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Need help with a quickness *Update as of 2 July*

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Tyler, where is the car now?
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
The car is currently at STMs shop in Avon, Ny. Just outside Rochester, Ny. Ill have them pull the valve cover and check the CAS today
 

jmelocik

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
126
Location
Cameron, NC
You said the car sat for 2 or 3 years. I'm hoping you or someone there drained the fuel that was in it and replaced it with fresh gas. I'm fairly certain Em would have done that already but just in case. Also, you said the car would over heat if below 35mph. Did it get very hot? leak down test of each cylinder might be in order. again I'm sure Em has already done that but it never hurts to mention it.

Josh
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
The car did sit for 2-3 years, but was started regularly and driven a few miles every few months. Also the fans werent coming on due to some electrical issue at the fans. It never got hot for more than a minute or two.
 

slugsgomoo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
Out of curiosity, does the car have a cat in it still?

I've seen stuff where under low to moderate throttle a car will run ok, but when throttle is applied a clogged cat makes it fall on its face. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Yes the car has a high flow cat. Ill look into that. As for the most recent update, I will be picking the Galant up this Friday, untuned. According to STM there is just "something wrong with the car" No sh*t, why do you think I brought it to your shop to begin with. I have also been told that I should just sell the Galant and get an EVO. Roger that, are you paying for the EVO? Last time I checked and EVO cost just a teeny bit more than a Galant VR4 is worth.

I guess STM didnt do any data logging while it was on the dyno, so there are no logs available to me. I guess I will have to wait until I get the car and try to figure out how to log a few pulls and then post them up. If anyone wants come by and screw around with the car in the next couple of weeks feel free to shoot me a PM and we can figure something out. Just dont charge me $1800 to not fix my car like STM please. Thanks guys

Tyler
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
" Just dont charge me $1800 to not fix my car like STM please. Thanks guys"


Ouch /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif i really don't know what else to suggest. Without logs it's just a guessing game and youve been over all the guesses.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
Did they/you try eliminating link all together? See what happens when you just put the car back to stock. Find a KNOWN working ECU and plug it in.
 

dsm10o0

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Messages
680
Location
San Jose CA
Wow! That's the biggest rip off ever. Shouldn't have paid then that much.
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Quoting James:
Did they/you try eliminating link all together? See what happens when you just put the car back to stock. Find a KNOWN working ECU and plug it in.



I asked them to try differernt things with the ECU but they told me they couldnt do that unless I bought a whole new link for $600. No thanks.

1800 isnt too bad I suppose. They did get me an AFPR, New plugs and wires, new DS tie rod, 4ws delete kit thing, new wastegate, new front rotors and calipers, and removed all the powersteering tomfoolery. They didnt charge me at all for the 2 days they told me it was on the dyno. That probably would have been 1800 all by itself. Still, thats a lot of money to fork over for a non tuned vehicle that I has been at the shop for 2 and a half months getting "fixed"...
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
Well you should be able to find someone with a working ECU to just you plug it in and do a few pulls without the help of STM
 

jmelocik

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
126
Location
Cameron, NC
Wait, you already have ECM link on your car and they wanted you to buy another one? Was it for troubleshooting purposes? Do they suspect something wrong with your ECU? Why would they not have logged it while it was on the dyno unless they had connection issues? Something isn't adding up here.

Josh
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Got the car back. Runs awesome until boost. Then it sputters. Not as violent as it used to be but still there and there is no power. I'll post up a log later tonight. Still in Rochester having a burger. I'll be downloading link software as soon as I get back to drum
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Alrighty. My Link laptop took a sh*t on me so no logs for now. I did make the 150 mile drive back up to Drum from Rochester with no major issues except that I had an intermittent CEL. It would just randomly come on while cruising at 65-70mph. Not trying to get into boost or anything just cruising. It would flicker for a few seconds and then come all the way on and a little while later it would flicker for a second or two and then go out. No changes in throttle input or anything. The car was also running rich pretty much the whole time. My AFR was at 15.1-15.4 most of the time and occasionally it would bump up to 17 or so for a couple of seconds. It didnt seem to have an effect on the CEL one way or the other.

I was wondering if there was a small exhaust leak at the turbo or O2 housing whould that effect how the car runs? i.e. the sputtering while under boost? I think I might have a bad seal from the turbo to the O2 housing right before the O2 sensor. Its making me think that the O2 sensor isnt reading all of the air all of the time making the car constantly try to compensate with fuel causing the rich AFR, sputtering under boost, and occasional backfires. Thoughts? And be nice if all of that was completely ignorant. Its been a long day

Tyler
 

gramkrakr89

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
308
Location
Bunker Hill, WV
^^ The ECU ignores O2 at WOT as far as I know (open loop). It only watches it during lower load, lower throttle, lower RPM combinations (closed loop) to set fuel trims.

Your flickering/intermittent CEL sounds like what happens when the "coolant temp CEL" value is exceeded by the coolant temp sensor. You can set what temperature the CEL comes on... when coolant temp exceeds this value, what you're describing with the CEL is exactly what happens.

AFR is air/fuel ratio - the higher the number, the less fuel (and more oxygen) is left in the exhaust mixture. (e.g. 10/1 is rich, 20/1 is lean, 14.7/1 is the midpoint stoichiometric ratio to which rich/lean is defined.) So, 15/1 is actually slightly leaner than stoich, and much much leaner than you want to be running at full throttle.

At low-throttle, low-load cruise, your AFR should be oscillating around 14.7, due to the ECU watching the O2 sensor for rich/lean feedback... 15 is close enough, so your O2 feedback seems to be functioning properly

Lots of basic things could be adding up to cause your problem.
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
Got a new tuning laptop today and installed Link. I should be able to post up a log tonight if I can figure out how. Stay tuned
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
OK, there is a lot going on in Link. I have no Idea what Im doing.I have been watching demos and reading up on how to use Link, but I dont have a working knowledge of Link. Is there anyone in the area(within a couple hours of Ft Drum) that can help a brother out?

618 MAF is in the car. Could that be a problem? All I have found is that they are from 3000GTs and Stealths. Should I change my Maf to a 609, 501, or 399? Or will that make any difference?
 
Last edited:

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
i would say that it would be a good idea to put the 609 2g MAF back in, as its a known supported MAF through link. the intermittent CEL could be the coolant temp sensor as others have stated, however i also feel as if the 3000GT MAF isn't the right piece of the puzzle.

if you can afford a 5-6 hour drive, id be more than happy to help you out, im down here in CT.
 

ducttapeguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
1,208
Location
Ft Hood/San Antonio, Tx
I might be down for a trip to CT, I have a buddy down in Killingsworth anyway. Ill get that Maf replaced as soon as I can.

For now I have a log of me getting on the highway doing a partial 2-3 pull. How do I go about posting that jazz here?
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Killingsworth eh? do you know any DSM'ers down there?

let me know man. ill gladly help you out!
 
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