More Newbie Questions for 560

[clevr4]

Okay,I took 560 to my second job as delivery driver for dominos. I actually got to pull pretty hard on her. anyways, ive been noticing that switching gears, especially 3 to 4th and 4th to 5th after i let off throttle and engage clutch my rpms go up. at first i thought my foot was still slightly on throttle but it seems to be pretty consistent. i got to thinking what it could be. ive come up with a. throttle cable return. im guessing some kind of spring. or B. sports cars do this. havent really investigated much, just got home from work and work at full time job tomorrow. also, are dsm's known to vibrate really bad? im not sure if the motor mounts are designed like that but anywhere in 3k rpm 1st and 2nd i get vibration and louder noise. If there areany mounts that can solve this and still keep things tight id be all over that. thanks in advance. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

 

[coyotes]

At what RPM does the car idle at? If the rpms jump up you are either pushing in the clutch pedal before you're fully off the gas or the tension on your throttle cable is too tight.

VR4s are not DSMs, as they were made in Japan. All DSMs were made in the Ill state. Compare build quality between a japanese mitsubishi and one made domestically, and be glad you have one that is made in japan. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

The vibration could be any number of things and we would need to know more about your setup. If you have balance shafts removed it can cause more vibration. Or you have aftermarket motor mounts, or your stock ones are worn out. Or your oil pump is out of synch.

 

[clevr4]

my car idles around 800. I am not sure about the motor mounts. the throttle cable may be too tight, i was under the hood showing my coworker the engine and pulled the throttle and it seemed kind of tense. the motor mounts seem to look alright, not sure if they are after market or not. further inspection needed.

 

[Coltsfan]

You say it vibrates at around three thousand RPM; I'm pretty sure you'll find your rear balance shaft out of phase. The oil pump sprocket turns three times for each revolution of the rear balance shaft. For 4g63 newbies, it's easy to toss on a timing belt, and screw this up. If you just line up the notches, there's a two out of three chance you'll line this one up wrong.

As for the revving issue, I'm not sure I understand your description of the symptom.

And yeah, don't ever refer to your Galant as a DSM on here. It's not A DSM, it just shares 99% of the drivetrain and chassis parts. Other than that, it has nothing in common.

For your vibration: TDC your engine (both cam dowels should be facing up), and locate the 14mm hex bolt on the back of your engine block just above the oil pan. It will be a stubby bolt that holds nothing onto the block. Remove this bolt and insert a quarter inch extension into the hole. The extension should be able to slide into the hole at least 3-4 inches without contacting anything. If it hits something, then as suspected, your balance shaft is out of phase.

 

[clevr4]

good information, i will have to check this out, finding the time is another story. My day off was spent helping a fellow dominos driver, an old man who is somewhat homeless. He said he needed his rear brakes changed... turned into me replacing a caliper, doing the brakes, and changing the oil... needless to say it was all out of the kindness of heart. 6 hours of dealing with that pos ford taurus and didnt get a dime out of it

 

[clevr4]

click

Thoughts on this turbo? Is it much of an upgrade?

 

[prove_it]

It is until you get into boost. Then it blows up.

You can not buy a new quality turbo for 200 bucks. There are a lot of chinese knock-offs now in days. It's not genuine and uses different internal bearings and seals that are very sub par. Also they are not balanced and I've seen brand new ones come apart the first time it spools.

You can have a 14b converted to a bastard 20g. Not sure what your mods are, or what your plans are, but fwiw I pushed my 14b to a 13.2 with stock tires and full weight. The 14b can be a great turbo, if it's in good shape.

 

[clevr4]

I guess I've been in the parts for sale and searching for a turbo to compliments the mods that are already installed. I'm not sure what turbo I have exactly. 50 trim.

 

[clevr4]

I read in the faqs that a 16g can handle things well. Didn't see any being put on the for sale. I do have some more research to do, I don't know much about trim and wastegates, boost control.

 

[prove_it]

16g is a great turbo. The one you have linked is not a real 16G though. A real MHI turbo will cost close to 1k dollars.

 

[clevr4]

What should I look for when I buy a 16g? Should I expect to replace all internals after purchasing the housing? Or should it be good to go as soon as I receive it? To get it balanced does it require a machine shop? Thanks if you know

 

[clevr4]

I did see that one company that use to make the frankenstein, now called green? That's a 20g. Is that too much airflow for a daily?

 

[transparentdsm]

for now i would put the turbo on the back burner. it seems you have a lot of maintenance to do and you still have to figure out some issue with the car. get the car up and running properly with link and have it tuned right. get it running, drive it around and set some goals for the car. also you could upgrade to a 16g, but it won't be very useful without proper supporting mods, you will have to leave the boost low.

 

[prove_it]

Like he said. You can't just throw a turbo on and go fast. Your dealing with a 20yr+ car. It needs maintenance. Fluids, ball joints, tie rods, fluid leaks, brakes, bushings, etc. Also bigger turbo means you'll need a front mount intercooler, fuel system upgrades, proper ecu tuning. The list goes on. You can't be cheap and expect to enjoy the car. There are members here that have close to 20k in their cars. To properly run a 20g or bigger turbo expect to spend up to 2k on all needed parts.

 

[clevr4]

Well i got the car with a nice setup. Most maintenance is done, I will be touching up on tune. Go to v3. But the car has forged enternals, oversized valves, hks cams, commetic headgasket with arp studs. 1000cc injectors, supra fuel pump, fmic, braided fuel line. So reading through some of the stage lists I seem to have a good setup. The previous owner stated the turbo was a cheap but works. Which I don't disagree. I've put 1100 miles on her. No issues. The turbo works, I haven't checked intercooler leaks. Or the actual boost pounds. I've never seen it over 14. Guy said it was set on 18. But it feels like it's missing some oomph. Still quick though

 

[Chad989of2000]

First off congrats on the car. Like everyone else has stated, tackle all your maintenance issues and then go about the performance upgrades in steps/stages. When you get all the issues taken care of that the car currently has, it will feel like a ton of performance mods have already gone into it. Maintenance is the name of the game with these cars. Once you have a smooth operating machine and get that itch, throw some performance parts at it. Never cheap out, you get what you pay for in parts. This forum is actually a very powerful tool of knowledge, ask questions and get that thing running pretty.

 

[prove_it]

Can you post pictures?

 

[clevr4]

[/url][/img]

 

[coyotes]

Quoting prove_it:
A real MHI turbo will cost close to 1k dollars.



Brand new, maybe. You can find a used one in good shape for 300-400 dollars. A rebuild kit is another 50-60 and they are relatively easy to rebuild if you are mechanically inclined. A 16g is a good turbo and can make a lot of power to start.

But you will have to do a lot more to your car first before you think about upgrading the turbo. Get a bigger exhaust, and a bigger intercooler. Both are big upgrades to the 4g63 and help out a lot before you stick any turbo on or turn the boost up on the one you have.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting clevr4:

[/url][/img]



this turbo is bigger then a 16g.