The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Inner CV boot

So, I got my cv boots changed by the dealer two months ago. For some reason they did not change the inners as I requested. The passenger inner is now torn and I am 300 miles away from the dealer that did the work. I called them and they basicly said "screw you".

Since there is no quick boot for the inners, I can't do the work myself. With a Michigan winter coming the boot needs to be changed. So do I just take it up the a** and get the work done AGAIN, or is there a Mitsu hate line I can call?

Sorry, needed to vent/get ideas at the same time.
 

ken inn

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
7,529
Location
krum texas
just change out the whole axle. changing the cv boots is really messy, and by the time they tear, the cv joint is probably worn out, too. reman axles are cheap, and way easier to change.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
Get some from www.raxles.com and you won't be disappointed. They aren't as cheap as the POS ones that Autozone or Pep Boys sell but they are 100 times better quality.

John
 

So, is changing the whole axle easier than I thought? Keep in mind all I have up here is a socket set and some screwdrivers.
 

I do it without even taking my struts off of the steering knuckles. Unbolt the strut mounts from the chassis. Remove the 32mm axle nut and cotter pin. Free up the axle with a block of wood and a large persuader. Push the whole strut assembly down and out of the fender well pulling it to the outside of the fender (be careful not to scratch the fender paint). Also not that you must have both strut mounts unbolted for this to work due to the stabilizer bar. Then unbolt the carrier bearing on the driver side intermediate axle(12mm). Next, most books say to wedge a screwdriver in to get the passenger side axle out. I have never had luck with this so i put a flat head screwdriver in and knock the passenger side axle out with a small hammer. Thats about it. And as far as removing the intermediate shaft from the driver side axle. Put the intermediate shaft in a vice and strike the inner axle cup with a hammer to remove it. Make sure to clean the splines and grease them lightly as to insure the new axle slides on easily(you will need to hammer the new one into the axle cup.
 

ken inn

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
7,529
Location
krum texas
to remove the intermediate shaft, you dont need a vise. if you can get a prybar on it while it is on the car, you can snap it loose. if not, and you have the whole assemble removed, just hold it by the jackshaft, with the axle towards the ground, and whack the joint with a hammer. couple of good whacks, and it will pop out, and WATCH FOR TOES!!!!
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top