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New GVR4 Owner - Colorado

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Absolutely. Once I replaced the struts and strut mounts, the front end bouncing was completely gone...And the suspension noise was gone too.

After playing in the snow on Saturday, the 4ws light is on. Got to figure out where it's leaking from, but I need the snow to melt first, which could take a while.
 

stealthtt24

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
2,746
Location
Orlando, FL
Thanks, where did you pick up your gr2s from? Im thinking about purchasing them but I plan on selling the car this year. On the 4ws, have you seen any fluid from the front to the rear of the car? If the car has any rust I'm betting its the source.
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
It's been quite a while since I updated this thread. And I'll even update with pictures later tonight.

A month ago, I was driving the car on the highway and it overheated. I thought I had shut it down in time, but from that day on, anytime I drove the car, it would push coolant into the overflow, and I was always adding coolant...A sure sign of a blown head gasket.

A week ago, I pulled the head and sent it to the machine shop to get checked out & to have new seals put in. I figured that since I had it all apart, I may as well replace everything I could think of. Ordered a bunch of stuff:

BSEK
OEM timing belt, tensioner, pullies etc
new front case
new oil pump gears
new water pump
new upper/lower timing cover
Turbo oil feed line (from the head - I don't like feeding from the OFH)
All new gaskets & seals
Composite HG (running an E16G at 13psi = no reason to go MLS...Plus, stock clutch = not going to push my luck)
4-layer exhaust manifold gasket
Magnus heat barrier intake manifold gasket
Plug wires
ARP head studs

I just finished pulling the front case, knocking out the balance shafts and the balance shaft bearings last night. Since I left the block in the car, it was a PITA! If I ever had to do a BSEK again, I would just pull the engine.

To do a BSEK while the engine is still in the car, I basically had to remove everything besides the passenger side engine mount, rear engine mount and the axles. If I had removed those 4 additional pieces, I could have just pulled the engine/tranny in the 1st place. Note to anyone doing this....Just pull the engine and save yourself a lot of headaches.
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Does anyone in CO have a V3 DSMlink cable I can borrow for about 5 minutes? For some reason, my DSMlink stopped connecting the other day and I want to see if I have a bad cable.
 

Yao

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2001
Messages
810
Location
Denver, CO
I got one, I think. I am at bowls and wads, just let me know and drop on by.
 

Yao

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2001
Messages
810
Location
Denver, CO
It was good meeting you! glad that it's only the cable!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif get it working and let's go to galant meet and go for a drive!!
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Was great meeting you as well. Thanks again for letting me hook up my ECU and DSMlink cable.
Your car made me want to spend money. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Just got the new ECMlink cable and now am able to connect without issue (thanks again Yao). New problem is that I can max out the knock retard in every single gear at any engine speed. Even neutral, I can peg the knock counts by just revving the engine.

Things I've tried: verified base timing set at 5 degrees, added fuel, lowered timing, filled up with E85. None of it worked. Still can peg the knock retard in neutral by revving the engine.

Next steps to get rid of PK, add more electrical grounds, 3G lifters, new clutch and flywheel (I need those anyway, so it's a decent excuse).

I realized I haven't posted any pix in a while, so here's one of the engine bay.

Since the last pic, I got rid of cruise, have EVO8 MAF & injectors, E16G, 2G manifold & O2 housing, 3" turboback, Forge BOV, MBC (set at 8psi so far).
 

Yao

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2001
Messages
810
Location
Denver, CO
Check your knock sensor, either loose, old, or too tight.
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
I forgot to mention. Knock sensor is brand new. I loosened it yesterday and it didn't make any difference. Will tighten it again and see if that helps.
 

Dark_Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Bit of an update. After 4 years, the car finally completed the emissions inspection. The last 2 times I tried, something happened. 1st time, the battery died after I shut the car off and the inspection place refused to test it since they would have to keep jumping it every time it was shut off. 2nd time, the car started puking coolant while waiting for the test and I had to drive it back home.

But this time, the car was able to be tested...and it promptly failed for high hydrocarbons. 2.5x over the limit.

Not sure what they did at the emissions testing place, but the car smelled like something was burning after I got the car back and it was very, very hard to start. Smelled like either a burned clutch, or something electrical got fried.

I figured passing would be a sure thing, since all I've got are EVO injectors, EVO MAF, 3" exhaust and DSMlink. Going to throw in E85, retard timing and try again in a few days.
 
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