Just picked up #735--Plan to resurect it!!

I've never owned a GVR-4, but I stumbled accross what seemed to be a pretty good deal on this one. After looking into it, I figured these things could make one hell of a sleeper! It is completely stock and runs (barely.) It's a '92 Alpine White with 135k. It's a little rough around the edges, but with some TLC it should be nice. Don't know yet how extreme I'll go with it. I'm pretty used to high horsepower cars, but never one that looks this inconspicuous. What kind of numbers are you guys putting down reliably?

I'm sure I'll be visiting this forum alot from now on.

-Shaun

 

[4thStroke]

Alpine White, eh? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Reliable horsepower numbers are all relavent to the overall condition of the car.

I was running arounf at 530whp for a while, then the tranny broke. Now Im back down to 400whp.

You can get the car in the 350whp range fairly cheap and easily with just a 16g and it wont be terrible hard on the car.

But, first things first. Do a compression check, boost leak test, and leakdown test. Get the car running right, replace the worn/dated parts before you start getting too wild. Otherwise, youll be in a world of hurt in no time.

 

My bad....Summit White. Sorry, I'm new to this DSM thing.

 

[NateCrisman]

Agree with 4thStroke.

The most important thing with these car is maintenance. they are 17-18 years old and ususally are well into the 150-200k mile range. With a car this old, It is wise to figure for every dollar you spend in modifications to make it faster, plan to spend another dollar in general maintenance parts.

Obviously you will need to fully assess the condition of the car before going any further, but it seems that when you touch an "area" of the car it will always be a mix of upgrading one part and replacing worn parts around it at the same time.

IE...upgrade turbo usually involves fixing broken bolts, new gaskets, new oil/water lines.

upgrading the fuel pump often involves fixing broken sending unit/tank

upgrading the clutch: maintenance worn hydraulics & fork, CV boots, tie rod ends.

upgrade the cams: maintenance the Tbelt/water pump/Balance shaft area

typicaly you will find nearly every area of the car could use maintenance of some sort unless the car is somehow a low mileage cherry perfect example. Even then...parts age.


But to answer the question: the stock 6bolt 4g63 engine can be pushed past 600whp and live to see another day. There are a few experts who are going 140+mph trap speeds and low 10's on original stock shortblocks. My car has an original oem stock shortblock, but not quite that fast yet.

 

I know I've got to get the car running correctly before I start modding it. I've already diagnosed a leaking water pump and weak clutch. Now is when I have to decide how much I want to put into a clutch. I've had great luck with ACT's in my other cars, but I don't know if I want to put that much money into this one...unless I'm making 350-400 whp. How do these trannies hold up to that kind of power? Are there any safeguards that need to be taken to prolong the life of them? I has a '92 Talon TSi AWD well over a decade ago, and I remember that clutch never launching the car very well. The car only had about 60k on it, so I don't think it was worn out...

 

[4thStroke]

Quoting smcvr4:
Sorry, I'm new to this DSM thing.



Thats 2. One more and you are out of here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

Launching with a stock clutch will kill it very quickly.

If you are looking to push a 16G, the ACT 2600/street disc will do pretty well. Dont be caught up on getting an ACT, there are others that perform as well for less.

With these trannys, you just cant force them to do anything they dont want. With that said, slamming gears can be a challenge if things arent set up correctly. Be regular about changing the fluid and a rebuild wouldnt be a bad idea before the high mileage gets the best of it and something lets go, costing much more than a simple rebuild.

 

[KT]

Quoting smcvr4:
My bad....Summit White. Sorry, I'm new to this DSM thing.



Before someone else flames you, it's not a DSM.

 

[NateCrisman]

For the purpose of pretty much ALL maintenance and modification: It's exactly the same as a DSM. I'm not going to flame you, it's all the same sh*t to me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif Doesn't matter to me at all if it was assembled in Illinois or Jap when just about everything that fails came out of the same part crate. Mode of failure is always exactly the same as a DSM.

 

Thanks Nate, I'll try to get up to speed. I've got to get tires for this car before I can drive it. What size are most of you running on the stock rims? Seems I can only find H rated tires in the stock size. If I keep the car I'll probably do a 5 lug swap, but I want to put some tires on it in the meantime.

