The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Knuckle and Front Control Arm Removal w/Pictures

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
As requested, my Step by Step Front Control Arm Removal W/PICTURES:

Step 1: Loosen Lug Nuts (21mm Socket) [edit]


Step 2: Jack Up Car and Place on Stands
I'm lazy so I do a whole side at one time
grin.gif



Step 3: Remove Wheels

Step 4: Loosen Hub Nut (1 3/4" Socket)
My brother wasn't around to push the brake for me, so I went with the Screw Driver Method to hold the hub still.


Step 5: Remove Calipers, Brakes and Brackets (17mm Socket)


[ 04-16-2004, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: Charles ]
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Step 6: Using special tool, and with crown nut loosened, press tierod out of knuckle.


Step 7: Unbolt Knuckle From Shock (14mm Socket and Wrench)

Then shake it back and forth until released from shock bracket.

Step 8: Remove ABS Sensor CRAP (12mm Socket)


Step 9: Unbolt ball-joint from knuckle and use SPECIAL TOOL again to press ball-joint off knuckle. (17mm Socket)

Note: Pickle Fork is BAD... Eats Rubber Boots
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Step 10: Remove Sway Bar Link (14mm Socket and Wrench)


now time to play under the car
Step 11: Remove Chassis Bracket for Front Control Arm Rear Bushing (17mm and 14mm Socket)


Step 12: Push A-Arm Down and Unbolt Front Bushing (17mm Socket and Wrench)
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Step 13: Pull Off Control Arm and Show it Who's Boss...

An addition to the Junk Pile

Step 14: Cheat, and buy newer control arms to put back in
 

Perhaps I missed something...but why did you remove the knuckle, brake caliper, brake rotor, etc. if all you wanted was to remove the front control arm?
confused.gif
 

Probably for ease of access since he's not doing it on a lift.

BTW, my car uses a 21mm socket...
wink.gif


Mark
 

quote:Originally posted by Minjin:
Probably for ease of access since he's not doing it on a lift.I've done it on my garage floor with jackstands and a 3.5T jack without removing anything but the control arm itself--it's really not that hard. I can only assume that the rest of the stuff needed to be replaced/removed for some reason?
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Made for quick access, plus it doesn't take much to remove the knuckles, only 2 more bolts and yeah, I wanted to do something to the brakes since I'm putting on some new kicks
wink.gif
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Okay, let's just pretend I meant to do this.
Steps 4-9 are knuckle removal, and the rest is for A-arm removal...
tongue.gif
 

steve

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
My "special tools" was a BFH, but it wasn't able to get the tierod detached from the spindle. I just removed the outer tie rod end from the inner, and pulled the whole thing off.
mad.gif
Oh and my tip of the day, is unbolt the sway bar link before trying to press out the control arm from the knuckle and fighting with it for an hour.
banghead.gif
blush.gif
 

steve

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Yeah, my rotor came of really easy, I put them on just last year. The key to making everything come apart easily is to take things apart frequently
ugh.gif
 

Romanova

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Messages
3,855
Location
Cypress, TX
quote:Originally posted by stevevr4:
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well. I hear you brother. Follow the VFAQ for stuck rotor removal. I beat the f*** out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. Grab a nut and a bolt, take about five minutes and it popped right off.
grin.gif
 

steve

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
quote:Originally posted by Romanova:
quote:Originally posted by stevevr4:
Did your rotor come off the hub easily? Mine is being a royal pain as well. I hear you brother. Follow the VFAQ for stuck rotor removal. I beat the f*** out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't budge. Grab a nut and a bolt, take about five minutes and it popped right off.
grin.gif
I dermeled off 3 lug studs, that did it.
smile.gif
 

quote:Originally posted by Charles:
My brother wasn't around to push the brake for me, so I went with the Screw Driver Method to hold the hub still.If you pop off the center cap you can tighten or loosen the hub nut without a second person ;)Also I may be being hard on you but why was this even posted
confused.gif
that is a very straight forward removal if you ask me.
 

Remember how many people have never done *anything* when they start off with these cars. Lots of stuff that's easy now was hard for me 2 years ago
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I asked if anyone wanted me to do the post, there were a bunch of yeseseses, so I did it... I'm bored now...
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Oh yeah, and I put in Front Control Arm energy suspension bushings and Front Control Arm Noltec chassis bushings. Everyone was giving tips on how to remove the sleeves... Why did you remove the sleeves? Mine went right in (perfect fit) with the sleeves still intact. I did end up using a propane torch and hammer to melt and beat the old bushings out though.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top