dusteddisgusted
New member
Just wanted to say hi, introduce myself and ask a few questions. I've utfse, but unfortunately my search engine skills are far below my wrenching skills.
So one of my friends just purchased a VR4 (#1304). The water pump bearings ended up taking a sh*t, so I offered to fix it for him, given my background (ASE, Ford and Subaru Master Tech). Given the rarity of the Galant VR4s, and the wealth on knowledge available here, I'd though I'd join and help when/where I could, and also hopefully pick up some knowledge specific to these wonderful machines. A bunch has been done (although not as cleanly as I would have done it), but he has a bunch of problems that need to be addressed. I have a couple of questions that I'd like some help/guidance on. The timing belt is oil soaked. I have a t-belt, tensioner, idler, balance shaft belt, and all front seals on order. It has HKS cams, with an adjustable cam pulley (non-indexed) on the intake. How is changing the belt in terms of the camshafts wanting to "flip" on you? beyond the hex slots on the cams, I didn't see anyway of holding the cams stationary when changing the belt (as opposed to to say a integra, where you can drop bolts in some holes to keep them from flipping)? Is there a special tool to use the hex slots? Any tek on a homemade one? Also, I have a super low clutch pedal engagement. I vacuum bled the hydraulic system, but really no improvement. There is an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate installed, but my friend doesn't know the brand. The adjustment for the master (which looks brand new) is all the way to the max. The old owner blamed it on the transmission, but I don't see how anything internal to the transmission is going to affect clutch engagement. (although I could see a bad pilot bearing/bushing causing grinding issues). The new owner is also wanting to rebuild the trans, so if anyone has a line on a rebuild kit (just synchros/blockers and "soft" parts, the gears sound find, and I'd get used if they were bad anyway) and specs for endplay/backlash/etc. would be greatly appreciated. The engine is apparently stroked (I have no idea by who, or with what crank/rods/pistons, but allegedly by the "best" in the bay area), and compression readings are ~190 (within 2% across the board), which, according to my calculations put the compression ratio around 13:1, super high for a forced induction engine, not to mention that the turbo on there is huge. Whoever was into the front axles last didn't torque the axles nuts down right, 'cause when I got to them the nut had ~1/4" of freeplay between it and the bearings, so those are on there way as soon as I can get the damn rotors loose (never-seize people, it does have uses!!! lol). Speaking of, anywhere to get torque specs for this beauty online? I'd prefer maybe a scribd factory manual, but I'd settle for anything reliable. Dealership experience has made me kinda anal about that stuff, as well as allowed me to see the repercussions of improper torque. I'd hate to waste money on some shitty haynes/chilton manual just for torque specs when they're probably wrong anyway. In any case, it seems like there are a lot of friendly and knowledgeable people on here, hopefully I will be able to contribute as much as I take away from here. Sorry for the long winded first post. Unfortunately there will be more to come (as long as my comcast doesn't crap out again). I've fallen in love with this car and plan on picking my own up asap, so I'll be around a while. Thanks in advance.
So one of my friends just purchased a VR4 (#1304). The water pump bearings ended up taking a sh*t, so I offered to fix it for him, given my background (ASE, Ford and Subaru Master Tech). Given the rarity of the Galant VR4s, and the wealth on knowledge available here, I'd though I'd join and help when/where I could, and also hopefully pick up some knowledge specific to these wonderful machines. A bunch has been done (although not as cleanly as I would have done it), but he has a bunch of problems that need to be addressed. I have a couple of questions that I'd like some help/guidance on. The timing belt is oil soaked. I have a t-belt, tensioner, idler, balance shaft belt, and all front seals on order. It has HKS cams, with an adjustable cam pulley (non-indexed) on the intake. How is changing the belt in terms of the camshafts wanting to "flip" on you? beyond the hex slots on the cams, I didn't see anyway of holding the cams stationary when changing the belt (as opposed to to say a integra, where you can drop bolts in some holes to keep them from flipping)? Is there a special tool to use the hex slots? Any tek on a homemade one? Also, I have a super low clutch pedal engagement. I vacuum bled the hydraulic system, but really no improvement. There is an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate installed, but my friend doesn't know the brand. The adjustment for the master (which looks brand new) is all the way to the max. The old owner blamed it on the transmission, but I don't see how anything internal to the transmission is going to affect clutch engagement. (although I could see a bad pilot bearing/bushing causing grinding issues). The new owner is also wanting to rebuild the trans, so if anyone has a line on a rebuild kit (just synchros/blockers and "soft" parts, the gears sound find, and I'd get used if they were bad anyway) and specs for endplay/backlash/etc. would be greatly appreciated. The engine is apparently stroked (I have no idea by who, or with what crank/rods/pistons, but allegedly by the "best" in the bay area), and compression readings are ~190 (within 2% across the board), which, according to my calculations put the compression ratio around 13:1, super high for a forced induction engine, not to mention that the turbo on there is huge. Whoever was into the front axles last didn't torque the axles nuts down right, 'cause when I got to them the nut had ~1/4" of freeplay between it and the bearings, so those are on there way as soon as I can get the damn rotors loose (never-seize people, it does have uses!!! lol). Speaking of, anywhere to get torque specs for this beauty online? I'd prefer maybe a scribd factory manual, but I'd settle for anything reliable. Dealership experience has made me kinda anal about that stuff, as well as allowed me to see the repercussions of improper torque. I'd hate to waste money on some shitty haynes/chilton manual just for torque specs when they're probably wrong anyway. In any case, it seems like there are a lot of friendly and knowledgeable people on here, hopefully I will be able to contribute as much as I take away from here. Sorry for the long winded first post. Unfortunately there will be more to come (as long as my comcast doesn't crap out again). I've fallen in love with this car and plan on picking my own up asap, so I'll be around a while. Thanks in advance.