 

[Polish]

Welcome aboard, like Nate said ignore all the "It's not a DSM" comments...

They are elitist who think the Galant is better because it was made in Japan. Meanwhile these same people have no issue swapping in DSM 5 lug hugs, 4 bolt rear ends, shifters, springs, 2g MAFs, transmissions, 4ws eliminations, and so on... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[turbowop]

Yeah, but all the good 2g/late 1g parts trickled down from Japanese built Evos. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

 

[curtis]

First things first go to the closest gas station and get about 15 gallons of fresh 93 octane, On the bottom of the tank is a 22 mm (I think) plug unscrew it and drain it out on a pan/towels then pour all 15 gallons on the car and lite the bitch, You'll be better off in 5 years from now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif




Don't say no one warned you , By the way dsm's make good parts cars....thats about it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[NateCrisman]

Quoting smcvr4:
Thanks Nate, I'll try to get up to speed. I've got to get tires for this car before I can drive it. What size are most of you running on the stock rims? Seems I can only find H rated tires in the stock size. If I keep the car I'll probably do a 5 lug swap, but I want to put some tires on it in the meantime.



you can put 205 50 15's on stock wheels. a bit more "sporty" of a size (10mm wider, 5% shorter) that will have more options that aren't H rated passenger tires. MAYBE you could squeeze a 215 50 15 on the wheel, but it's not really going to perform any better since the wheel is so skinny.

 

I think I'll take your advice on those tires Nate. I replaced the fuel filter and wires today. I am trying to overcome a very bad low RMP stumble and rough idle after the car warms up. I thought the car may have some bad gas in it, so I put a can of Sea Foam in it and put a full tank of 93 octane gas. I haven't run it a ton, but the stumble and rough idle are still there. It runs good when cold, but starts acting up once it warms up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Got Nitto 205/55 15's on the way. They will be closest in stock diameter so my speedo won't be off. Still trying to diagnose my off-idle stumble. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

There are so many variables to consider when you're diagnosing the stumbling idle. Incorrectly set timing, poor ignition components, faulty egr valve... start with the simple stuff.

 

Don't know what I'm going to do with the car now. I've discovered alot of rust in the passenger side rocker panel /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. I may just sell the car at this point. I hate dealing with rust. I'm sure it can be fixed, but I'm not wanting to do it. It seems all the rust is located in this sport, but don't know where the cancer has spread /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif. Anyone interested in a deal? What's it worth?

 

[curtis]

I was poking fun up above.
Check all hoses for boost leaks.
Check the throttle body shaft seals.
Check resistance in the idle control and inspect clean out faiv
But what it could be and may fix it. On the Tbody there's a screw on top front of the car corner theres a metal bracket that goes down to the throttle body bolt directly under it this grounds the t-body. I have seen this missing on cars and they had a bad idle problem then replaced it and problem solved.
Another all time favorite to screw up is the wires going to the cylinder head temp switch and the closed circuit switch on the back of the throttle body.
Set idle and timing properly.
Has the cas been adjusted or moved any?
Hows the ecu look?
Hows the main wire from the alternator over to the fuse block look? Is all connections clean, same with main starter cable.
You can buy a set of extra ground wires and a voltage stabilizer kit on ebay or just make up your own wires with heavy speaker wire and ends. The more the better.

We all know it sucks getting one from someone that didn't live under the hood but alot of that idle BS goes away with a little love tossed at the old girl.

As for the rust theres 3 million stock galants in the junkyard waiting to be cut on to save the car.


The first few months with one of these is usually the toughest until all the little bs has been covered. That is until you become a JSB then stepping over parts becomes way worst. My thought are get a wire brush and a 6 pack of autozone brake parts cleaner and start cleaning wires, checking to see if any are broken down, cracked, green corrosion etc. You can spend a day under the hood checking everything and it will save alot of time later.

 

Curtis,

Thats some good stuff. I'll look into those items.

I'm really torn on what to do with the car. I hate rust, but I think it is all isolated into the passenger rocker panel. If so, I'll probably go ahead and fix it. BTW--Jerry says hi.

 

Found a body man willing to take on the repair.....so, looks like the build is back on. I'll keep you guys posted...