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overcharging alt

Kibby

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
216
Location
Baltimore,MD
Haven't posted in awhile due to unemployment and just being busy. Chain of events with my car is random but always something happening. Last work was a complete timing belt job which it was off a few teeth. Anways after it was complete the alt decided to start charging over 15 volts to the battery and melting a wire. I removed the alternator and had it tested to be ok. My question is can I do one of the "big 3" upgrades without it backfiring. I do want to pinpoint the issue but I want the car to run so I can fix it other issues as i go. Can I run a wire from the alternator straight to the battery without an issue As well as putting the pos wire on the battery using a dual cable connector.
 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
question 1 -is the alt overcharging and putting out 15v? or is it ok?

question 2 -did a wire fry? which one and after fixing why, just replace it

question 3 -what do you mean by dual cable connector? do you need an extra accessory line?
 

Kibby

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
216
Location
Baltimore,MD
When I hooked up a volt meter at the battery it was around 14.5-15. The wire before the battery where I believe the alt wire is running to was making 15.3+ That wire was getting so hot it was starting to melt the connector box it was in. No wires have been fried as far as I know. By dual connector I mean its one I've had before where you insert the cable to run an amp and also the wire for the car itself. The only reason I wanted to attempt this was I didn't want to risk frying something while testing by bypassing the factory alt wire. I assume there is a short or wire grounding on the car not to mention the battery keeps dying at random time spans of sitting, from hours then it dies, to weeks n itll start right up. I'm not sure how many volts the alt is making; advanced auto only told me it was good so idk where to go from here. I'm frustrated that the car is 99% stock and I can't even just drive it.
 

Kibby

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
216
Location
Baltimore,MD
Caved n got a reman alternator. And put it back together and what a suprise now the fuel pump isn't kicking on. Idk what to do
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting moneypit:
My guess is a faulty voltage regulator



Since the voltage regulators are built into the alternator, it's pretty much a given that the unit needs to be completely replaced, or taken out and rebuilt.

Looks like it's already been replaced. I give it a year before the alternator craps out again if you got a Duralast or whatever Oreilly/checker/schucks/kragen or pepboys sells. Stock alternators seem to last a good LOOOOOOONG while. $100 remans from the major retailers seem to last 12 months or so. I can't even count how many alternators i've replaced over the years.

I'm hoping that since i've relocated mine it will last longer than 12 months.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
You need to check the integrity of the large white alternator wires and especially the connections to make sure they are clean and secure. The alternator will continue to try and push current when it is not getting to where it needs to go.
 

Kibby

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
216
Location
Baltimore,MD
Jumped the fuel pump to make sure it was good and it was. Trid to start it and nothing. Light for dsmlink cable wasn't on so now no ecu power. Continuin to diag tomorrow.
 

Kibby

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
216
Location
Baltimore,MD
Clip for connector going around side of passenger strut tower came apart. 13.5-6 at battery. Gotta put radiator backin and hook up pipes to make sure its finally driveable.
 
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