and I used to... but since I changed over to the redline/oil slurry, I haven't had a single issue of any kind.

I also install a filter, fill the crankcase with oil and pre-oil the engine on the stand. I use a cordless screwdriver or low power cordless drill right before I put the t-belt on, to insure the filter, all the galleys/lifters and the turbo are full.

Many have had success packing the pump, installing the engine, and then just disconnecting the cas in situ. A little cranking the engine over on the starter (with the spark plugs out to increase cranking speed and reduce bearing loading) usually get's the oil light off fairly quickly. I think c.r did his this way, and it runs just fine. In fact, I usually do this as well, but I always feel better knowing it's already full of oil.

Good luck with your build! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif





+1 on the drill method, best insurance period. Leave the valve cover off and you can watch it reach up there. Only do this if your going to start your engine right after though. Otherwise you could end up dry starting your bearings, otherwise you want assembly lube on everything. It doesn't seep out.

If you can't do it this way, just use enough assembly lube to coat everything. It will last about 2 minutes without oil and the engine running. So just start up the engine and watch for oil. Oil pressure will build fast, within seconds. If not, then something is wrong. If you "pack the pump" then all that crap will have to work it's way through the engine and could either clog or delay oil from getting into all the spots. Oil pumps are meant to pump oil, not grease. Chris Anderson of AAP in Atlanta once told me this.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
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Apr 30, 2006
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3,581
Quoting Prove It:
Leave the valve cover off and you can watch it reach up there



Heh... be mindfull of the two bleed holes in the lifter feed gallies down by the cam gears... a three stooges episode where oil drips off the underhood insulation for the next two months is possible if you spin er up to full speed with thin oil... (not that I would know or anything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif )

I also definately agree with less is more when it comes to priming the system. My goal has always been to insure the lifters are full and purged of air. Any more, and you're just washing the assembly lube out of the bearings.

I also think that before it's started for the first time, it should be cranked over on the starter with the spark plugs out, and the cas unplugged untill the oil light goes out. Just takes about 15 seconds or so.

This will aslo help prime the fuel system.

Do not crank it with the cas plugged in! It will spray enough fuel to wash the bores
 

DailyDSM

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Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
433
Location
Carlsbad, CA
I used the drill method as well after assembling my pump from scratch. I had everything assembled, including valve cover and left my turbo feed line unhooked at the in-line filter off the head. Pressure built extremely fast (maybe 10-15 seconds at most). I'd say it's worth the effort to pack the pump properly.
 

ive just did a bse on my gvr4 ,the motor is out of the car on a stand ,before i put the pump on the block i packed it with vasaline ....`but now whats the next step????im hearing about a drill method ...do i assemble the rest of the motor then use a drill ???where does the drill go???sorry for all the questions this is my first galant/dsm so i dont want any problems
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Barnes

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Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
IMO, if you have it on the stand with the pan off, do the following:

Flip the motor upside down. Remove the oil pickup tube. Pour oil into the oil pump. Wait till it starts leaking out somewhere else down stream. You won't even need to prime it after this.
 

I did this for my 6g72 and it worked like a champ! No priming was needed. Had full pressue on the first few cranks.
 
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