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MMCD says car is running 220 degrees at idle

So here is the situation. I replaced the alternator the other day. Unfortunately I had to do it again since the first one was garbage.

Anyways, ever since I have replaced it the car has been overheating at idle. (Not sure if I am just now noticing it or what).

The coolant temp reaches 219 degrees at idle and then the fan knocks the temp down to 206.

The thermostant is a failsafe 180 degree failsafe thermostat and is open since the upper radiator hose is hot. The coolant has been drained twice since the radiator had to be removed twice. The fins on the radiator are pretty straight as are the condensors.

I have bled the system a few times. There is no loss of power and no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

The fan engages at 220 and quickly cools the motor. If I drive the car for just a few seconds temperature drops to about 170. If I rev the motor at idle, the temperature still climbs so I am guessing the water pump is good. The belts to the water pump are all tight too.

I have an ETS FMIC blocking flow to the radiator. This is the only negative that I can see. Maybe it has always been like this, not sure. I don't think so though.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 

Do you have DSM link? If so you can adjust when the fan comes on......

Are you running A/C while this is happening? You can also adjust the A/C fan to come on all the time by re-wiring it.....
 

No DSM link...I heard that the ECU might retard timing if it sees above 200 degrees. Maybe I should have the fan running just below 200 for that reason alone? I have the Ostrich with RT Tuner Pro. I can't remember if that parameter is there.

So 220 is fine at idle eh?
 
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fine? questionable IMO..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif My car sits around 190 at idle, and around 180 when driving. Those are more like stock temps, but most cars with mods like a FMIC run hotter. I have no AC condenser so that helps me out. In any case, I dont think the coolant will boil (which is what most people define as overheating) until somewhere around 130.

You are correct that the ECU pulls timing above a certain temp. I believe it is the same temp that throws a CEL. If you dont have a CEL then you probably aren't having timing pulled.
 

ejc

Active member
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
25
Location
Puerto Rico
I have the same thermostat and having the same issue. My Temp has gone up to 226 at iddle on traffic. When I first installed the thermostat it would range from 196 to 206 but after a engine rebuild (I reuse the t-stat) my temps have increased. I have a stock IC and A/C FYI.
 
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Quoting 92Galant926:
Do you have DSM link? If so you can adjust when the fan comes on......

Are you running A/C while this is happening? You can also adjust the A/C fan to come on all the time by re-wiring it.....



Iirc correctly turning on the ac makes the car run hotter
 

speedyvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
1,245
Location
miami, fl
replace the fan switch. it's on the lower part of the radiator. Your fans first speed isn't turning on. I've already delt with this on my 1g and my vr4. your fan should be turning on at about 196 degrees.
 

I replaced the radiator fan switch and still have the same issue. (I guess replacing the radiator fan switch still wasn't a bad idea).

It turned out to be the harness for the cooling fan. I am wondering exactly where in the connector the failure is.

I could make it more reliable by heat shrinking and soldering. I just don't want to go that route for portability reasons.
 
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