BoostedAWD91
Well-known member
yea the 1g awd control arms have a degree difference in caster which really doesnt matter to most people, for the complete race car guys, im sure someone has some info on how to correct it
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Lower front control arms rusted
- Thread starterjepherz
- Start date
spoulson
Well-known member
Quoting jepherz:
I suggest you never try to restore a car
I will kindly disregard your recommendation. I bid you well on your cost saving measures.
I suggest you never try to restore a car
I will kindly disregard your recommendation. I bid you well on your cost saving measures.
Quoting BoostedAWD91:
yea the 1g awd control arms have a degree difference in caster which really doesnt matter to most people, for the complete race car guys, im sure someone has some info on how to correct it
Sounds like possibly one of those internet myths. The CHASSIS might have more caster, but I think the bare stock control arms are identical, only the bushing durometer is different between VR4 and 1g.
yea the 1g awd control arms have a degree difference in caster which really doesnt matter to most people, for the complete race car guys, im sure someone has some info on how to correct it
Sounds like possibly one of those internet myths. The CHASSIS might have more caster, but I think the bare stock control arms are identical, only the bushing durometer is different between VR4 and 1g.
Quoting BoostedAWD91:
U can get them from Autozone, they are made my Dorman for around $100. i have a thread posted in the How To section about this. Part number is listed and price
They are about $120 and I should probably just do it. Just really short on funds this year and really need to get this car on the road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
U can get them from Autozone, they are made my Dorman for around $100. i have a thread posted in the How To section about this. Part number is listed and price
They are about $120 and I should probably just do it. Just really short on funds this year and really need to get this car on the road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
AM Autoparts has the Chinese ones for $125/pair with new balljoints and bushings already on them, but they're out of stock on the passenger ones. I plan to buy them for 503 as soon as they're back in stock.
There's another place on Ebay that has them for $79 per side also.
I'm updating the above quote since AM Autoparts finally received passenger side control arms and mine arrived today. I haven't installed them yet, but the arms look great and they are the Taiwan Dorman brand. Not bad for $127 shipped for the pair.
AM Autoparts has the Chinese ones for $125/pair with new balljoints and bushings already on them, but they're out of stock on the passenger ones. I plan to buy them for 503 as soon as they're back in stock.
There's another place on Ebay that has them for $79 per side also.
I'm updating the above quote since AM Autoparts finally received passenger side control arms and mine arrived today. I haven't installed them yet, but the arms look great and they are the Taiwan Dorman brand. Not bad for $127 shipped for the pair.
I put on one about a month ago, Dorman made in Taiwan also.
Observations:
Seemed to be slightly thinner sheet metal than original.
I don't think the they have the stiffener inside them in the area between the ball joint and the crossmember mount. Of course, that is what seems to rust first all the time.
Will they work and last as long as the original? I might hesitate to put them on a rally car, but for the street they should be ok as long as you avoid any massive Chicago-style potholes.
Observations:
Seemed to be slightly thinner sheet metal than original.
I don't think the they have the stiffener inside them in the area between the ball joint and the crossmember mount. Of course, that is what seems to rust first all the time.
Will they work and last as long as the original? I might hesitate to put them on a rally car, but for the street they should be ok as long as you avoid any massive Chicago-style potholes.
turbowop
Well-known member
I just got done installing them. I put them side by side with the stockers and didn't see any large differences. They looked and felt like exact replicas. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
