need trans help

I hade broken the case on my transaxle and I swapped with another case. Now I assembled it but I am thinking maybe didn't line up detents right or something as it is not shifting properly. I was wondering if anyone has a factory repair manual for this transmission As I am a mechanic but I work for toyota so I haven't torn into any mitsu transmissions but i have rebuilt my share of toyota transmissions. If anyone has a link or could help me out with some info for the repair manual I would greatly appreciate it.
thanks

 

[GVR4_1057]

I assume you properly re shimmed all of the taper bearings properly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

I swapped all the shims that were in the old case with the races.

 

[GVR4_1057]

That will not work. The shims are to adjust the bearing clearance matched to that case. You will have to reshim for that exact setup.

 

[spoulson]

Right. When the shafts are shimmer too loose, you'll feel shifted slop and binding depending on driving conditions. Too tight and the shifted has trouble slipping into gear, feeling like you're going to bend the shifter rod.

When the trans is out, you can test the shift quality a bit by using a clutch disk to turn the input shaft while you mess with the levers.

Don't forget to use a good sealant. I recommend Permatex anaerobic sealant (forget the number).

 

ok. someone sent me a link to the repair manual. I will reshim all the taper bearings. any easy ways to do this or just follow what the manual says.

 

[GVR4_1057]

I think the manual suggests using solder to measure your clearance. I have had better luck using plasti-gage as it is easier to flatten out and gives a better reading. I will check I think I have the right manual at home.

 

[iceman69510]

If you do the solder method, make sure it is soft enough solder. Initially I used some harder stuff and it gave incorrect results.

 

[gtluke]

describe what is wrong with the trans in more detail. i doubt shimming matters enough that it would be an actual problem.

 

[Barnes]

I'd put my money on shimming. The factory didn't make all those sizes of shims out of boredom.

 

[gtluke]

yeah they set bearing preload. sounds to me like he's got something actually wrong.

 

[turbowop]

Shimming a transmission incorrectly will mess up shifting pretty bad depending on how "off" the shimming is. If he just threw the shims from one case/gearset into another case he could have some serious issues.

The shafts, bearings, races, etc, are all machined pretty well. The case halves/pieces, however, are not. Shims are there to adjust between different case piece castings.

Also, from what I've heard, you can shim loose or tight depending on how you want a trans to act. Loose usually makes for smoother shifting, but not as strong of gears, and vice versa. I leave that stuff to the experts though. Shimming is practically an art. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[GVR4_1057]

This is the shim spec page. I can e-mail the entire manual in PDF if you want. Just PM me your e-mail

 

[spoulson]

+1 on the soft solder. One of the mistakes I made on my 1st trans rebuild was using plumbing solder because it was thick enough. But, it was too hard and gave me inflated readings. The shims I installed made the box extremely hard to shift. Instead, I took some electrical solder and twisted them together if necessary to get enough thickness. Worked great for me.

 

[Telecaster]

How exactly do you "shim" the taper bearings, or whats process rather? I'm about to do a case swap as well for the 1st time.

 

[14bCrazy]

I glad that your my friend Billy so that I don't have to know this stuff. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GVR4_1057]

When you take the case apart you will notice that there are circular steel shims that are between the bearing race (the solid steel part) and the aluminum case,they set up the proper amount of clearance for the bearing to work properly. The process is when re shimming the case replace the shim with soft solder (the softer the better)and you don't have to try to make it circular ,I usually just put on 3 1/2" segments evenly spaced around the race . A bit of grease helps them to stay in position. Reassemble the case and properly tighten the bolts. I usually leave the fifth gear cover off and space the bolts up to make up for the height difference so I can spin the shafts to insure that they are crushing the solder properly.Then disassemble the case again and collect your solder pieces being careful to segregate them by which bearing they were in. Measure the crushed solder pieces with a micrometer,and try to get a good even measurement. Then take this thickness and see the table above and subtract your clearance spec from your measurement and this is the thickness of shin that you need. You can buy the shims from Mitsu or a local transmission shop (maybe). I usually make up the ones that I need on the lathe and surface grind them to get them nice and parallel. These things *must* be parallel. Then it is still a good idea to reassemble your case without sealant with all of your new proper shims in place to verify that all of your shafts turn nicely and to not wiggle around. Then you can pull it back apart and assemble with sealant and you are done.

 

[Telecaster]

So which from the reference from the table am I comparing for the front case swap (block/flywheel side)? "input shaft front bearing end play?"