The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
My car turns over strong but wont start? Cam pos. sen?
- Thread starterTOM
- Start date
turbowop
Well-known member
Dammnit I wish I had more time to come give you a hand, Tom. Work is brutal lately with me having to go out of town during the whole week.
SSGdave
Well-known member
injector connectors/connection???
ive seen cars with an abundance of corrosion on the injector prongs and the connector. cause rough idling or no start.
ive seen cars with an abundance of corrosion on the injector prongs and the connector. cause rough idling or no start.
grocery_getter
Well-known member
Noid light connects the two legs of the injector with a light in the middle of it. When you test crank the injector, if everything is good the noid lights would blink on everytime the ecu grounds the injector. The ecu grounds the injector during its operation. Thats how it is opening and closing the injector. Its great that the test light lights up one of the leg. I like to use a multimeter to make sure i am getting good battery voltage on one leg of the injector with the key on ON. You probably have bad injector controller in the ecu. The ecu didn't ground the injector to open them up.
I used the noid light and all of them seam fine...they all blink when I crank the car over, How do I test the fuel pump? I did take the line off the fuel line and cranked it over and it will pump gas out the line....that mean its working right? How do I use the jumper wire up by the brake master cyl.?
turbowop
Well-known member
If it's pumping out fuel when cranking the car, the fuel pump is working. Tow that thing to my house and I'll work on it when I get a chance. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Last edited:
Now the car is giving me a ce. light and it looks as if it blinks 4 long and 1 short and I think that means injectors. I did unplug them to test them, would that have made the light blink? what should I test now? can I pull the injector off the rail and see if it sprays out gas?
DR1665
Well-known member
Definitely something electrical afoot with this one.
Once and for all, CAS has nothing to do with fuel pump operation while cranking. Period. MFI relay has multiple coils and will trigger the pump to prime the system during cranking even with the ECU sitting on the roof of a gutted Eclipse on the other side of the garage. (Ask me how I know this.) For the OP, there's a really easy way to test this for yourself. Disconnect the CAS and re-test. If you get fuel at the rail, it's pretty obvious, isn't it?
Here's a spliced together screenshot of pages 146-147 from the FSM hosted here on the site under "Library." CKP/CAS are referenced on page 148, as referenced by the little red box lower left directing to schematic connector B. And, also worth noting, dotted lines across the MFICU represent multiple connections to/from same device (thus removing CAS from the equation).
Just saying.
Once and for all, CAS has nothing to do with fuel pump operation while cranking. Period. MFI relay has multiple coils and will trigger the pump to prime the system during cranking even with the ECU sitting on the roof of a gutted Eclipse on the other side of the garage. (Ask me how I know this.) For the OP, there's a really easy way to test this for yourself. Disconnect the CAS and re-test. If you get fuel at the rail, it's pretty obvious, isn't it?
Here's a spliced together screenshot of pages 146-147 from the FSM hosted here on the site under "Library." CKP/CAS are referenced on page 148, as referenced by the little red box lower left directing to schematic connector B. And, also worth noting, dotted lines across the MFICU represent multiple connections to/from same device (thus removing CAS from the equation).
Just saying.
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
good post Brian!
There's some good posts in this thread, but there's also some wild ass "guesss".
Since it runs on starting fluid, that pretty much gives most of the usuall suspects a pass.
One thing that jumps out is the post about sparks coming from the coil terminal area. That should be investigated thoroughly, and if you have any questions about coditions there, post a pic or two. The terminals down isnide the platic towers should be clean and dry with no traces of burning or carbon dust.
Since it passed Andre's noid light test, I thin a very valid test would be to power the pump up artificially and see if she'll run. That can be doe with dsmlink and some logger setups. It can aslo be doen with the fuel pump test wire that hangs out over by the brake booster.
A fused jumper wire can be run over to the batttery postive termoinal to energise the pump.
If she runs then, it may very well be the ecu can't pull the relay on. Many times the ecu's suffer acid damage some before the caps were repllaced, and it's just now showing up. The residual acid will eat at the board for years if it's not correctly removed/neutralissed. A quick test by substituion of known good ecu will tell that tale.
At any rate, good luck with the troubleshooting, and if you get stuck, don;t hesititate to post up any new questions.
*might be a good idea to stock up on a beer that TurboWop likes so he'll come over and take a look! He's got these cars pretty well figured out and can probably have it purring down to the liquour store in short order.
There's some good posts in this thread, but there's also some wild ass "guesss".
Since it runs on starting fluid, that pretty much gives most of the usuall suspects a pass.
One thing that jumps out is the post about sparks coming from the coil terminal area. That should be investigated thoroughly, and if you have any questions about coditions there, post a pic or two. The terminals down isnide the platic towers should be clean and dry with no traces of burning or carbon dust.
Since it passed Andre's noid light test, I thin a very valid test would be to power the pump up artificially and see if she'll run. That can be doe with dsmlink and some logger setups. It can aslo be doen with the fuel pump test wire that hangs out over by the brake booster.
A fused jumper wire can be run over to the batttery postive termoinal to energise the pump.
If she runs then, it may very well be the ecu can't pull the relay on. Many times the ecu's suffer acid damage some before the caps were repllaced, and it's just now showing up. The residual acid will eat at the board for years if it's not correctly removed/neutralissed. A quick test by substituion of known good ecu will tell that tale.
At any rate, good luck with the troubleshooting, and if you get stuck, don;t hesititate to post up any new questions.
*might be a good idea to stock up on a beer that TurboWop likes so he'll come over and take a look! He's got these cars pretty well figured out and can probably have it purring down to the liquour store in short order.
turbowop
Well-known member
Change that filter while you're at it.
Ok the jumper wire did work but I can put my finger over the end of the fuel line and stop the flow with ease.....should I be able to do this? I would think a 190 pump would pump out alot of gas but mine seams real slow and no pressure.
gramkrakr89
Well-known member
...maybe check the pump fittings inside the gas tank? No/low fuel pressure with the pump running sounds like a pressure leak somewhere.
